I plan on removing my intake manifold and egr valve to clean them. I recently had my timing belt done, 9000 miles ago. Is a new intake gasket needed? They are $50.

 

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Number 5, 6, 7, 11, on the link below are usually reusable if you take care when removing / cleaning them. You may or may not be able to reuse the EGR valve gasket, so beware.

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2003...ake-manifold-2

 

That's what I was thinking. Thx for clarifying. Besides carb cleaner and shop towels, what can I use to help clean it? ,

 

A tooth brush will help greatly (combined with carb cleaner) to get the area of the intake manifold where most of the carbon accumulates. It's also gentle enough to not remove the teflon coating (if your intake is equipped with such in this area).

Bottle brushes (pipe cleaners) will work really well for getting the ports all cleared up.

I'm still trying to figure out which part was thought to be $50?

I've cleaned mine twice (once unnecessarily @ 100K) and another @ 200K. the first time I reused and was totally fine; the second time (I was much older and less interested in taking it apart again) so i bought the gaskets. (upper, lower and the wax/paper throttle body gasket). maybe all three of those = $50?

 

If you wanted to get fancy, you could just reuse the existing ones then use the Torque app and a $20 Bluetooth OBDII adapter to monitor your fuel trims. Not a bad idea anyways, just to monitor for any other potential problems.

An air leak will result in a lean A/F mixture which will cause excessive positive fuel trim since additional air will be pulled in after the intake sensors. The ECU will then add fuel to attempt to compensate. But as long as the long-term fuel trim is <5% or so, the seal on the IM is probably fine.

 

I removed the top cover and cleaned everything out as best as i could. The EGR ports were terrible

The right was almost completely blocked.


I only tackled the ports and cover for now. Plan to take the entire manifold out and clean it. To clarify, i need to remove both the front and rear chambers to get a better deep cleaning. If so what so i tourque the bolts to? 9 like the cover?

Also, the rubber gasket, #8 in the parts diagram, is really flimsy.
Its not broken. Just soft. The cover went back on without resistance. Just curious if i should replace it.

 

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#8 will turn into a 'noodle' if it gets soaked with lacquer thinner or acetone. I've had one that survived this exposure and one that did not, which needed replacement.
Upper Cover to IM torque is 8.7lbf-ft. Careful with these, they have been known to snap off while tightening.
Front and rear IM chamber torque is 8.7lbf-ft
IM bolt/nut to runners is 16lbf-ft
TB to IM torque is 16lbf-ft
Make sure to position #11 gasket correctly; otherwise, the engine may not run right.

 

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Thanks for the specs. I'm having a hard time finding a tourque wrench that goes below 20 that isn't $100.
Mine from harbor frieght goes down to 10.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...nch-63880.html

 

Thx I see that now. I feel like an idiot. The wrenches I was looking at were from 20 in lbs and up. New to this and miss read them for ft lbs. Found an online calculator to go back and forth depending on the spec needed.