3.2cls6speedmt

I have a 2003 cl type s 6 speed mt with 117,000 miles on it. After filling up with costco premium gas, the car will not start. This has happened the past couple of times. Once the car is put into neutral and pushed it cranks right up. The car only will not start after a filling up. It starts right up every time otherwise Any ideas/suggestions to resolve this problem?

01acls

When you say not start are you saying will not crank... as in starter not working? Thats why you are push starting?

3.2cls6speedmt

I think starter is fine. I can hear it. It seems like a dead battery. No warning codes on the dashboard. It is just odd that it will not only start after filling up. Car starts after first try all other times.

01acls

I believe your evap system is defective. Your car is flooding after the fill up. Your charcoal canister and or shut off valve is defective, not able to control the gas vapors.

01acls

It could also be a defective Canister Purge Valve. Do this simple test first since it's in the engine bay. Plug off the vacuum line coming from the Evap Canister going into the Canister Purge Valve.

So before you fill the tank just pull the vacuum hose off at the Canister Purge Valve (on the Evap side) and plug up both ends. Fill the tank and start the car. If it starts then the Canister Purge Valve is defective... replace.

3.2cls6speedmt

million dollar question..is it an easy fix? Do you know how much it will cost to fix?

01acls

Lol you're killing me. Doesn't get any easier than this.




01CLS




Purge Valve





Choke off the y hose before fill tank.<br/><br/>Circle is Purge Valve.<br/>Sm circle is mounting tab.

Use a vise grip (tip area only) to choke off the y marked hose... leave a 3/16" gap on the plier.

3.2cls6speedmt

the battery had a bad cell advance auto parts so i took the car into the stealership since the battery was still under warranty. The dealership stated that the battery is testing out fine but went ahead and replaced it. Every 4 years, the cls usually needs a new battery. I am hoping the battery replacement fixes the issue.

3.2cls6speedmt

thank you very much for the elaborate photos. I do appreciate the photos and point exactly where to look for the noted items.

01acls

Or unplug one of the hose on the left side and tape up the holes with duct/masking tape.

Now fill your fill up your tank with gas and try starting the car.

If it starts... the Purge Valve is defective... replace.

When done testing put things back the way they were until you're ready to repair.










To replace just disconnect the two hoses, the connector, and pull up on the P. Valve.

3.2cls6speedmt

do you think it might be my main relay

01acls

It's possible but that would a really weird. The relay only malfunction during/after filling up with gas?

However there was another poster who did have that exact scenario as stated above. Lol

It also could be the ignition switch/wire/pig tail, but same thing... after fill up only?

3.2cls6speedmt

I don't drive many miles in a year less than 10,000. So, a lot of my trips are pretty short. Car is typically garaged and i have owned it for 12 years. It has been warm/hot in my neck of the woods lately. All the times I did fill up with gasoline and encountered no starting was in the middle of the day while it was hot outside.

I have switched out the battery. I thought it might be the battery since it had been 4 years since i had last replaced it. After replacement of the battery. I went to fill up the car with gasoline it wouldn't start. The gas station attendant my car pushed while I turned the ignition switch and it turned on. This was the third time that it would not turn on.

01acls

Q: Does this sound familiar?

1. Car starts cold or cool every single time.
2. Car does not start after a short stop (half hour or so).
Appears even more so with a full tank of gas.
3. Car drives fine all day long.
4. No CEL codes when not starting.
5. Car cranks fast when not starting.
6. Once in a blue moon car starts but idles low after a short stop.

3.2cls6speedmt

1. Yes
2. I get gas at Costco. So it is a ten minute drive to Costco. I turn car off and go shop. I turn on car and drive to the pump. Turn car off. Usually fill up then it turns over but doesn't turn on. Almost like a dead battery. I get attendant to push then while rolling I take parking brake off and turns on no problem.
3. Car drives fine.
4. No codes.
5. Car drives great and starts everytime
6. Car idles fine.

3.2cls6speedmt

Spark plugs have been changed, egr ports cleaned, new air filter, brake fluids flushed, new pads, mt fluid changed within the past 300 miles. Time belt replaced and water pump replaced at 100000 and new clutch.

01acls

7. Car dies while driving.
8. Car does not start ramdomly.
9. Car cranks slower than normal... battery issue.
10. Starter could be defective.
11. TSB below.

01acls

#1-11 which do not fit?

Did you pinch off the purge valve?

3.2cls6speedmt

we are having a mild day. Temps are in the high 70s and high humidity due to over cast. I filled up the car at the same location (costco) and turned on no problem on the first try.

3.2cls6speedmt

I have not pinched the purge valve. I have called four local acura dealers and none of them have the purge valves in stock. Special order item.

I am thinking of just ordering a main relay and purge valve from Genuine Acura Parts For Less | OEM Acura Parts and replacing both of the parts. I plan on keeping on the car for a few more years.

BAGII

I'm leaning more towards main relay. way too common of a failure to forget about; especially when the weather gets hot.

01acls

Purge valve test.

It's easy to do. Takes no longer than you filling up the tank.

1. After you pull in the gas station, just pop the hood and pinch off the vacuum line. You can practice this at home- pinching the line.

2. With the line pinched, fill up the gas tank.

3. Start the car. If the car starts without any issue, then you may of found the problem. Repeat test to confirm, if it start every time without issue then indeed it is the purge valve or evap system.

If replacing the purge valve doesn't correct the problem then it's going to be the evap canister and shut off valve. I would replace the latter together.

4. After the start test, just remove the pinching clamp prior to leaving the gas station.

It's not that hard.


You problem seems to be a ignition switch wire-pig tail or main relay or evap system (heak soak symptoms).

Pick your poison. I believe it's the evap system myself, but all three are contenders. Also, who's to say that it could only be one of the three? It's entirely possible that it could be more than one malfunctioning component.

Replacing the rely and P valve together is a good idea too. Really not that much money.

The ignition switch wire is only like $50 maybe less.