Noticed today that something is weird with transmission shifting. While accelerating, the engine whines (higher RPM than normal) before the delayed and hard shift. Has anyone had this problem? Seems like a tranny issue to me. Fluid is good and always used Acura fluid, mileage around 110K miles & bought new. Thanks for any insight.

 

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Is the 'money light' on indicating the ECU throwing a DTC code(s)?

 

No lights on and checked for codes; no codes.

 

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Well, the only thing I can suggest, initially, depending on your mechanical skill sets, is to perhaps consider removing & cleaning the #6 & #7 solenoid screen filters & changing the #10 ATF filter, especially if it has never been done?

Sensor - Solenoid - 2003 Acura CL 2 Door SPORT KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)


Oil Level Gauge - 2003 Acura CL 2 Door SPORT KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)

The thread link below has a video, compiled by the original poster, showing what he did to remedy the similar issues he had on his 2GTL-S auto transmission; however, he does not take it a step further and change the #10 ATF filter though.

I Cleaned My Transmission Solenoid Filters and my Transmission is Working Again!!! - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

If you decide to go on this mission, I would seriously consider, depending on your budget, purchasing new gaskets & o-ring seals that correspond to the solenoids & ATF filter because after 20 plus years of doing their job they may be not as pliable for proper sealing upon reinstallation ?

Good Luck.

 

Our 2003 CL Type S had the shudder between 2nd & 3rd gear, which sounds maybe different than what you described. Nonetheless, I’ll share what I did and the result anyway in case it’s helpful to you or someone else.

We had actually gotten a new transmission under warranty shortly after buying the vehicle in 2006 with about 40K miles but it eventually developed the shudder as well. We had the transmission serviced a couple of times, but at some dealers at least, that apparently entails nothing more than a 4-qt. drain and fill. I also read somewhere that the issue seems to stem from the valve body passages getting blocked.

The owners manual actually has the fluid exchange process defined as doing that 4-qt. process but three times over to get all of it. Can’t remember if it mentions changing the spin-on filter but I did and it’s been nearly a year and maybe 5K miles, no shudder. Used OEM fluid. Car is at 145K now.

 

If the solenoids were bad, shouldn't there be a light lit or codes? Same as if screens were plugged? But if screens were plugged, wouldn't that be an indication that the tranny is going bad?

 

Thank you Zeti for the diagrams. Tried getting mechanics to remove and clean screens but they all refer me to a transmission repair shop. Called tranny shops and, well, that's another story. Thanks for the info.

to

 

That's why I asked if there were any codes, because if there were the code(s) would hopefully indicate a point as to where to start looking.

Since there are no codes, yet you still notice '....something is weird with transmission shifting' only after 110K miles, this is most likely an early sign to get things checked out regardless of the presence of DTC's.

Once again, with only 110K miles after twenty plus years, if you had regular transmission service intervals performed & the trans. is the factory original, early signs of trouble may be presenting themselves.

If it is caught early, there may not be as high $$$ amount necessary to fix?

BTW, just to clarify, your profile states that you have a 2004 TL red, assuming since you posted in the CL forum you also have an 01-03 Base CL or CL-S?

You may have better luck if you focus on Acura / Honda specialty shops in your area, it will take some work, though you may get lucky.

Since you are in Tampa, which is a reasonably large metro area, the probability is higher to find a knowledgeable A / H specialty shop that knows their sh!t about these cars.

In addition, if you find a few near your locale it may be better to just show up and talk to the mechanic versus trying to explain / talk on the phone to just get dismissed to a trans. shop?

It appears there are a few in Tampa, according to the google search link below:
acura / honda specialty shops; Tampa - Google Search
Good Luck.

 

Thanks Zeti.
I'm bringing the car to a mechanic this morning who is very knowledgeable. From what I told him, he, like you, mentioned the solenoids first thing. Maybe his scanner will pickup some codes as mine didn't. I also have an appointment with a tranny shop in 2 weeks but hope I can get the problem resolved before then. If not, I'll do what you said, go directly to a shop that specializes in Honda.

Never had a red TL, just the green CL purchased new in 2003. I've changed the trans fluid several times but never the filter. If I get it working, I'll change the filter, and from your diagram, looks like it's easily located and easily changed. Maybe foolish, but I like the car and will spend whatever to repair it.

Personally, I think Honda should partially fit the repair bill if repaired by Acura since the trans has a defect but is over the mileage; exact mileage is not 110K like I thought but 103,256 but don't think that would matter. Tranny guy said $3,000 to rebuild with 2 year warranty.

 

On my way to the mechanic, three things happened. The TCS and Engine light came lit, and the D in the drive selector was blinking. Since I left car at mechanic for diagnosis, does these 3 items tell anyone something about the shifting problems without codes? I guess the good thing is that since the lights appeared, there should be codes that the mechanic will see, and hoping all signs are simply a solenoid rather than an entire tranny rebuild.

 

No problem, so you have a (Base model) CL-P with the J32A1 engine versus a Type-S' J32A2.
I was just wondering because your forum profile reflects:


There is another alternative if you have to go with a rebuild / remanufactured transmission. That is a better alternative in the form of a low mile 2006-2007 V6 Honda Accord (non-hybrid) unit from a salvage yard. It will bolt up to your J32A1 block; however; there are a few components, from your OEM trans. unit, that would need to be swapped over to the Accord trans. to complete the transition.

Review the attachment below, it gives you all the info. needed for this option.


That's good, now you'll have some idea of what code(s) the ECU is throwing as a result of the defective shifting.
Make sure to update your thread when you find out.

 

Ok, got car back from general mechanic and he said tranny is problem. En route to the shop, the TCS & Engine light came on and the D5 shift light was blinking. When I drove home, the TCS light was off and the D5 light was not blinking but engine light still on. I hooked up my computer when I got home and it read P1750. Shifting is hard so I drove car in D2 so as to not change gears - no problem driving in D2, just have to keep my speed down.

Anyone having exact symtoms?

 

Zeti, yes I just saw the red TL in my profile - don't understand that as I know it used to show the green CL. Don't see an edit place to click. Plus, moved to Lutz, adjacent to Tampa - actually I'm 500' from Tampa.

Looking for an Acura/Honda specialist. Computer search shows several but when looking at the company site, they work on all vehicles. I'll keep looking.

 

Well, there's your answer.
P1750 reads like the following:


The above is consistently definitive with what the Helms Acura Service manual stipulates below in its troubleshooting for P1750:

It appears a cleaning of the solenoid A & B screen(s) is needed, at a minimum.
This should happen anyway if you have someone pull the A&B assembly for testing to determine whether a new one is needed.
Or, unfortunately, at the maximum, a new trans. may be the only recourse?

Good Luck!

 

Zeta, thank you for the informative information. Based on everything you explained, my feeling is to have the Honda tranny installed if I can get someone to do so. Telling mechanics what to do is like telling the doctor the same, not good. But will try.
If not the Honda transmission, I have a question or rather your opinion on what you would do if you had a mechanic do the work. If your car showed the same symptoms, same diagnostic code, knowing the CLs transmission history and knowing that the cost of the two valves plus install would be around $950 versus a rebuild costing $3000 - would your gut tell you to take a chance and replace the two valves or rebuild the transmission? The tranny will have a 2 year warranty and I have 103K miles on the car. What would you do?
Lastly, do you know whether a rebuild usually comes with new valves/solenoids?

 

I thought that the solenoid A & B consisted of two parts. But looking at the diagram, appears that it's one part. So installed price if one part would be around $700. Looks like it's on top of the engine yet the instructions note transmission hangar that I would think be located elsewhere.

 

That’s not worth it IMO… spend the 2-3K and drop in a AV6 trans and it will outlast the car.

 

Skip to step 6, replace transmission. Except do the AV6 like others suggested.

 

Awakened, I'm a DIY'er, so my mind set is different when it pertains to car repairs & having / paying someone else do the work, if it is something I can do at my leisure.

Therefore, the command decision is ultimately yours and depends on what you want to do / immediate car needs / personal finances et al, get what I'm saying?

With that said, if / when my 2003 automatic CL-S, who's OEM transmission was already rebuilt by the previous owner presented with the same issues you have currently, I would do the following:

1) Purchase all associated gaskets & o-ring seals for the A&B & the lower C solenoid assembly / ATF filter / three quarts of Aisin DW-1 ATF.
Because, while 'I'm there', in that general area fiddling with the A&B&C solenoid assemblies, I'm going to change the filter since it is, well, right there.

2) Bring the car up to operating temperature, place it on level ground, usually in my garage, drain the ATF in preparation for a fluid change.

3) Perform the solenoid removal / cleaning / testing / reinstall procedure outlined in the video on the link I supplied above.
a. If the solenoid testing ohm's was not within spec, as shown on the video, I'd probably stop and 'roll the dice' (my labor / time is free for the most part ) for a new OEM solenoid(s). Hopefully, only the $382.13 A&B because that is what the P1750 code is initially pointing to.

4) Add the new ATF fluid and monitor the cars transmission performance to see if any difference has been achieved.
This may take some time, who knows, a day or two, or a week.

Ultimately, if the same shifting issues resurfaced down the road, supported with the same P1750 code, even though a new OEM solenoid was installed, I'd probably 'write-off' the trans., as having 'crapped the bed', and the supply / solenoid sunk costs & be done with it.

Then I'd start the next phase, which is researching car-part.com for the best closest low mile, low cost AV6 transmission and prepare for that eventual swap to keep the car from the crusher.

Since I'm not privy to the particulars of the shop who is offering you the terms you mention above, I can't say.
I can reasonably state that if you or the shop you employ went with a true 'remanufactured' 2001-2003 CL-P (check the fitment tab at the bottom) transmission, like the one below, it would most likely have, for the money spent, functioning '...valves/solenoids...' as part of the reman. test process.

Value Automatic Transmission Assembly GPTTNN29840136AA - Go Powertrain LLC (go-powertrain.com)

 

Zeta,
I decided as a first step, to remove the Shift Solenoid A&B as shown in the diagram and explained in the DTC Troubleshooting. Thought I would take the chance and replace it as my last resort before rebuild/replacement of trans if I have access to remove it. The troubleshooting steps were quite clear for P1750; if not solenoid, then trans. However, I can't locate the solenoid as I thought from the diagram that it's located on the top area of engine. I removed the plastic cover (4 screws) but nothing except a silver plate held by 8 10mm screws. Is the solenoid under that silver plate?

 

My best suggestion is to repeatedly / thoroughly review the video below, by the provided OP thread, to familiarize yourself with what is at hand in order to cognizantly determine IF this is something you want to attempt.

If you feel it is beyond your scope, your time may be better spent finding the A/H specialty shop or a willing transmission shop to complete.


Everything you need to know is in the video. He shows both solenoid locations on his computer, early in the video @3:30, and physically walks you through component removal of all items in order to get to the solenoid area as the video progresses.

In addition, he talks about & performs the ATF filter change in the very informative video below.
Check out his YT channel videos, even though he has a four door 2G TL-S your car is basically the slimmed down lower performance two door version; therefore, many will apply to the CL as well.

 

Zeta,
Excellent video. Removed everything in video except I'm having difficulty removing the connectors from the solenoid and the two gray connectors that in the way of one nut. I was going to buy the solenoid but the test for ohms seems easy to test. Since my P1750 code focuses on the AB solenoid, not sure whether to tackle the other far below or call a mobile mechanic if you think that a good idea to do. So I'll take a break and try again. Thanks for the video, a big help.

 

I'm in the process of removing my A/T Linear Solenoid Assembly and stuck by the gray electrical connector attached to a bracket just above a screw for the solenoid, so I need to remove it from the bracket. There is a clip to seemingly depress on the connector to allow sliding it off the bracket but the connector will not budge. Any suggestions about removing this connector as it's the last thing to remove for access to the solenoid - I'm stuck. Here is a picture of the connector.

 

Problem solved. Rather than pushing down on connector latch, I needed to lift the connector latch.

 

this is correct.

 

I've reviewed the posts and I see that there is a discrepancy of testing the solenoid with an ohms meter. If anyone know where to place the wires on terminals or terminals along with body, and how to test function with 12v power to hear the click sound. The photo below is from a 2003 CL.

 

The forum where you originally posted, the AcuraZine User Help, Support & Suggestions Area , is meant for problems, comments, and suggestions for the website itself, so I moved your thread to the car specific forum applicable to your vehicle.

This was explained in the sticky thread at the top of that forum, or click here if you can't find it, which will explain why you shouldn't have posted your thread there.

 

ETCG shows how to test the A/B solenoid starting @6:07 minutes:

 

Aren't the plugs just a 2 pin?

 

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It appears that ETCG just puts power & ground to them to make it click.

 

Yup, exactly that. I use a Ryobi battery now. Easier than lugging a heavy ass car battery everywhere. Also works for powering cars at the junkyard for a short time. Used it to roll down a window once lol.

 

I agree & that's an innovative idea!
When time permits, can you take a picture of your set-up?
I have a harbor freight earthquake xt lithium cell for their impact wrench, maybe I can fab something up similar.

 

I can take one when I can find the motivation to get up off my ass and go to my cold snowed in garage.

It depends on the battery type and how the pins are exposed. The Ryobi batteries are easier, because it has the stick portion that sits up, like feeding a magazine into a handgun (always satisfying, especially double tapping it). Since the pins are at the top of the stack, I wrap electrical tape around the top, covering the pins. It leaves a small enough gap to fit the end of a wire into pin/tape and hold it, depending on the gauge and if you fold it over. Do it for the negative & positive sides, and boom, you're good. Just be sure not to touch each end of the wires, unless you want to get zapped or create a spark.

I did this at the junkyard. Connected the wires to the battery harness, and they had the key zip tied to the steering wheel. Broke the zip tie, put the key in, turned it, and dash lit up, and then I rolled down the window, EZ-PZ. I don't imagine it'd have enough cranking power, at least not for long, but some one told me to try this trick before to do compression tests on potential motors to pull. Said the battery wouldn't last long, but enough to do a 4 cylinder engine. Might need either a big battery or two for a 6 cylinder. Definitely will depend on the battery type. You'd probably have an easier time just hot wiring the starter directly rather than wasting juice on the dash lights and all the other electrical components.

I specifically stick to using my shittiest Ryobi battery; a 2AH 18V. I don't care if it breaks. My 5AHs on the other hand..

 

'snow', hehe.

I may just use something like the 'male' connector below to insert into the + & - slots on my battery and alligator clips on the other?

Not sure if it is that easy, though?
x2 about being mindful of crossing connections.

 

Oh yeah, that'd certainly work. Could also just push the wire in directly. It'll pinch 'em down and hold em. Just maybe wrap some electrical tape to secure things.

I usually tap the two wires quickly to check and make sure it's at least set up correctly. Haven't touched them by mistake yet. Did accidently touch both terminals when removing the cables off the battery recently. Got a quick zap as I was removing them. Thankfully, the battery was pretty dead, so I barely noticed it. Gotta be more careful next time.

 

My transmission finally became problematic due to shifting issues after 20 years and 103K miles. Wanted to change over to the Accord transmission but couldn't locate anybody to do so, so ended up going with rebuilding it. After a couple of days, I was told everything looked fine inside and nothing more was needed except the rebuild. A couple of days later, I was told that the housing needed to be replaced due to a bearing going bad and damaging the housing. The rebuild price included all parts including the housing. Has anyone ever heard that the housing needed replacement due to a bearing going bad and damaging the housing? Is this possible or am I being paranoid? Thanks,

 

Depending on whether it is sourced as a new OEM torque converter case or transmission case set, that can jack up the price roughly $613 to $1,048.
Torque Converter Housing - 2002 Acura CL 2 Door PREM KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)
Transmission Housing - 2002 Acura CL 2 Door PREM KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)

 

Is there diagrams of the inside transmission available? Thanks,

 

Chapter 14 of service manual has some.

 

Finally got my 2003 CL car back after complete rebuild of transmission. Before rebuild, had one error code and had extremely hard & delayed shifting, engine & TCS lights on and D5 blicking.
Picked up car Wednesday with new rebuild and ran a few short errands and ran great with smooth shifting, finally. Then took it for an extended ride on highway, about 30 min. During the ride, the engine light and TCS lights came on. When I came to a stop sign and accelerated, noticed the car was sluggish as it started in a higher gear rather than 1st gear. I shifted into 1st gear and D5 light started blinking.

After getting to destination, and 5 hours later en route home and tranny cold, the tranny ran perfectly except the engine light was still on. After about 30 minutes, TCS light came on. The D5 blinking light hadn't come on yet as I didn't shift into 1st gear.

When getting home, checked for codes and got two different codes from last time. A P0743 Torque Converter Electrical code, and P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical code. I tend to think that all the issues are related to solenoids and maybe don't operate well when tranny is hot. Anybody experience anything similar or have suggestions?

Funny thing is that car shifts and runs fine when cold but lights and shifting issues when tranny is hot. Will bring the car back to transmission place Monday but does anybody have any ideas what the isssue can be???