hermtm2

Hello.
I have a 01 CL-P which has 133k on it. I took my car to a shop to get a wheel alignment after replaced all four tires.

The mechanic told me that the rear control arm needs to be replaced to both sides. There is no after-market part, so it has to be OEM.

Here is the picture from Acura part catalog. I have done with a couple of projects like brakes, timimg belt, and valve adjustment by myself. Is it worth to DIY or take it to the shop?

hermtm2

Sorry I made a mistake on the picture. The parts should be upper ones such as#12, 13, 18, 19, 29, and 30.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

So easy your going to laugh about even asking.
If using stock replacements 15 minutes you should be done per side.
Using adjustable you will need to get it lined up but,you should be able to get it very close.

hermtm2

The machenic told me approximately 2 hours to be done.

What does "Using adjustable" mean? Could you explain a little more detail?

Thanks.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Adjustable arms will have adjusting nuts on the ends
stock arms will not.

hermtm2

Thanks.

hermtm2

I 've got the parts at the last night and found out the instruction for the job. Can you guys explain little more detail under the bold sentence? What is the knuckle and when should I tighten all bolts?

Install all the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and nuts, then place a jack under the knuckle, and raise the suspension to load it with the vechicle weight before fully tightening bolts and nuts to specification.


Thanks.

nspec_ya4

iTrader: (38)

if ur replacing #12 then u dont have to do that. just tighten the bolts, the height of the car doesnt matter.

why did he said u have to change them? the bushing wore out?

hermtm2

The mechanic showed me that the rear tires were worn out irregularly. After replacing the tires, he told the busing is bad, the new tire will be worn out like before if control arms are not replaced.

hermtm2

I cannot get the bolt out on the picture. I hammered it for 10 mins but it dosen't move at all. Anyidea????

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Cut it.

hermtm2

I can cut the front part but what about the back side?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Use a sawzall and cut between the bracket and the arm on both sides. That way, the only part of the seized bolt is in the arm and you can remove the arm.

Replace it with either another OEM bolt or a grade 10 SS bolt and nut.

hermtm2

I don't have a sawzill, so there is no chioce...

Thanks anyway.

hermtm2

I changed my mide to buy the sawzall and then get it done.
Here is a question.
The one I saw at walmart was a skil brand less than $50 and 8.5 amp. Is it enough for the job? I don't want to buy a cheap one. Which brand are you going to recommand and how much amp do I need for the general use?


Thanks.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I have no idea what the specs on mine are. Just make sure you use a good blade made for metal.

ThomWV

I don't think you can say you don't want a cheap one and then go to Wal Mart to find one, be it a Sawzall or any other product. If you want a killer Sawzall go buy a big red one by Milwaukee, they invented the things and you will have no problem cutting anything that gets in your way with it. The Chinese made junk they sell at Wal Mart will work for a while and then die on you. With 8.5 amps the thing will cut that bolt easily enough though, I'd just hate to see you spend fifty bucks for a modern garbage tool and the Skil brand of tools has become just that ... garbage.

celynka

OMG... didn't you state you've done timing belt??? This thing is a basic stuff, comparing to TB!!!. That thing is rusted inside bushing tube. You wont be able to get it out without cutting. Cut in between. Put some graphite grease on the bolt when you re-install and you wont ever have problem to unbolt it in the future!

hermtm2

OMG, too. I had done this project about 1 years ago. Eventually I bought a 13 amp Milwaukee sawzall at a home depot. It cut through everything but took me a lot of time to be done. Anyway I thought it was more difficult than the timing belt project. The T-belt wasn't that bad once the crank pulley was taken off from the engine.

The most difficult part of T-belt job was to align the camshaft and crank shaft to the TDC points with the new belt. However if you carefully follow the DIY on this forum, it won't be that bad.


Anyway I sold my CL on this August then I got a 03 Infiniti M45. It is a huge crap. Especially the brakes and handling were terrible compared with the CL. No feedback from brakes, steering wheel, or even a fuel gauge.... Not at all...I really miss my old Acura.