Help Please!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Des Moines, Ia
Help Please!!
ok, I know this belongs in A/V, but it takes so long for anyone to respond over there it seems, and everyone here has been quick to help me out...
Ok so I tore apart my whoe center console and dashboard to install my new HU. I was told (and read on here) that if I got a Metra wiring harness, that it would integrate my bose amp and speakers to work with my new HU as long as I didnt change the speakers. I have it all hooked up and the unit comes on, plays CDs and DVD's, but No Sound! Do I need to run a remote wire to the bose amp? If anyone knows about this I would realllllly appreciate some info so I can put my baby back together!!
Thank You!!
Ok so I tore apart my whoe center console and dashboard to install my new HU. I was told (and read on here) that if I got a Metra wiring harness, that it would integrate my bose amp and speakers to work with my new HU as long as I didnt change the speakers. I have it all hooked up and the unit comes on, plays CDs and DVD's, but No Sound! Do I need to run a remote wire to the bose amp? If anyone knows about this I would realllllly appreciate some info so I can put my baby back together!!
Thank You!!
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Help Please!! Bose bypass aftermarket CD Player
Hey Lando,
I just went through the EXACT same thing. It seems that many of the audio installers forget to tell you that the Metra wiring harness only gets you half-way there. The Bose amplifier is mounted in the passenger-side trunk (next to the jack). There are two solutions to resolve this problem: 1. buy a $100 converter that will intergrate the new CD Player with the Bose amp (at least according to my local audio shop) or 2. bypass the Bose amp and use the headunit amplifier (what I chose to do). It can be a hassle either way. I could not find any information about how to bypass the Bose amp, so I did it all the hard way and did all of my own research. My car is an 01 3.2CL Type S with Bose 6 disc CD changer in-dash. These wires are all at the plug that goes into the Bose amp in the truck. You will have to splice or cut the wires to bypass the Bose amp. I did not right down the positive & negative of the speaker wires from the headunit but you can find that out by looking at the back of the CD player wiring harness. You can also tell which wires are going OUT to the speakers and which wires are coming from the headunit if you pull back the split loom and tape. The two harnesses are split into two different groups. I am not 100% sure which wires are positive & negative on the speakers themselves, so I did not state it below.
brown w/ black strip - to right front speaker (tweeter and mid-range)
brown w/ white strip - to right rear speaker
red w/ green strip - to right front (tweeter and mid-range)
red w/ yellow strip - to right rear speaker
white w/ yellow
black
light green
yellow w/ white strip
black - right rear (-) from HU
teal blue - right rear (+) from HU
yellow - right front from HU
brown - right front from HU
green - left rear (-) from HU
red - left rear (+) from HU
orange - left front from HU
light yellow - left front from HU
blue w/ yellow strip - to left rear speaker
gray w/ black strip - to left front speaker
gray w/ white - to left rear speaker
blue w/ green - to left front speaker
I hope that this helps. Good luck.
Blake
I just went through the EXACT same thing. It seems that many of the audio installers forget to tell you that the Metra wiring harness only gets you half-way there. The Bose amplifier is mounted in the passenger-side trunk (next to the jack). There are two solutions to resolve this problem: 1. buy a $100 converter that will intergrate the new CD Player with the Bose amp (at least according to my local audio shop) or 2. bypass the Bose amp and use the headunit amplifier (what I chose to do). It can be a hassle either way. I could not find any information about how to bypass the Bose amp, so I did it all the hard way and did all of my own research. My car is an 01 3.2CL Type S with Bose 6 disc CD changer in-dash. These wires are all at the plug that goes into the Bose amp in the truck. You will have to splice or cut the wires to bypass the Bose amp. I did not right down the positive & negative of the speaker wires from the headunit but you can find that out by looking at the back of the CD player wiring harness. You can also tell which wires are going OUT to the speakers and which wires are coming from the headunit if you pull back the split loom and tape. The two harnesses are split into two different groups. I am not 100% sure which wires are positive & negative on the speakers themselves, so I did not state it below.
brown w/ black strip - to right front speaker (tweeter and mid-range)
brown w/ white strip - to right rear speaker
red w/ green strip - to right front (tweeter and mid-range)
red w/ yellow strip - to right rear speaker
white w/ yellow
black
light green
yellow w/ white strip
black - right rear (-) from HU
teal blue - right rear (+) from HU
yellow - right front from HU
brown - right front from HU
green - left rear (-) from HU
red - left rear (+) from HU
orange - left front from HU
light yellow - left front from HU
blue w/ yellow strip - to left rear speaker
gray w/ black strip - to left front speaker
gray w/ white - to left rear speaker
blue w/ green - to left front speaker
I hope that this helps. Good luck.
Blake
CLeanest in its CLass
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: San Pedro
you could go through that whole mess or just look at your wiring harness and see theres one wiring coming from your car harness that has no wire coming from your metra harness, i think it might either say its your amp remote or ant remote split your amp remote wire coming from your HU to both those remote wires and your unit will run through the Bose amp. thats how i have mine hooked up for now and its worked great for the past 3 1/2 years.