Driver side axle separation
#1
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Driver side axle separation
I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the driver side inboard axle separated from the CLS-6 differential.
The biggest issue is finding the appropriate tool to get the leverage I need at the shaft to free the set ring. I need a pry bar that is thin/angled/deep enough to get into this restricted area to pop this SOB out.
Anyone who has performed this task before knows how tight it is to work in the area.
Any suggestions on an approach or tool to use would be helpful.
Thanks!
The biggest issue is finding the appropriate tool to get the leverage I need at the shaft to free the set ring. I need a pry bar that is thin/angled/deep enough to get into this restricted area to pop this SOB out.
Anyone who has performed this task before knows how tight it is to work in the area.
Any suggestions on an approach or tool to use would be helpful.
Thanks!
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (10)
I've replaced axles on a car before and is it is a real PITB. Try 2 people and see if theres access from the top, you probably have to remove the airbox hoses. Someone prys from the top and someone from the bottom.
If you have a harbor freight nearby, they have a good selection of pry bars in different sizes.
If you have a harbor freight nearby, they have a good selection of pry bars in different sizes.
#3
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Gently wiggle the joint back and forth. Then with a pry bar, gently pop it out. Should come right out.
I use a pickle fork to do it. Theres not much leverage on it, but there shouldnt have to be.
I use a pickle fork to do it. Theres not much leverage on it, but there shouldnt have to be.
#4
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the responses.
There is no way to pry from the top on the driver side or passenger side, all the work has to be done from under the car. It is mind numbing to see just how little room there is on the drivers side when the time comes to pry.
I was able to find an angled 12" prybar at harbor freight that almost worked. I had to dremel some of the thickness away along the angled portion because it was still to thick to fit between the inboard CV case and the differential. After shaving down the pry bar it fit all the way to the shaft. This allowed all of the leverage to be applied at the shaft rather then the edge of the CV case and the joint popped out with no problem. That was my biggest problem, all of the tools I had available would only apply force at the outer edge of the inboard CV case (either because they were to thick and/or they did not have a suitable angle) which just was not getting the job done. Once the force was centered at the shaft with the dremeled pry bar, the SOB popped out with ease.
It was a little extra work; however, now I have a tool specific for the job. You live and you learn.
I was surprised at how much play the shaft had while it was still connected within the differential. I think, initially, when I used the first pry bar I had available, that it was the play that caused binding at the set clip as I applied force at the edge of the CV joint case. I folded up some paper to jam in between the differential at the 10 o'clock position to snug up the play as I pried at the 4 o'clock position with the modified pry bar now centered at the shaft and it freed it, thank god.
The Raxles axles looked like real high quality stuff. We'll see how well they perform in the months to come. They were $319 shipped with sales tax.
It was a little extra work; however, now I have a tool specific for the job. You live and you learn.
The Raxles axles looked like real high quality stuff. We'll see how well they perform in the months to come. They were $319 shipped with sales tax.
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