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I have a 2001 TL-S and sometimes when starting the car my VSA and check engine light will be on, as well as the triangular warning sign. Driving / shifting seems rough and it will make weird noises in idle. Driving for a bit and turning off the car temporarily fixes it but check engine stays on for a little while, until that ends up going off too. On one code scan and then from a mechanic I've been told its the ECM (code P1607). Any insight on this or tips?
Sounds like the ECU/PCM is bad. It's the car's brain; the computer. I had one go bad on me before. It simply kept the CEL on, never went away no matter how many times I removed it, and it never displayed a code for it.
Funny enough, my friend's Del Sol just blew a capacitor on it's ECU as well. However, it took the board with it because it exposed the traces.
Did you smell anything burnt when this first started? The capacitor in my friend's ECU smelled like burnt plastic with a hint of a fish smell.
Don't forget that when replacing the ECU, you'll need to have it programmed to your key. I paid $100 for an automotive locksmith to program mine. Took less than a minute.
never smelled anything burning that i've noticed, but have been told twice its a bad ECM, I believe it makes the VSA fail because the lights stay on and the button becomes non usable to enable or disable it.
I need to part match the exact one with mine so I'm gonna have to take off some side panels to figure it out, not sure if that will automatically work with mine but I've seen loads of them on ebay. Also was told that since I'm in California, I need to have a California ECM, and it can't be a federal ECM or I won't pass smog in future, since California regulations are weird. Don't know how to figure out whether its a California one yet, maybe just based on exact part #?
Don't forget that when replacing the ECU, you'll need to have it programmed to your key. I paid $100 for an automotive locksmith to program mine. Took less than a minute.
I've gone through a decent amount of research, and the most cost friendly seems to be to shoot my shot with a parted out ecm, and then have a Honda dealership install and reprogram it (if needed) will prob run me around 200-250 rather than the alternative of brand new ones or rebuilt ones for 1000-2000+, just not in the budget at all.
I used this thread back then to figure out which ECU I needed. I know there is an updated version that changes the way the Transmission shifts to help keep the clutch packs from burning out, but not sure which one.
Don't waste your time with a dealership. They wanted to hold my car for 3 days, charge me to swap the ECU, and charge me $500 to program it. They said it would take more than 2 hours to program it, which is absolute BS. Look for an automotive locksmith near you. Mine came to me in a van. Swap the ECU yourself before they get there, and it'll take them one minute to program your keys. After how long the dealership quoted me, I was shocked with how quickly they did it.
All you have to do to remove the ECU is pull the carpet back from the corner underneath the steering wheel and glove box. It'll be in-between the console at the very back. Should be three or four plugs, 2 or 3 on the passenger, one on the driver side; disconnect them. Then there should be two 10mm bolts holding it in place; remove those. It'll slide out from the side. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes tops to do yourself.
I used this thread back then to figure out which ECU I needed. I know there is an updated version that changes the way the Transmission shifts to help keep the clutch packs from burning out, but not sure which one.
Don't waste your time with a dealership. They wanted to hold my car for 3 days, charge me to swap the ECU, and charge me $500 to program it. They said it would take more than 2 hours to program it, which is absolute BS. Look for an automotive locksmith near you. Mine came to me in a van. Swap the ECU yourself before they get there, and it'll take them one minute to program your keys. After how long the dealership quoted me, I was shocked with how quickly they did it.
All you have to do to remove the ECU is pull the carpet back from the corner underneath the steering wheel and glove box. It'll be in-between the console at the very back. Should be three or four plugs, 2 or 3 on the passenger, one on the driver side; disconnect them. Then there should be two 10mm bolts holding it in place; remove those. It'll slide out from the side. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes tops to do yourself.
Thank you for this information, I am currently contacting automotive lock smiths around me, but most have already said they are unable to do it. On the forum link you sent it says PCM's but the part numbers I see match ECM's I've seen online (ebay). Is that the right place to be looking for me? Also when I take it out I'm assuming Ill need to take off both side panels that connect to transmission and cupholders as well as trim, etc correct?
Thank you for this information, I am currently contacting automotive lock smiths around me, but most have already said they are unable to do it. On the forum link you sent it says PCM's but the part numbers I see match ECM's I've seen online (ebay). Is that the right place to be looking for me? Also when I take it out I'm assuming Ill need to take off both side panels that connect to transmission and cupholders as well as trim, etc correct?
ECU/PCM/ECM, it's all the same. As long as it's a square metal box, it's it.
Any PCM model # from that list will work as long as it says it's for a CL Type S; year doesn't matter, but go newer if you can. I don't think the California models make a difference, but don't hold me to it because I'm not sure.
You don't need to remove any of the trim, dash, or cupholders. The PCM is able to be accessed through pulling the corner of the carpet out towards you.
I think it took me a couple of calls until I found some one who could do it.
Last edited by Thefireball; Jun 28, 2022 at 08:01 PM.
ECU/PCM/ECM, it's all the same. As long as it's a square metal box, it's it.
Any PCM model # from that list will work as long as it says it's for a CL Type S; year doesn't matter, but go newer if you can. I don't think the California models make a difference, but don't hold me to it because I'm not sure.
You don't need to remove any of the trim, dash, or cupholders. The PCM is able to be accessed through pulling the corner of the carpet out towards you.
I think it took me a couple of calls until I found some one who could do it.
Ok thank you Ill look into finding it as soon as I get a chance and update with what I find. I made the mistake before of taking off the panels by the glovebox and ended up finding the VSA box. Mechanic was telling me it had to be a Cali version just because of SMOG and weird regulations here so I'll have to look more into it. Yeah I've been through 5 calls and couldn't find anyone yet, I'll have to either dig deeper or have to deal w the dealership, hopefully the one here is better they said $180 for installation and reprograming I believe.
Ok thank you Ill look into finding it as soon as I get a chance and update with what I find. I made the mistake before of taking off the panels by the glovebox and ended up finding the VSA box. Mechanic was telling me it had to be a Cali version just because of SMOG and weird regulations here so I'll have to look more into it. Yeah I've been through 5 calls and couldn't find anyone yet, I'll have to either dig deeper or have to deal w the dealership, hopefully the one here is better they said $180 for installation and reprograming I believe.
Laws might be different in California regarding programming keys, who knows. It'll be cheaper to go that route if you can though.
Also was told that since I'm in California, I need to have a California ECM, and it can't be a federal ECM or I won't pass smog in future, since California regulations are weird. Don't know how to figure out whether its a California one yet, maybe just based on exact part #?
Go to this Acura vendor and input the VIN for your car to get the most accurate ECU part # result: Genuine OEM Acura Parts and Accessories Online - Acura Parts Warehouse
In the 'Part Fitment' area below there is an 'Emission&Transmission' informational "?", press on that and it will show what's depicted below:
It appears that the 2001 CL-S requires ECU 37820-PGE-A62, which is only reflected for the KA_49 States Emission, is listed, as far as I can see?
In putting your VIN should confirm wheather you need a 'KL' Cali ECU, if it's even available for your model year?
Go to this Acura vendor and input the VIN for your car to get the most accurate ECU part # result: Genuine OEM Acura Parts and Accessories Online - Acura Parts Warehouse
In the 'Part Fitment' area below there is an 'Emission&Transmission' informational "?", press on that and it will show what's depicted below:
It appears that the 2001 CL-S requires ECU 37820-PGE-A62, which is only reflected for the KA_49 States Emission, is listed, as far as I can see?
In putting your VIN should confirm wheather you need a 'KL' Cali ECU, if it's even available for your model year?
thats odd but i'll check it out, i got the car smogged myself luckily when the check engine was off so whatever is in there rn must be ok to pass
Go to this Acura vendor and input the VIN for your car to get the most accurate ECU part # result: Genuine OEM Acura Parts and Accessories Online - Acura Parts Warehouse
In the 'Part Fitment' area below there is an 'Emission&Transmission' informational "?", press on that and it will show what's depicted below:
It appears that the 2001 CL-S requires ECU 37820-PGE-A62, which is only reflected for the KA_49 States Emission, is listed, as far as I can see?
In putting your VIN should confirm wheather you need a 'KL' Cali ECU, if it's even available for your model year?
it looks like with my VIN entered the same ECU is coming up, is that the one I should look for used or should I try and find one thats more updated as fireball was saying?
There is a $50 one in post #4.
However, it is a 37820-PGE-A58.
Maybe the 37820-PGE-A62 is the updated one?
The one u sent is an A62, and on that website it shows an A62 for mine as well, maybe they factored in the new updated one already? Ill have to just see whats in my car. Thank you for all the help!
The one u sent is an A62, and on that website it shows an A62 for mine as well, maybe they factored in the new updated one already? Ill have to just see whats in my car. Thank you for all the help!
Nvm label on box does say a58, so maybe 62 is the updated again I need to just find the label of mine first, I think either same or updated one should be fine as long as it works tbh.
The one in may link for $50 is from a 2001 Red CL-S, as shown in the pictures on the website. It's a 37820-PGE-A58 ECU.
The latest 37820-PGE-A62 has the following fitments:
So, if you find a similarly priced 37820-PGE-A62 it should work, per the fitment table above.
The one u sent is an A62, and on that website it shows an A62 for mine as well, maybe they factored in the new updated one already? Ill have to just see whats in my car. Thank you for all the help!
No, it's an A58 in the pictures supplied on the webpage:
What does the California emissions accepted ECU do differently from a regular one? Most of the emissions devices on the car are mechanical, no? As long as you have the EGR intact & cleaned, a working catalytic converter, and quiet mufflers, what more could the ECU actually do compared to a regular CL-S?
The worst that I could think of happening is a CEL due to a non California compliant ECU, but that sounds farfetched. It's a gamble on what you want to do. Be safe and get a California emissions compliant ECU, or try for a regular CL-S ECU. I might have a spare one that I can send you if you'd want to try, but I'd need to check and see what I have.
I did some reasearch on the web and I found some interesting info on Honda ULEV engines. Basically the major difference between LEV and ULEV is a fast warm up catalytic converter and some software changes to the air fuel mixture, mainly during cold start. The processing power of the engine computer, a 32-bit RISC processor, allows for real fast calculations based on sensor inputs and catalytic converter temperature. So, IMHO, after the engine has warmed up there should be no difference between the LEV and ULEV engine horsepower. Of course the exact details are probably a Honda design secret. Honda also has a SULEV (super ultra low emmission vehicle) engine in the 4-cylinder Accord. This will just need a VTEC engine and a 2 stage catalytic converter. Calif. will start using the SULEV standard in the 2004 model year. ------------------2001 TL wo NavLaguna green
Sounds like the only difference is when you first start the car when the engine's cold. I think you could get away with a regular ECU. By the time you get to the emissions testing facility, your car would already be warmed up, especially if you're waiting in line. But are you willing to find out; again, a gamble.
Glad I don't have to sit in line in two places anymore. We finally got rid of emissions testing here in TN. Don't know if I want to get rid of my cat though. Flames & pops would be cool, but I don't want my exhaust sounding like crap.
What does the California emissions accepted ECU do differently from a regular one? Most of the emissions devices on the car are mechanical, no? As long as you have the EGR intact & cleaned, a working catalytic converter, and quiet mufflers, what more could the ECU actually do compared to a regular CL-S?
The worst that I could think of happening is a CEL due to a non California compliant ECU, but that sounds farfetched. It's a gamble on what you want to do. Be safe and get a California emissions compliant ECU, or try for a regular CL-S ECU. I might have a spare one that I can send you if you'd want to try, but I'd need to check and see what I have.
yeah idk but thats just what I've heard from multiple places, so rather go with the safest option rather than deal w the trouble later
this is what I found after pulling up the carpet on the front passenger side, does this mean I need a different ecu than thought before? Is this even the right sticker? I’m confused on where to go from here.
this is what I found after pulling up the carpet on the front passenger side, does this mean I need a different ecu than thought before? Is this even the right sticker? I’m confused on where to go from here.
after revisiting the forum with the ecms I see that this matches up with what I currently have, does that mean that the A58 - A62 are unusable?
when I input my VIN on Auto Parts Warehouse it pops up with an A62, and then the other website said the A58 was from an almost exact replica from California admissions, does that mean I have one with an ECM out of California already, or is it a different version? Just confused a little.
37820-PGE-325 & 37820-PGE-A62 will both work.
I don't know which ECU is the ULEV version, but I'm assuming it's the A58? As long as it's meant for the Type S, it will work. If yours is supposed to be an A58, then it looks like some one's already swapped it out.
Like I posted before, the main difference is the cold start up.
37820-PGE-325 & 37820-PGE-A62 will both work.
I don't know which ECU is the ULEV version, but I'm assuming it's the A58? As long as it's meant for the Type S, it will work. If yours is supposed to be an A58, then it looks like some one's already swapped it out.
Like I posted before, the main difference is the cold start up.
Ok so it looks like I don't even have a California one to start with, so then it shouldn't be any difference so I can still get the California one linked by zeta earlier and it should be fine?
Ok so it looks like I don't even have a California one to start with, so then it shouldn't be any difference so I can still get the California one linked by zeta earlier and it should be fine?
I would assume so, yes. I believe the A62 is the updated version to help with the transmission. If I remember correctly, they changed the shifting to be a tad slower. Other than the cold start and that, they will all work.
The base model ECUs are different and will not run your car correctly, and those are the ones you need to avoid.
I would assume so, yes. I believe the A62 is the updated version to help with the transmission. If I remember correctly, they changed the shifting to be a tad slower. Other than the cold start and that, they will all work.
The base model ECUs are different and will not run your car correctly, and those are the ones you need to avoid.
I went ahead and ordered the A58, sadly they just sold an A62 but honestly I just want my car to be issue free, if I want one and find one in the future that I need, so be it but I wanna be able to move on to the fun stuff without having to worry ab issues.
I went ahead and ordered the A58, sadly they just sold an A62 but honestly I just want my car to be issue free, if I want one and find one in the future that I need, so be it but I wanna be able to move on to the fun stuff without having to worry ab issues.
What kind of plans do you have in store if you don't mind me asking?
What kind of plans do you have in store if you don't mind me asking?
Well the point I’ve been at is just getting the basics fixed to have a well running car again, I had it checked out and timing belts n water pump replaced just the other day as well as an apple radio installed, after I figure out the ecm I am gonna restore my headlights, fix some simple things like redo the weather stripping sealants in the engine bay bc they are crusting and the adhesive is non existent. I also am interested in looking for some new interior door panels for the front but that isn’t my biggest concern rn, wanna put my money into better places. I’d like to have the car either repainted or wrapped when ever I can afford it because it sundamaged (might try and sand n do it myself) wanna get a mesh grill, kind of interested in taking off the rest of badges and I think just black Acura letters on the back would be clean, but that’s mainly just for the aesthetics part. I’d like to get exhaust done bc I wanna hear the car, not insanely loud but nice. Want to get a cold air intake, pulley system, headers (at some point) and a rear sway bar. Gonna figure out more stuff as I go along and hopefully be able to do a good amount of it myself because I am interested in learning, and it’s almost always cheaper.
I always love seeing a CL. Puts a smile on my face when I see one out in the wild. They'll haul ass when they're fully modified. I pull on NA V8s all the time, and most are not stock.
Well I hope you can get your ECU fixed ASAP so you can get the ball rolling on fixing it, then modifying.
