I will take a look tomorrow Zeta! I think i may have some. You can just have them, I wouldn't need them

 

Found em' Zeta!

 

^
Thanks 2ndgentl.
When time permits, can you spray a little 'lube' on the shield cover bolts and throw them in a box?
When your PM starts to work again, I'll send you my address. I'll paypal you the cost for UPS shipping.
Or if you have another primary email, I can forward payment there?
Let me know.

 

No problem Zeta! I'll get this PM resolved. Also, I tried searching everywhere online for that Mugen t-stat and fan switch and I just don't think that it exists anymore

 

They are all pretty pricey nowadays!
Search those part #'s, they have to be cheaper elsewhere?

https://www.kingmotorsports.com/p-14...hermostat.aspx


https://www.kingmotorsports.com/p-14...an-switch.aspx


https://www.kingmotorsports.com/p-38...iator-cap.aspx

 

I can't figure out what's going on with my messenger, I don't care if I just leave my phone #, e-mail, or FB name on here for you to PM me, im not worried about it lol

 

Believe me, online privacy, in this day and age, is everything.

Try this first:
click 'Settings' at the upper left menu bar. Next to 'FAQ'
click 'Edit Options' in the Settings & Options area, along the left side bar.
Scroll down to 'Private Messaging'
Make sure the 'Enable Private Messaging' box is populated with a check mark.
Scroll down and 'Save'.
If it already is, then there is something else wrong.
Try and send a PM.
If that does not work then just leave your Paypal email and your primary email here, if they are different, and I'll reach out with my address.

Easy Peasy

P.S. I found Denso IK 22's on rockauto for like $5.33 ea. then use coupon 0EE4568E734C97 to save even more!

 

^^
I let the forum peeps know about the PM issue in the AcuraZine User Help, Support & Suggestions Area thread below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/acurazi...roblem-983961/

 

Sorry to de-rail the current build status.

Were the AFRs posted in your j35a3 dyno post accurate? Looked like about 15:1. If that was the true # are there any fuel adjustments planned for this build?

 

I can't find anything that would mess up his PM's so I'm passing it up to the IB techs so they can check it out.

 

Thanks Ron A for your efforts!
I just attempted another send PM test to 2ndgentl and it failed.

 

Thanks Zeta! Yeah, there's definitely something wrong with my PM. We'll see what they can do to resolve this issue

 

Looking at the AFR it did look to be running just a little lean but im not sure if that's correct because I remember the guy at the dyno shop telling me that it was running pretty rich which I suspected because every time I would drive my car you could definitely smell a hint of fuel, and there where definitely no fuel leaks, also a look at the spark plugs determined it was running rich. Besides, everything was stock on the fuel side except the fuel pump, wahlbro 255

 

Yeah, thats's interesting. Perhaps the dyno wide band needed calibration. In any case, might be worth looking into.
For my build I'll be running full RL setup in j32a2, including injectors. Won't have a standalone, but I plan to mount AEM wideband from a previous car to keep an eye on things.

 

2ndgentl, Jason posted his analysis as to what is going on with your PM's below.

You either have to disable 'Receive Private Messages only from Contacts and Moderators' and then 'Enable Private Messaging' box.
Or send me a friend request to, some how, get on your friend list and be able to send you PM's.

 

Try sending me a PM, let's see if it works now. Sorry for the delay today

 

Keep in mind 2ndgentl, if you keep the 'Receive Private Messages only from Contacts and Moderators' enabled, everyone who tries to send you an email will have the same problem I did and you'll have to put them on your 'friend list' by sending a friend request.

If you disable 'Receive Private Messages only from Contacts and Moderators' and enable 'Enable Private Messaging', everyone can send you a PM without the necessity of putting them on your friends list.

 

Here's some before and after pics. The j32a2 engine that I'm installing went from being mummified to resurrected.

 

Nice looking engine! Hopefully this one give you better luck than the last ones.

 

Thank you Karanx7! I've got my fingers crossed...

 

Ok, I now have a slight dilemma. I'm ready to put the flywheel on the crank shaft and I noticed that the alignment pin (dowel pin) is missing, and I cannot find it anywhere. I believe the dowel pin is tapered because the hole on the crank is larger than the hole on the flywheel. I have called Acura, and spent 45 minutes at a Honda dealership just trying to find a part number for it and it just does not exist. Now what..... as a matter of fact, when I took the flywheel off the blown engine, the flywheel just fell into my hands, meaning there was probably no dowel pin there from the last time I bolted on the flywheel, which tells me that might be the reason why my starter would grind against the flywheel at times, because it probably wasn't aligned with the hole

 

Well... One question answered.

 

Dude. C'mon! It's 2019, just freaking 3D print one already...

 

I just printed one from my computer and cut it out with scissors. Now I have 196 more copies to make to match the thickness of the original one, but do you think it matters that it's made out of paper? Paper always beats Rock in "paper rock scissors" game, so it should be good...

 

2ndgentl, here is a suggestion. If it appears that the holes are differing, on the crank and the FW, then measure the inner diameter of each dowel pin hole (in millimeters?) with a micrometer and try and match it up with something on the link below. Type in 'dowel pin' and see if you get lucky with a size close to what you need.

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/search..._str=dowel+pin

You might already have one (the size you need) there handy in those two blown engines?

 

All three of my engines are missing that dowel pin. I've already checked every Parts bin I have, and there is no sign of that dowel pin anywhere. I might have to make one if I can't find one from another car that fits. Here is a picture of the crank and the flywheel, you can see where the dowel pin goes. Also, here is a picture of what the dowel pin should look like...

 

Should be good to go!

 

^

That oracle of cyberspace meme's Majofo could not have characterized your contribution(s) any better, LOL!!
Can you determine the millimeter size of those steps?

Maybe Aasco Motorsports can provide you with replacements?
Phone :714-758-8500

 

So, I just talked to my neighbor that is a master technition/tuner/car builder. He's been racing his rx-7 at Sebring for years. Definitely the sickest rx-7 I've ever seen. Anyways....he said not to worry about that dowel pin. The bolts and the crank keep it in place, the dowel pin is only there to hold the FW in place so that you can screw the bolts in at ease. Besides, he said if that dowel pin was that important it would definitely be available to purchase. I dunno, I guess I should should slap it (align the holes) on and move forward

 

Engine is in, but I haven't hooked up the wire harness yet. Also, I took the front head off the blown motor and saw the damage on the piston and broken valve. It seems that I had a floating valve caused by a bad/weak valve spring?
I was turning the crank (with all spark plugs out) and #5 piston moves up and down very smoothly with no play just like the rest of the piston. #5 piston doesn't exceed at top anymore than the rest of the piston. So, my guess is that the valve was floating when the piston hit it and the valve snapping in half is what caused all the scoring on the piston and smashed the spark plug. Either way, motor is junk to me.

 

^
Wow! That valve is really lodged in there.

So, 2ndgentl, are you going to first install the engine normally aspirated, run the engine awhile, then recheck the compression numbers to see if they come up with the engine in use, then install the S/C'er?

Or, will you go straight through and install the S/C'er and the AEM EMS?

P.S. I received the parcel you sent on Friday, thanks again.

 

I'm going to first run the engine for a little bit while it's N/A so that I can re-check the compression before I go ahead with the S/C'er. Glad to hear that you received the manifolds already
So, I was thinking....the starter grinding on the FW couldn't have been from the dowel pin missing, I remember talking to heel/toe racing where I purchased it from as a kit with the clutch and he did some research on it and found out that the j35a3 FW had 3 more teeth on it than the j32a2 FW. So that would confirm that problem. But I solved that issue on my own by wiring the starter to a separate solenoid where when the ignition key is turned the starter gear (appendix) engages the flywheel without spinning. Then I would hold down the push start button I installed on the dash which would spin the starter as it's already engaged on the FW starting the engine. And that resolved the grinding issue.
Now about the j35a3 valve/spring failing....i wonder if it had anything to do with the j32a2 cams. Were those cams too aggressive for those valve springs? I know it had nothing to do with the installation since I did a valve job 4 times on it just because my OCD kicked in to re-check it every so often. I couldn't have adjusted them any better from how quiet that motor was. I'm just hoping that this j32a2 will be fine since there was nothing internally changed on it.

 

Yes, the J35A3 intake springs aren't as stiff as the J32A2, and it looks like your problem was an intake spring. That being said, the amount of damage in those pictures isn't typical of a slight over rev. Something really failed for it to let go like that. Very strange, but it seems like a mechanical failure of the valve keeper or something causing the valve to entirely drop. The other intake valve on the same cylinder is totally fine, so it's unlikely to be the piston.

 

Well, she's finally back in and running. Car is still up on jacks, so I haven't driven it yet. I had it idling for about an hour just to look/inspect everything. It idles nice and revs up really fast. My only concern is that I might have to adjust the valves, but I'm going to drive it/break it in for a little bit first. The valves sound like any other honda engine with 90k on them, but I guess they could be just a little quieter.

 

That looks like a brand new engine.
It will be interesting to see how the compression numbers turn out after you've driven it.

 

I took it out for a spin today and it runs good! Although, I can definitely feel the torque loss now that im back to a j32a2 , but I'm trying to look ahead and tell myself that it won't really matter when I put the SC'er on. I'll be doing a compression check on the motor sometime soon, although it does sound/run fine.




Also, not used to seeing this lol...

 

So, I'm about to do a valve adjustment on the j32a2. Does anyone know from experience what these motors run best at? For example, factory settings the intake valve lash is .020mm - .024mm and the exhaust is .028mm - .032mm. Should I lean towards the tighter mm number or the looser mm number? I know the tighter they are the more chance you have of burning up valves from them not seating properly, and the looser they are the more wear occurs on top of the valve stem and the louder they are, but I also know that if they are on the loose side (within spec) you gain more HP top end but lose a little torque low end. All the research I've done 90% of the people agree on looser valves "are happy valves" (within spec). If I go that route do I just adjust them to the highest Factory spec? Example; intake .020mm - .024mm would be adjusted to .024mm and exhaust .028mm - .032mm would be adjusted to .032mm, or do I go slightly looser? (.033mm - .035) I'm just curious what you guys think

 

On my last TB change in 2011 ( I know it's due! ) I stayed in the middle on both ranges.

Like .022mm for intake and .030mm for exhaust.

It's been running really good all the years since.

I'll check them again this time around (TB change) at the same values.

Not sure if that helps you though.

 

Thanks Zeta! I guess where I should start is see where they're at now and go from there. Not sure is they're too tight now or too loose or within specs. A part of me wants to just focus on making them as quiet as possible, not sure how yours sound like Zeta since you did a valve job. I can hear the valves pretty good at around 2000 - 3500 rpms. My MDX is as quiet as a church mouse and it has a 180k on it (but of course that engine is not tampered with).

 

As far as I can tell, mine are pretty quite. Nothing (noise/ticking) stands out that would say 'Hey these need adjusting'.

I bet that when you get in there, if they are as loud as you say at 2-3k rpms, they are probably on the loose side and need attention. How many miles were on that genuine salvage CL-S6 engine again?