Hello,

Just recently (last couple of days) my blower has not worked upon initial start up. However, after I drive 1/4 mile or so it comes on as normal blasting heat.

What could this be?

Thank you!

 

The two most common culprits for this problem are blower motor and/or power transistor but you will need to test them to avoid unnecessary repairs.

Less common are climate control unit, blower motor relay and wiring (TSB on your vehicle). Best method is to have it diagnosed properly so you don't throw parts at it.

 

Ok thank you! Are these easy things to get to? Is the power transistor a switch or a large unit? Is it a plug and play part I can just switch out easily and cheaply?

 

For anyone reading my thread check this out too. Great pics and help.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p...ir-diy-775458/



Hmm the PN for the transistor is $39, I might just buy that and try it. If that does not work then the motor.

Can someone confirm this is the transistor unit I need to buy?

https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...0-s0k-a01.html

 

In Auto Mode, the climate control will not start to blow unless there is hot air available. It will not blow cold air, instead it will wait until it is warm enough before it starts to blow. As long as the heater is still cold the blower will wait until it warms up and then start blowing warm air.

 

UPDATE:

I tested the fuse on the driver side it was ok. I bought a new Transistor and installed it, still no dice. I then bought a new motor from autozone made by Everco. The mounting hardware plate was the same, but the harness was not built into the body of the fan and had about 3" of cord. Also, The hose it came with would not reach the from the blower motor to the car male part on the car. I had to jerry rig it with the old hose by using both. Long story short it worked. Everything fired up just fine! YAY!

The only thing is there was a small audible hiss at mid-high fan speeds that kind of annoyed me. The fan insulator would not fit on this motor do to its slight dimension change. I then called and asked if they could get me one that matched 1:1 the mfg PN I gave them and do a swap. They did, it is made by TYC. After I installed the new motor, which I liked much better do to that lack of hose jerry rig required. I still noticed the hiss, but now in its own way as it was a new motor. Since the dimensions were 1:1 on everything I was able to slip the insulator on and the hiss sound decreased by about 95%, so clearly that is the purpose of the insulator.

Bottom line is buy the motor that looks just like the OEM one. It is totally worth it to have the insulator on there. Also, you want to be able to re-use the hose and not have to jerry rig anything.

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For the record my problem was faulty blower motor.

TO ANYONE WHO NEEDS HELP please click on the link above linking to a thread started by KevlarCC it was a great help.