because they offer that half a point higher compression, and it is not like we got a whole lot of options out there for pistons to start off with

 

my gf can't understand why I have so many boxes of stock parts, just in case beotch!

 

People make fun of my garage. They call it Hondas VA Warehouse. Ive got alot of used parts, but theres also quite a bit of brand new, factory sealed parts for cars I no longer have. Ive got damn near every suspension part and body part from an 89 Civic hatchback. And those parts arent available anymore. Most will get used, but the others Im not getting rid of. Ive also got quite a few parts for a 4th gen Prelude. Anyone need a stage 1 H22A clutch with lightweight flywheel?

 

^ I have a axle back setup for a 88-91 civic/crx. It was on the car for maybe 2 months and now it lives in the upstairs bedroom.
It's all 1 piece, 2 1/2" pipe, muffler sits like stock and 4 1/2" tip.
It's all polished stainless.
Need it,want it.

 

Got a brand new (now discontinued IIRC) RS-R exhaust. Thanks though.

 

just thought i post this for you civic

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrT99...eature=related

 

or this one where you can definitely hear the turbo spool up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFryN...eature=related

or this one where they litially beat the living shit out of it on the dyno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QC9Tt...eature=related

 

Yea, Fries, you couldve pm'd me those.

I got a CEL today on the way to work and the car wouldnt rev past 3k rpms. I pulled over and reset the ECU and so far so good.

I cant wait to get the new motor mounts in. Its gotten to the point where I dont want to drive the car anymore for fear that Im going to break something else.

 

Did you happen to catch what code it was?

 

He is readerless.

 

3k rpm? thats worse than limp mode

 

No. I pulled over, yanked the clock fuse and let it sit for about 20 seconds. I plugged everything back in and drove easy on it on the way home.

Since I didnt get the code again I took the car to work last night and I havent had any issues since.

Im going to buy a cheap reader and keep it in the trunk just in case shit like this happens again.

I thought maybe it was a misfire, but wouldn't it rev alittle higher then 3k even with it misfiring? My AFRs were right and my fuel pressure didnt drop, so I honestly have no idea what happened.

 

Check the TPS, tht is the only thing on your car I can think of that would do that.

 

Will do.

 

hows the car now ?

any better ?

hows the wheels ? can we see them ? if not then - CAN I SEE THEM ?

 

Yes, theyre black. I havent swapped tires yet. Nor have I had the time to do the mounts or other suspension work. Im getting rid of the KSports though, thats for sure.

Im concentrating on the suspension and mounts this weekend as thats the most pressing issue with the car. Next week I hopefully can take care of the wheels.

 

what kind of suspension are u getting next?

 

i was wondering if there were any suspension bushings i should replace now when i am installing my coilovers. i was thinking the radius rod bushings. I also have had my front spc camber kit on for over 6 years. Will i be fine with the spc kit for a few more years or should i replace with ingalls full arms now. Any suggestions and sorry for the thread hijack just not worth making a full thread about. I am willing to do anything that will improve the handling of this car. Also i already have progress rear sway installed and the eibach front sway and moog endlinks to still install. Should i bother installing the front sway or will it be a negative to the handling characteric change from adding the stiff rear sway.

 

Personally, I wouldnt install the front sway. Its personal preference though. With a thicker front sway bar, the car tends to plow (push) through turns. With the oem bar up front and beefier bar in the rear, the rear tends to rotate more, allowing me to enter turns a bit faster, and worst case kick the back out (its happened before ) if I go in a bit hot.

Does Ingalls make a front kit? I forget what kit I have up front now....

If youre SPC ball joints are still in good shape, theres no sense replacing them. Make sure the boots aren't cracked and they are still greased well and you should be good.

Im split on replacing the endlinks. If theyre damaged, absolutely, but if theyre fine, is it really worth the headache replacing them now? Other then that, radius rod bushings are cheap enough to replace. Inspect the LCA bushings as well as your lower ball joints. Also the tie rod ends since youre there. Also check the sway bar bushings. Im running polyurethane bushings in the rear and OEM rubber bushings in the front.

Rajca - Most likely the Neuspeed Super Cup kit. The warranty and build quality is most appealing. I spoke with Marcus (HellToe) at great length yesterday. He almost had me sold on the Tein SS-Ps resprung and revalved, but the price doesnt really work for me. Plus, there are distributors that can modify the Konis (Neuspeed uses Koni struts), not just revalving but they can also shorten the strut length, basically giving me back the lost travel in the struts due to the lowering springs. I wont be getting them modded right now, Im going to install them and see how they are at that point. They are about twice as soft as the KSports, springs wise, which could be a downside, but we'll see once I install them.

 

I have been running the neuspeed sp3 shocks along with the neuspeed sport springs myself for 6 years and no issues so far, i have nothing bad to say about them.

 

When upgrading to a thicker swaybar id highly recomend getting moog endlinks. Their greasable, twice a thick and bulkier. I'm got them on the rear with my 24mm progress sway bar (I've spun out twice bc of it, but love the feeling of it) and gonna get them for the front and leave the sway bar oem

 

Super Cup kit ordered. I should have bought it the first time around. It cost less, and is much better quality. Plus the customizations available along with the lifetime warranty on both struts and springs is 1000x better

It wont be in until next week though, but Im still going to do the other suspension work and the mounts tomorrow, even though its supposed to be 95* out And Sunday I should finally be able to work and the new intake again. I was supposed to work on it last weekend but the vacation + family fucked things up.

 

^they make that kit for our cars?

 

Kinda

 

x2
linky f***er

 

those shocks and springs have been available for our car since atleast 2003 as far as i know, considering i have them on my car still. In 2003 it just didnt come as a kit so i bought the springs and struts seperate. I was wondering if getting the zeal coilovers was a good choice, those things are so heavy since they are the steel not aluminum ones. I would think the neuspeed is better for tracking am i wrong?

 

I have no experience with Zeal.

Technically, Neuspeed doesnt sell the Super Cup kit for our car, but I didn't piece together mine. Its the whole thing and I got it under $700 shipped direct from Neuspeed.

 

but basically you are piecing together these
springs:
http://www.neuspeed.com/products/product_details.asp?app=16|AC&type=2&ltype=ns_impo rt&p_id=884
front shocks:
http://www.neuspeed.com/products/product_details.asp?app=16|AC&type=2&ltype=ns_impo rt&p_id=1132
and rears:
http://www.neuspeed.com/products/product_details.asp?app=16|AC&type=2&ltype=ns_impo rt&p_id=1131

 

Someone cant add.

Each strut is $145. Not per pair. Each. So $290 for the front, $290 for the rear, and $199 for springs = $779.

 

and with them saying this " 20mm shorter droop length for use with lowering springs" does that mean you get 20mm of more up travel then or just less droop (aka like a longer bump stop)

 

When you run lowering springs on stock height struts you bottom out more because the strut shaft is in the middle of the shaft travel. The Konis are shorter then stock so you should get more travel out of the strut.

 

but they never mention more up travel though, just less droop, which to means makes it sound like they just put in a longer droop bump stop (or a spacer)(not a compression one), so that when you put in shorter springs they still stay tight in there seats since the shock cannot extend as much as stock

 

No, the shaft itself is actually shorter.

 

so then it does not have more compression then..... shorter shaft is still basically like a longer droop bump stop, just stops the longer travel but does nothing for the up travel though, and it does not really matter exactly how they had done it, it just means less droop but the same up travel

what they need to do is make the shaft shorter ALONG with the body being shorter to get some additional up travel (so like 10mm on the shaft with 10mm on the shock body, and that would equal your 20mm of less droop travel)

 

I think we misunderstood each other. According to Marcus at HeelToe and the guy at Nuespeed (Roger I think?), the entire strut assembly is shorter. Marcus did mention that the fronts are shorter then stock but the rears are not, but the guy from Neuspeed did not mention that. Ill find out when I get them. At this point, I dont care if they are shorter or longer then OEM. They offer 5 preset height adjustments, allow for dampening adjustments, and have a lifetime warranty. On a car that sees ~35k miles a year, thats a big deal.

Technically I said no more off topic bs. As long as we're talking about the suspension, technically we're on topic. So please, no nonsense pictures and videos. Kthxbai!

 

yeah does not offer as much control over height as coilovers, but more of a set and forget type of deal though, especially for a higher mileage driven car

then dampening also helps too, but again maybe not as precise as coilovers, but still not like you are pushing the car on a track anyways, where you need the most precise control for the best lap times

then i know you are it or something, but wtf requires you to drive that many miles



and as for those shocks, a shorter body should allow it to have more compression, but you say the guy from neuspeed never mentioned that, but also i don't see any mention of a short body specifically on their site though, so idk

and the rears already seem to have enough up travel as is, so not really worried about there, it's the fronts that could use a little more compression stroke

 

As far as dampening control - Konis seem to have much better suspension systems, especially compared to KSport/Megan/Omni/F2/whatever else is made in the same factory just in different colors.

Im in IT. I bought the car with 56k miles in Aug 2008, I have over 117k miles on it as of today. My mileage has definately slowed down compared to last year, but Im still on pace to put ~27k miles on it this year. I had 103k on the chassis in December when I got the engine rebuilt.

 

actually not that far ahead from me, i'm almost t 115k

 

Give me a week, Ill be even further ahead

Not that it matters. Im getting my monies worth.

 

Sometimes Im upset because my car averaged ~9k a year before I bought it. And I more then doubled what was on the clock in less then two years