Why should I put a J35A3 in my car?
#1
Why should I put a J35A3 in my car?
I see a lot of talk about this being a great upgrade. Looking purely at peak power and torque, it doesn't look all that impressive when compared to the J32A2. Less HP and only a little more torque. I assume the J32A2 cams make up the HP difference and the power band is more favorable? But is the difference between the 2 engines that noticeable? I'm looking to build a turbo kit for my CLS 6. Low boost...6 or 7 lbs. Obviously I can see where the j35A3 forged bottom end would be superior in a FI setup.
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
This guy provides some good info:
This guy provides some good info:
The J35A3 is the way to go, forged crank, same heads, runners, injectors and IM as the J32A2 they even use the same reinforced block. The oil pressure spring and valve is different but can be changed with new Honda parts for less than $10. The cams and springs are different but if not changing the compression ratio probably not worth changing. The J35A3 has 10:1 compression where the J32A2 has 10.5:1 due to raised pistons in the J32A2, Milling the J35A3 head .020" will raise the compression to 10.5:1 and cost less than $100 at the machine shop. The 35 really likes the light weight crank pulley since it has a longer stroke and heavier rotating assembly. The TLs harness is a direct fit with no modifications, they both use the flapper in the IM and don't believe the hype if you are NA keep the flapper hooked up. Just because it always comes up the J32A2 uses a 1mm larger intake valve but they both use the same valve seat so it becomes a disadvantage due to shrouding its a moot point.
As far as the auto trans it can be re-built to hold the power of a 3.5 with no problem. Use the full Tran-Lab shift kit (use the race/towing specs), Raybestos GPX clutches, Level 10 TC and TCC valve. Use only Honda fluid and change 3qts at least every 3rd oil change, sooner if more power or driving hard. The biggest key to keeping it from killing its self it to adjust the A-B solenoids, you will need the tool from Sonnex its about $25 and is a must. You can take an older stock trans and extend its life by keeping the fluid changed and the A-B solenoids tuned correctly.
As far as the auto trans it can be re-built to hold the power of a 3.5 with no problem. Use the full Tran-Lab shift kit (use the race/towing specs), Raybestos GPX clutches, Level 10 TC and TCC valve. Use only Honda fluid and change 3qts at least every 3rd oil change, sooner if more power or driving hard. The biggest key to keeping it from killing its self it to adjust the A-B solenoids, you will need the tool from Sonnex its about $25 and is a must. You can take an older stock trans and extend its life by keeping the fluid changed and the A-B solenoids tuned correctly.
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microracer24 (08-25-2020)
#3
J35a3 with CL-s pistons and heads has been a great setup for me lots of power and higher compression.
It may have heavier rotating assembly and longer stroke but my 0 - 60 times are still better and 3rd gear in vtec is amazing (5at) compared to the j32a2 ( my j32a2 had 300k KM so its not completely fair comparison but still)
It may have heavier rotating assembly and longer stroke but my 0 - 60 times are still better and 3rd gear in vtec is amazing (5at) compared to the j32a2 ( my j32a2 had 300k KM so its not completely fair comparison but still)
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zeta (08-30-2020)
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