bhurlbut

Today I went to adjust my Progress RSB and found the endlink bracket is broken.....again! Why not the right? Why not both? W hiskey T ango F oxtrot!

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

its a main issue if u use aftermarket sway bar just our link are not strong enough to hold it up. i have to check my links too but they seems to be fine... there is a topic wtih moog link that will last
http://www.autoparts.shopstreets.com...ink-kit-k90340 here is link to it

bhurlbut

Yeah, i already have the moog's...i guess the setup is too strong for the OEM stamped low-grade steel part that i have to replace...again.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

u mean that moog's link has broke ? or oem ?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

or do you mean the actual mount for the swaybar??? , or what the endlink actually mounts too

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Hes talking about the mount itself, not the endlink.

Its a known issue. It happens

Since this isnt the first time, check all the bushings in that area out and make sure they are good. Dont forget the sway bar bushings.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

so the mounting strap broke, or did the subframe break/tear,

only thing i can think of for it being the right side breaking again is because that is the side that normally drops off the road when turning around and such


also to the op, do you drive on alot of dirt roads, or roads in very bad condition

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

He said its the left side.

I dont know if you'd call it the strap, but its that flimsy piece of stamped steel mounted on the hub. They like to snap.



#10

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

never saw "left" mentioned , so i misread it then


so for that side then, maybe he likes to park with the right wheel on curbs alot, so the car is not sitting level,

but you could say that normally people take left hand turns faster, so more body lean and stress (right side be compressed, where left side is extended)(which basically comes down to metal fatigue, with a stiffer RSB, that the mount was never designed for)


also to OP, have you ever had slicks on the car,(or tracked it), which causes even more stress on the bracket due to more body lean and such

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

whoops, just saw left mentioned in the title

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

pffft, noobs

Allout

As far as your question - Why not both? It would be almost impossible to break both. Once one breaks, it relieves the load on the bar.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I thought it was a rhetorical question, but that is correct.

bhurlbut

I'm sure this is the prob: my neighborhood is a gated community that has 4 speed tables that I have to go over just to get to my place. they're shaped like /-\ instead of normal humps.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

those would proably would snap the right side though, maybe get some made out of 1/4 steel, so you don't have to worry about it again, (and i use to have one where i use to live [it was a raised crosswalk], but anyways i can go over it at the speed limit with only a slight rock of the car, if i put the wheels in the gutter [not close enough to scrape though], but if you went over it at the center at the speed limit, you would definetly get some hang time)

only thing i can think of making it snap, is the combo of tein coilovers (sig) which are stiffer then stock in the rear, and a stiffer rear sway bar especially if you like it on the stiffest setting (and every one on here lowered with a rsb has the potential for theirs to snap too)
(a stiffer front end does not help ethier, cause it makes the back flex more with the stiffer springs and sway bar)

RooEng

The way everything is designed is wrong. The bracket isn't vertical, it's angled back about 15* from vertical as viewed from the side. When the right tire goes up, it tries to force the left up but instead of twisting the bar, the endlink pushes up and the bracket bends forward. Do this to many times and the bracket will crack.


I replaced the endlinks with rod ends and added a strap to rear to triangulate the mount.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I cant tell from your picture, but you are using the stock bracket along with a strap? Is that what I see? Or is it just the strap?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

and to triangulate??? i don't see really any triangulation, do you mean putting the mount in doable shear (mount on each side of the load, vs only on one side [single shear], so it can not flex nearly as much

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

also you are low if your lower arms are angleing up like that

RooEng

Rod ends should always be mounted in double shear and it is in double shear but that's not what I was talking about.

If you look at my 1st grade quality drawing, I'm still using the OE bracket in front of the shock and added the strap on the rear of the shock. The OE bracket angles back, the strap angles forward creating the two legs of a triangle and both are mounted to the rear knuckle and completing the triangle.

At the time I did this, the HD Moog links weren't available, so this was my solution. The Teflon lined rod ends were about 6$ each and I had most of the other hardware so it was a really cheap mod for me.

I'm about 1/4" from bottomed out on the Tein's

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

the red one , cause yes that one would be triangulated (not really though because of the bend in the factory one, but really close to it)

where the green one is not

rp_guy

his rod ends have studs on both sides, not just the original single hex bolt