Hi everyone. Just bought an 02 CL-S6 yesterday. There are a few things wrong with it that I need to take care of before I do much driving. I just wanted some advice on what I should do "while I'm in there."

Axles. Not much else to do there. I'll probably go to legend calipers while its all appart.

Clutch. Lots else to do there. I've heard about a lot of mods to do there. Don't know too much about it. I'm from the TL side so I'm not used to the 3rd pedal.

Shifter. Car came with a terrible billet shift knob that needs to go. There is also some play in the linkage. Not sure if there are replacement bushings or if I should just go to a short shifter.

Valves/timing belt. I don't know the service hostory and there is a lite valve tic. So I'll be doing a valve job and timing belt. I've heard of going to newer TL exhaust valve springs... Is this a good while your in there thing or something I shouldn't worry about until I do more modifications? I'll also clean my intake manifold and throttle body. I'll also throw in some thermo gaskets.

Front motor mount. Is there an alternative to running a front mount? I know when people do motor swaps into civics and stuff they don't always use the front mount. I'd like to eliminate it for simplicity if I ever make it to fabricating some long tubes.

That's it for now. Aside from pulling all the heavy dampers out of the steering wheel and cross members.

If anyone has any advice on some things I can do while I have it all appart I would really appreciate it!

 

you must have an 03 not 02 because that's the only year for the 6speed.

I'm not sure what your power goals are, but oem clutch is good for full bolt ons and much cheaper than other alternatives.

I wouldn't bother with the valve springs. Money can be better spent elsewhere at this point. They are stiffer and help with over-rev protection.

You need a front motor mount! Get some XLR8 mounts while you're at it. People have done longtubes and all had the front mount there.

 

Typo on the year. Oops!

Power goals are nothing beyond bolt-ons for the foreseeable future.

 

RockAuto has the (Luk#08047) OEM clutch kit $172.79 and OEM flywheel (LukDMF063) for $200.79. Search for their 5% coupon to get additional savings.

 

Did some looking around. Rock auto seems to have the best price.

It looks like while I have the trans out I should change the rear main seal and delete the slave cylinder check valve.

My goal is to figure out as much as I can before I tear it down, that way it's not appart for a month while I wait for parts...
I'm doing as much research as I can but it can't always compensate for experience. Thanks for your guys' help so far!

 

Old or new main seal wont matter if your pcv goes bad. It will blow it out either way. Make sure to buy an oem pcv as well!

 

Good to know. I want to look into alternatives to the pcv system though. It's not terribly efficient and I don't want all that oil caked back in my intake after I clean it all...

 

grab an oil catch can. then your intake manifold will stay clean.

 

Is there a catch can the CL guys like to use? or should I just build one? it would be a cool afternoon project

 

Well, my intake manifold is off and cleaned out. I am polishing the outside of it, and will do a very mild port just to match the horns? to the cast part of the intake inside the plenum. I'll also take down a few of the larger casting marks.

Also that valve in the middle of the manifold is a trip. first time seeing inside the intake of a type s... is it a problem that the seal arround it isn't perfect? the gasket set I ordered didn't include a replacement.

 

You could upgrade to some Supertech valve springs:
Supertech Valve Springs - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

Definitely look into our front motor mounts as well. These would be a great replacement to your oem mounts. The mounts themselves are made from mild steel and use polyurethane inserts.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-411798.aspx

 

motor mounts are a must, would you advise removing the factory torque dampers if I get a full poly motor mount kit?

 

No, they're just added dampers and will only help. You can upgrade those to NRG dampers. People have used NRG dampers from a civic or integra. You can search to find that thread, I can't remember the exact years.

 

We offer the Ingalls Stiffy Torque Damper for $159.28. You can order it right from our website:
Ingalls 'Stiffy' Engine Torque Dampner - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

 

How does it work? Is it a solid brace? Or is it a hydraulic damper?

 

Timing belt

Look for a timing belt service decal on the right front shock tower. Some shop will put it there if it was done.

 

I already did valves and my timing belt. and bleeding the clutch fixed the slipping issue. So the car is pretty close to good

 

It is a hydraulic damper that works to keep the engine in place.