mantis23

On the way home yesterday, I noticed heavy dimming of my gauge cluster lights when the bass was hitting. This hasn't been an issue until recently.

I've had various amp combos in there for about a year now. Right now I have 1 eclipse 34230(550Wx2), and a Phoenix Gold 500.4 Ti. Which one of these could be starting to go?

battery (optima blue)
alternator (stock)
farad cap (phoenix gold)
Other?

I hate to spend money replacing all of these, whats the best way to determine the weakest link in my setup?

GreenMonster

I always look for the cheap easy fixes first, so check for any loose connections (or connections with corrosion).

Nicky Pass

I've noticed the same thing....I have a JL 300/4 and 500/1... I have a 1.5 frarad Cap too!

Jens H.

Bad grounds?
Dead alternator?
Weak battery?
ELD defective?

Jens

Gilgamesh

I ran just that but only a 1 farad cap...did just fine in the TL with stock electricals...the cap could not be working up to snuff, it may need a full charge/discharge Could be the battery getting there?

gdubb

probably your altenator. Only reason why I say that is because you have a cap and good battery. Your just working that altenator hard, those amps draw some current. To check with your shop that does the work on it

mantis23

call me stupid, but whats an ELD?

proaudio22

Do you have access to a clap meter? Measure the current being pulled while the bass is hitting and all of your car lights are on from each of the different wires coming from the alternator (one goes to the battery, another goes to the first fusepanel I think). You have to do each wire seperatly otherwise you won't get accurate reading. These numbers added up should not be much higher than the rating of the alternator. Your cap is there to even out very fast peaks, but won't do much for constant notes. If you do get a number higher than the rating of the alternator, it's a good possibility you are frying it.

That is the best way to check, but if you don't have access to a clamp meter, a standed volt meter can be used too. Place it across the battery while the car lights are off and the system is off. Have a buddy rev the engine to about 2500-3000 rpm (as if you were driving). You should have about 14.4 volts. Now turn on the system and all of the lights. If this voltage drops below 13 or so, you have too much current being drawn.

Crazy Bimmer

ok stupid.

Nicky Pass

Seriously...what is ELD???

proaudio22

(E)lectric (L)oad (D)etector. The ELD monitors the load being pulled by the main fuse box - any current drawn from the battery (IE system) isn't counted. However there is anothe sensor that monitors the current being drawn from the charging circuit. The ECU compares that load and the charging load and determins idle speed, etc. Jens will be able to explain exactly what it does on our cars. Wouldn't it throw a code tho Jens?

EDIT: I neva thought about this before, but you can check the voltage from the ECU to the ELD and FR (charging) circuits and get all the info you need.

mantis23

thanks for the good info proaudio, I wish trolls like Jizzman could learn to provide helpful info.

One thing I did notice that leads me to believe its my alternator is when I'm cruising, the lights don't dim as much. But when I come to complete stop, and sit for a few seconds, the gauge cluster dims like a mofo.

I blame the war in Iraq for all my problems.

proaudio22

That def sounds like your alternator then. It could still be something else, we'll have to see what Jens says.