What is the final verdict on stock shocks + comptech springs?
What is the final verdict on stock shocks + comptech springs?
Good? Bad?
I have 40k mi on my stock shocks, if I were to get comptechs, could I safely throw them on my stockers?
I remember reading somewhere that it was fine, but just a bit bouncy.
Any updates since then? Anyone else set-up with the stock shocks but dropped?
I have 40k mi on my stock shocks, if I were to get comptechs, could I safely throw them on my stockers?
I remember reading somewhere that it was fine, but just a bit bouncy.
Any updates since then? Anyone else set-up with the stock shocks but dropped?
Several people haven't had problems using the stock shocks on the CT springs. My dealership feels so strongly, they will warrant my shocks till 100K, I had 30K on my car when I had them installed.
I think my ride could be "firmer" with upgraded shocks and perhaps less "bouncy". However, I have been in 3 cars with springs (2CT & 1Eiback Prokit) using OEM struts before my install, and found the OEM struts to be acceptable. I like many others didn't want to spend the extra cash for shocks when I could get some good mileage on my current ones.
I got my springs installed on Jan. 22nd, and so far haven't regretted using my stock shocks/struts.
I think my ride could be "firmer" with upgraded shocks and perhaps less "bouncy". However, I have been in 3 cars with springs (2CT & 1Eiback Prokit) using OEM struts before my install, and found the OEM struts to be acceptable. I like many others didn't want to spend the extra cash for shocks when I could get some good mileage on my current ones.
I got my springs installed on Jan. 22nd, and so far haven't regretted using my stock shocks/struts.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Shreveport, Louisiana, just east of nowhere
I have CT's and Stock shocks...I don't feel any bounce. If you do want a more stiff ride then upgrade the shocks...think you can get the tokico blues for good price on Ebay.
Lowering the car on aftermarket springs will have some effect on the longevity of the OEM struts. How much of an effect is the unknown...
There are plenty of people who have the stock struts and a Comptech drop without any problem (me included). There are some here that have reported early failure of the stock strut.
With 40K already on the struts I think it's a bit of a crap shoot. If I was in your boat and wanted to modify the suspension, I'd do both struts and shocks at the same time. The install shouldn't be much more (well, it really shouldn't be any more -- but I'm sure the installer will charge for both separately).
Most of the aftermarket struts have lifetime warranties (Koni & Tokico), so keep that in mind too.
There are plenty of people who have the stock struts and a Comptech drop without any problem (me included). There are some here that have reported early failure of the stock strut.
With 40K already on the struts I think it's a bit of a crap shoot. If I was in your boat and wanted to modify the suspension, I'd do both struts and shocks at the same time. The install shouldn't be much more (well, it really shouldn't be any more -- but I'm sure the installer will charge for both separately).
Most of the aftermarket struts have lifetime warranties (Koni & Tokico), so keep that in mind too.
Hmm
Thanks for all the replies. I'm still torn though
Guess it all depends on whether I want to spend the extra money or not. Honestly, i was hoping on putting the money I would save by keeping the stock struts, and getting sway bars.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm still torn though

Guess it all depends on whether I want to spend the extra money or not. Honestly, i was hoping on putting the money I would save by keeping the stock struts, and getting sway bars.
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i personally wouldnt want to use oem shocks with aftermarket springs for a prolonged time..cuz a friend of mine who did that ended up bending his oem shock and messing up the mounts on the car. just my
Originally posted by BEETROOT
why not just go with stock shocks until they go bad, then get the aftermarket?
to save on install costs?
why not just go with stock shocks until they go bad, then get the aftermarket?
to save on install costs?
IMHO, with past experience, do the upgrade all at once, I'm sorry, but I find it funny when you can "see" someone is riding stock shocks with a drop....
1. The ride seems bouncy with the Comptechs and stock springs. I've only been in two cars -- both CLS' -- and in my area.
2. Sure, you save money doing shocks + springs at the same time. However, if they aren't coilovers, and you have a rub or other problem, you can have a hard time trying to figure out which part of the combo needs changing to suit your tastes. (I'm not saying NOT to do it all at once -- just pointing out a possible negative...)
3. Depending on whom you talk to and the type of road you're on, the bounce can be "very mild" or "quite noticeable" and it might have something to do with the progressive wind of the Comptech springs. The factory shocks are not "valved" to the wind of the CT springs.
4. You are going to wear out the stock shocks faster with the CT springs, and if the factory shocks are getting "soft" (time for a 'bounce' test), it might be worth taking a ride in another member's car to see how a particular shock/spring and/or coilover setup works. (Find a another members car and bounce it with your weight, compare it to your car, and see if you might be used to some "soft"/"old"/"worn" shocks...)
-- Take some rides and see if you are up for Tokicos and/or Konis. If you like a particular feel and setup do as NiteQwill suggested above and save the labor (kill two birds with one stone). BTW, there are some better Discount Tire and other speed shops that have provided very reasonable quotes to do shocks, springs, and alignment. Some dealers charge way too much money...
YMMV
2. Sure, you save money doing shocks + springs at the same time. However, if they aren't coilovers, and you have a rub or other problem, you can have a hard time trying to figure out which part of the combo needs changing to suit your tastes. (I'm not saying NOT to do it all at once -- just pointing out a possible negative...)
3. Depending on whom you talk to and the type of road you're on, the bounce can be "very mild" or "quite noticeable" and it might have something to do with the progressive wind of the Comptech springs. The factory shocks are not "valved" to the wind of the CT springs.
4. You are going to wear out the stock shocks faster with the CT springs, and if the factory shocks are getting "soft" (time for a 'bounce' test), it might be worth taking a ride in another member's car to see how a particular shock/spring and/or coilover setup works. (Find a another members car and bounce it with your weight, compare it to your car, and see if you might be used to some "soft"/"old"/"worn" shocks...)
-- Take some rides and see if you are up for Tokicos and/or Konis. If you like a particular feel and setup do as NiteQwill suggested above and save the labor (kill two birds with one stone). BTW, there are some better Discount Tire and other speed shops that have provided very reasonable quotes to do shocks, springs, and alignment. Some dealers charge way too much money...
YMMV
I've had Comptech springs put on at about 23k and have 35k now on the stock shocks.
I don't notice and still don't notice much of a difference in terms of bounciness. Seems fine to me. A little rougher, maybe.
Also, once in a while, particularly when I go over large speed bumps, a squeak comes out of the front right wheel area. Could it be the shock? If so, can I have shocks tested to see how much longer I can go with them?
I don't notice and still don't notice much of a difference in terms of bounciness. Seems fine to me. A little rougher, maybe.
Also, once in a while, particularly when I go over large speed bumps, a squeak comes out of the front right wheel area. Could it be the shock? If so, can I have shocks tested to see how much longer I can go with them?
When i first put CT on my TLS, there was a bit of extra bounce like an extra oscillation and a half over bumps but it was tolerable.
Anyone who tells you there's no difference is not being fully up front. I CAN be tolerable but it will never be ideal.
Now that I have had them on about 20k, the bounce is worse.
In hindsight I would have put shocks on at the same time without a doubt.
Tokico blue's can be bought for $260 on ebay. Just do it!
Anyone who tells you there's no difference is not being fully up front. I CAN be tolerable but it will never be ideal.
Now that I have had them on about 20k, the bounce is worse.
In hindsight I would have put shocks on at the same time without a doubt.
Tokico blue's can be bought for $260 on ebay. Just do it!
my ride quality is getting rougher by the mile..i'm dropped on comptech springs and stock shocks w/ at least 45k miles..is the 'bounciness' all i have to worry about? i guess it's tolerable, but if it's a risk to normal everyday driving then i will have to think about getting aftermarket shocks..anyone?
I have the H&R Sports (which are lower then the Comptech drop) with my stocks and I have had no problems with a bouncy ride, etc.....
My buddy also has Comptech springs with stock shocks and he has no bounciness either... so not sure why some people are getting that....
My buddy also has Comptech springs with stock shocks and he has no bounciness either... so not sure why some people are getting that....
I'd say you could get away with replacing just the front strut, and leaving the stock rear.
I feel that since the CT spring is only reducing the amount of travel in the rear by an inch, and it's a progressive spring rate, and that most of the weight of the CL is in the front that you do not need to upgrade the rear shock. Plus, the rear is the easiest to get to if you needed to change the struts later on.
Someone commented on this that it's a horrible idea since the compression and rebound rates are different. I don't buy that. The rebound rate will mostly be governed by the spring rate, and the fact that the shocks have different setting for compression mean compression isn't an issue either.
I feel that since the CT spring is only reducing the amount of travel in the rear by an inch, and it's a progressive spring rate, and that most of the weight of the CL is in the front that you do not need to upgrade the rear shock. Plus, the rear is the easiest to get to if you needed to change the struts later on.
Someone commented on this that it's a horrible idea since the compression and rebound rates are different. I don't buy that. The rebound rate will mostly be governed by the spring rate, and the fact that the shocks have different setting for compression mean compression isn't an issue either.
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