What to do about wheel hop
Thread Starter
Team Owner
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 36,474
Likes: 249
From: Leesburg, Virginia
What to do about wheel hop
When I was at the track my wheels hopped each time I launched. Anywhere from 1800-2000rpm. Tires were around 23psi.
Why does wheel hop occur compared to wheel spin? Is there a way to avoid it/get rid of it completely?
I still had good 60ft times 2.1-2.2 seconds.
Any thoughts?
Why does wheel hop occur compared to wheel spin? Is there a way to avoid it/get rid of it completely?
I still had good 60ft times 2.1-2.2 seconds.
Any thoughts?
I've done some experimenting with wheel hop cures. I filled my motor mounts with urethane and also filled the radius rods with urethane. It didn't totally eliminate the hop but it did reduce it quite a bit.
This is my take on how wheel hop occurs on our cars. When you load the suspension the soft bushings compress. When they reach the end of thier travel the tires break loose. Then the tension on the bushings releases and the tires grab because the soft bushings are again absorbing some of the power. Then they "bottom out" again and the tires break loose and the tension on the bushings realeases again allowing the tires to bite etc. etc. hop, hop, hop. The cure is to get the suspension solidly mounted in the lateral direction. There are radius rod kits that do this for Civics and Integras. THey actually preload the suspension so there is no give when you accelerate. I will probably do something else with this in the future but I'm not sure what to try next. One side effect of filling the radius rod bushings is that the front end bites much better in corners. The stiffer bushings must be keeping the lower arm located more solidly. They still have enough flex to allow some hop if you really dump the clutch.
This is my take on how wheel hop occurs on our cars. When you load the suspension the soft bushings compress. When they reach the end of thier travel the tires break loose. Then the tension on the bushings releases and the tires grab because the soft bushings are again absorbing some of the power. Then they "bottom out" again and the tires break loose and the tension on the bushings realeases again allowing the tires to bite etc. etc. hop, hop, hop. The cure is to get the suspension solidly mounted in the lateral direction. There are radius rod kits that do this for Civics and Integras. THey actually preload the suspension so there is no give when you accelerate. I will probably do something else with this in the future but I'm not sure what to try next. One side effect of filling the radius rod bushings is that the front end bites much better in corners. The stiffer bushings must be keeping the lower arm located more solidly. They still have enough flex to allow some hop if you really dump the clutch.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 36,474
Likes: 249
From: Leesburg, Virginia
Originally posted by ChadT
I've done some experimenting with wheel hop cures. I filled my motor mounts with urethane and also filled the radius rods with urethane. It didn't totally eliminate the hop but it did reduce it quite a bit.
This is my take on how wheel hop occurs on our cars. When you load the suspension the soft bushings compress. When they reach the end of thier travel the tires break loose. Then the tension on the bushings releases and the tires grab because the soft bushings are again absorbing some of the power. Then they "bottom out" again and the tires break loose and the tension on the bushings realeases again allowing the tires to bite etc. etc. hop, hop, hop. The cure is to get the suspension solidly mounted in the lateral direction. There are radius rod kits that do this for Civics and Integras. THey actually preload the suspension so there is no give when you accelerate. I will probably do something else with this in the future but I'm not sure what to try next. One side effect of filling the radius rod bushings is that the front end bites much better in corners. The stiffer bushings must be keeping the lower arm located more solidly. They still have enough flex to allow some hop if you really dump the clutch.
I've done some experimenting with wheel hop cures. I filled my motor mounts with urethane and also filled the radius rods with urethane. It didn't totally eliminate the hop but it did reduce it quite a bit.
This is my take on how wheel hop occurs on our cars. When you load the suspension the soft bushings compress. When they reach the end of thier travel the tires break loose. Then the tension on the bushings releases and the tires grab because the soft bushings are again absorbing some of the power. Then they "bottom out" again and the tires break loose and the tension on the bushings realeases again allowing the tires to bite etc. etc. hop, hop, hop. The cure is to get the suspension solidly mounted in the lateral direction. There are radius rod kits that do this for Civics and Integras. THey actually preload the suspension so there is no give when you accelerate. I will probably do something else with this in the future but I'm not sure what to try next. One side effect of filling the radius rod bushings is that the front end bites much better in corners. The stiffer bushings must be keeping the lower arm located more solidly. They still have enough flex to allow some hop if you really dump the clutch.
I don't dump the clutch.... I'm a auto transmission guy. But I still get gobs of wheel hop at the track. On the street with tires at 32psi I just spin.
Originally posted by mrsteve
I don't dump the clutch.... I'm a auto transmission guy. But I still get gobs of wheel hop at the track. On the street with tires at 32psi I just spin.
I don't dump the clutch.... I'm a auto transmission guy. But I still get gobs of wheel hop at the track. On the street with tires at 32psi I just spin.
Feathering the gas seems to work for me. Lots of practice as far as track times (which I can't speak to) but it sounds easier than filling you car full of plastic or whatever ChadT did?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 36,474
Likes: 249
From: Leesburg, Virginia
Originally posted by blackmagiCL_S
Feathering the gas seems to work for me. Lots of practice as far as track times (which I can't speak to) but it sounds easier than filling you car full of plastic or whatever ChadT did?
Feathering the gas seems to work for me. Lots of practice as far as track times (which I can't speak to) but it sounds easier than filling you car full of plastic or whatever ChadT did?
Could do that, or get Koni adjustables for the front and set them at the track to fully firm. They are firmness adjustable and height adjustable. Steve as an aside I called Capital to run today (Sunday) but they are closed for the season. No wind, cold and good barometer. They will re-open I think in Feb. so I'll try my stab at the 14's then. I've had Koni's on my car for three years now, very good for handling and an easy way to lower the car one inch. Hopefully that would keep your tires planted, but other members may chime in with better ideas. I would consider this a good problem!
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Team Owner
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 36,474
Likes: 249
From: Leesburg, Virginia
Originally posted by Mike
blocking the rear springs helps out.
blocking the rear springs helps out.
And about the Koni's... I'm saving up for them.... anyone know the cheapest place I can get them?? I've got H&R springs just waiting to go on, but the cheapest I've seen Koni's are like $600 for the whole set.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JByron
Car Parts for Sale
7
Jan 8, 2016 09:49 PM



