Video of 6-six speed dyno from Temple of VTEC.. Good info
09-20-2002, 08:01 AM
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Video of 6-six speed dyno from Temple of VTEC.. Good info
09-20-2002, 08:40 AM
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Let me try and summarize for my Acura Brothers
without a broadband connection.
The dyno was of a 03' six-speed. 2 runs were done.
1st run was 213 hp 201 lb-ft coolant temp 180 - 185
2nd run was 206 hp 193 lb-ft coolant temp 200 - 205
They mentioned a couple of factors to think about on dyno runs.
1. Honda engines are VERY sensitive to coolant temps so always consider that on dyno runs.
2. The engine they dnyo'ed had only 1900 miles so it's still green.
3. The six-speed loses more horsepower then a typical open-diff FWD because of the limited slip diff.
Pretty interesting stuff to think about.
without a broadband connection.The dyno was of a 03' six-speed. 2 runs were done.
1st run was 213 hp 201 lb-ft coolant temp 180 - 185
2nd run was 206 hp 193 lb-ft coolant temp 200 - 205
They mentioned a couple of factors to think about on dyno runs.
1. Honda engines are VERY sensitive to coolant temps so always consider that on dyno runs.
2. The engine they dnyo'ed had only 1900 miles so it's still green.
3. The six-speed loses more horsepower then a typical open-diff FWD because of the limited slip diff.
Pretty interesting stuff to think about.
09-20-2002, 10:16 AM
#6
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SLP Scottie
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Scott Van Iten
1997 Bright Red 2 door GTP
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Posted - 09/20/2002 : 12:52:51 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[qoute]I love how you list 'Water Wetter' as a go fast mod.
If your ever in Illinois, let me know. I'll give you 6 and the kick, and than we'll see if you can still 'eat my lunch'.
Scott.[/quote]
this was a post from one of the guys at club GP where im currently looking for some friendly runs...funny how that video would come up so shortly after he made that comment,also funny on how most of the modded GTP's have 180 or 160 T stats ...
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Scott Van Iten
1997 Bright Red 2 door GTP
University of Iowa, IA
USA
Forum member since: 07/31/2001
Posted - 09/20/2002 : 12:52:51 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[qoute]I love how you list 'Water Wetter' as a go fast mod.
If your ever in Illinois, let me know. I'll give you 6 and the kick, and than we'll see if you can still 'eat my lunch'.
Scott.[/quote]
this was a post from one of the guys at club GP where im currently looking for some friendly runs...funny how that video would come up so shortly after he made that comment,also funny on how most of the modded GTP's have 180 or 160 T stats ...
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09-20-2002, 10:33 AM
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Originally posted by hughesne
So is there any thing that we can do to keep the coolant temperatures down?
So is there any thing that we can do to keep the coolant temperatures down?
09-20-2002, 11:36 AM
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One warning concerning a lower temp thermostat is that you don't want the engine running in closed loop because it thinks the engine is too cool and needs to be warmed up.
I'm not sure how much lee way there is with the thermostat and open vs closed loop operation.
If my understanding is correct your engine runs in a warm up mode when you first start it up in order to bring up the temps as quickly as possible which reduces emissions.
Hotter engines are suppossed to produce fewer emissions but at the expense of HP.
I'm not sure how much lee way there is with the thermostat and open vs closed loop operation.
If my understanding is correct your engine runs in a warm up mode when you first start it up in order to bring up the temps as quickly as possible which reduces emissions.
Hotter engines are suppossed to produce fewer emissions but at the expense of HP.
09-20-2002, 12:23 PM
#12
Drifting
Who sells the Mugen radiator cap and thermostat and for how much? Where is the thermostat located in the Type-S motor? How difficult to install? Great info!
09-20-2002, 01:15 PM
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Originally posted by BNut
One warning concerning a lower temp thermostat is that you don't want the engine running in closed loop because it thinks the engine is too cool and needs to be warmed up.
I'm not sure how much lee way there is with the thermostat and open vs closed loop operation.
One warning concerning a lower temp thermostat is that you don't want the engine running in closed loop because it thinks the engine is too cool and needs to be warmed up.
I'm not sure how much lee way there is with the thermostat and open vs closed loop operation.
09-20-2002, 02:18 PM
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Originally posted by scalbert
In the old days, mid eighties, this was more of a concern. But nowadays the ECU can go into closed loop with the ECT as low as 120 F. So a 160 - 180 stat won't make a lick of difference to the ECUs control mode.
In the old days, mid eighties, this was more of a concern. But nowadays the ECU can go into closed loop with the ECT as low as 120 F. So a 160 - 180 stat won't make a lick of difference to the ECUs control mode.
It would be very helpful know what the "magic" temp is that triggers the ECU into switching modes.
Thanks!
09-20-2002, 02:18 PM
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Great 6speed Tech review too:
http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-ar...ticle_id=34679
CL Under Car Commentary (320x240 MPEG1 29.0MB)
http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-ar...ticle_id=34679
CL Under Car Commentary (320x240 MPEG1 29.0MB)
09-20-2002, 02:28 PM
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Originally posted by BNut
Scalbert can you verify via your OBD-II scanner at what coolant temp the ECU switches b/w closed loop and open loop mode?
Scalbert can you verify via your OBD-II scanner at what coolant temp the ECU switches b/w closed loop and open loop mode?
But I assume it is pretty earlier. The light off of the catalyst is pretty quick now along with using heated O2 sensors (which was the reason for the delay, the O2 sensor needs to be hot to measure quickly). This can occur within a minute or less of starting the car.
09-20-2002, 05:47 PM
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Originally posted by BNut
One warning concerning a lower temp thermostat is that you don't want the engine running in closed loop because it thinks the engine is too cool and needs to be warmed up.
I'm not sure how much lee way there is with the thermostat and open vs closed loop operation.
If my understanding is correct your engine runs in a warm up mode when you first start it up in order to bring up the temps as quickly as possible which reduces emissions.
Hotter engines are suppossed to produce fewer emissions but at the expense of HP.
One warning concerning a lower temp thermostat is that you don't want the engine running in closed loop because it thinks the engine is too cool and needs to be warmed up.
I'm not sure how much lee way there is with the thermostat and open vs closed loop operation.
If my understanding is correct your engine runs in a warm up mode when you first start it up in order to bring up the temps as quickly as possible which reduces emissions.
Hotter engines are suppossed to produce fewer emissions but at the expense of HP.
As for the temperature selection: Colder the engine temp, more HP (hot air expands, cold contracts. More air+fuel in = more HP out). The tradeoff is actually fuel economy. Fuel vaporizes and burns better when hot.
Manufacturers usually use a 195F thermostat because it provides the best balance between HP and fuel economy. Of course, if you can get away with more HP, heh! But, you usually need to re-program the computer to adjust timing maps to better utilize the lower temperature.
11-06-2002, 11:57 PM
#21
Happy CL-S Pilot
It make sense to make the operating coolant Temp 180!
means.. I will be additng watter wetter from Redline and the next time I flush the radiator... I guess my CLS hates heat as shown on my Dyno....
means.. I will be additng watter wetter from Redline and the next time I flush the radiator... I guess my CLS hates heat as shown on my Dyno....
11-07-2002, 07:29 AM
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So potentially your initial dyno could have been run with ECT values above 200 F. Then with the three hour cool down with the hood open during the header install the ECT reading could have been down to about or below 170 - 180 F on the second pull??
That could make a difference based on what they witnessed in this video and could be the reasoning for the lower than expected baseline run.
Is this what you were getting at
??
That could make a difference based on what they witnessed in this video and could be the reasoning for the lower than expected baseline run.
Is this what you were getting at
??
11-07-2002, 07:36 AM
#23
Happy CL-S Pilot
Yep... and this why I am interested in redynoing...
Also, I think my CLS cooled for some good 2 hrs before the second run.. but the engine coolant may stayed very hot as the car was in the shop... Also, I still doubts the weather conditions read by the dyno... I still remeber that the dyno was reading humidity in 40%s to 50%s where the Acutual Humidity was 85%+
And do not forget I was dynoing with heavy rims/tires...
Also, I think my CLS cooled for some good 2 hrs before the second run.. but the engine coolant may stayed very hot as the car was in the shop... Also, I still doubts the weather conditions read by the dyno... I still remeber that the dyno was reading humidity in 40%s to 50%s where the Acutual Humidity was 85%+
And do not forget I was dynoing with heavy rims/tires...
11-07-2002, 07:50 AM
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It would be nice o see a second dyno, damn the costs though...
I'm going back to the dyno to re-test my car. In addition I was going to test the differences between the stock intake without the resonator and then with my custom box. Lastly I was going to pull the fan switch connector to let the coolant temps increase and then make another run to verify this loss.
I should have mine done within the next month.
I'm going back to the dyno to re-test my car. In addition I was going to test the differences between the stock intake without the resonator and then with my custom box. Lastly I was going to pull the fan switch connector to let the coolant temps increase and then make another run to verify this loss.
I should have mine done within the next month.
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