V-AFC in sunglass holder
V-AFC in sunglass holder
Im getting a V-AFC soon and know someone on this forum has it stashed inside his sunglass holder up top....I was wondering if the sunglass holder shut after you put it in there? Any pics would be nice too
Guy i have a question about the initial settings of the VAFC. It has to do with the number of cylinders and all that other stuff. Does any one know what to set everything at when i firt install it. I will be taking it to the dyno to get it tuned.
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Titan,
You want initially all values to be set at 0 for fuel/air adjustments.
The cylinder # setting should be 6 with an up arrow.
The redline should be at 7100rpm.
The vtec should be at 4800rpm.
If you search I think I posted my settings when i had tuned it for just intake and headers.
You want initially all values to be set at 0 for fuel/air adjustments.
The cylinder # setting should be 6 with an up arrow.
The redline should be at 7100rpm.
The vtec should be at 4800rpm.
If you search I think I posted my settings when i had tuned it for just intake and headers.
Originally posted by mattg
i tend to agree w/ astro.
fastvtec, do you think i would see gains w/ V-AFC ?
i tend to agree w/ astro.
fastvtec, do you think i would see gains w/ V-AFC ?
nothing big right away, but the more mods you get the more it helps you tune your car..
i got 7hp form the V-AFC with just I/H/E/P
Mattg,
Youll realistically see 2-3hp from iridiums but when you take everything as an aggregate in mods you can tune your car for a leaner mixture down low and a slightly richer mixture up high...
Youll realistically see 2-3hp from iridiums but when you take everything as an aggregate in mods you can tune your car for a leaner mixture down low and a slightly richer mixture up high...
Originally posted by mattg
TMM, would i see gains from iridium plugs?
TMM, would i see gains from iridium plugs?
no, i don't have time to explain it to you all the settings and what they do..
go to www.apexi-usa.com for more info
Geeze... grouch arent we today....
Mattg:
What you can do with the VAFC .... Modify VTEC engagement rpm point (when vtec kicks in), VTEC disengagement rpm point (when vtec drops back out), fuel mixture ratio (its not a perfect method but it is relatively effective one to a point)
There are no universal setting that work ... everythi9ng has an effect on how your car responds to the air/fuel and vtec settings from the way the cars broken in, mileage, trans slippage %, tires etc... the only effective way to tune it is have all your mods installed and then have it tuned on a dyno with a tap for exhaust and obdii monitoring
Mattg:
What you can do with the VAFC .... Modify VTEC engagement rpm point (when vtec kicks in), VTEC disengagement rpm point (when vtec drops back out), fuel mixture ratio (its not a perfect method but it is relatively effective one to a point)
There are no universal setting that work ... everythi9ng has an effect on how your car responds to the air/fuel and vtec settings from the way the cars broken in, mileage, trans slippage %, tires etc... the only effective way to tune it is have all your mods installed and then have it tuned on a dyno with a tap for exhaust and obdii monitoring
I have Comptech Headers and Exhaust as well as the AEM Cai and Denso Iridium plugs...I have the V-AFC installed on my TL-S right now..I had it installed on my CL-S also...
after tuning it on the dyno, I scored a massive 4hp and 3ft/lbs of torque by tuning it...not worth the money you pay for it IMO....unless of course you plan to go forced induction, or with major custom motor work...for just bolt ons, it's not necessary...
and this is coming from someone who can afford to spend money on somewhat frivilous mods...not even from someone working hard to decide which mod to get next...
after tuning it on the dyno, I scored a massive 4hp and 3ft/lbs of torque by tuning it...not worth the money you pay for it IMO....unless of course you plan to go forced induction, or with major custom motor work...for just bolt ons, it's not necessary...
and this is coming from someone who can afford to spend money on somewhat frivilous mods...not even from someone working hard to decide which mod to get next...
Astroboy:
Ok but you have to admit at least 15hp in points and imrc opening... if you didnt see at least a leveling of the 3800rpm dip in your dyno it may not have been configured correctly.
Ok but you have to admit at least 15hp in points and imrc opening... if you didnt see at least a leveling of the 3800rpm dip in your dyno it may not have been configured correctly.
Originally posted by TheModMole
Not going there ... it will resurrect another holy war ... ask about that in pm if anywhere .. thnx
Not going there ... it will resurrect another holy war ... ask about that in pm if anywhere .. thnx
the only way it would start a war is if you can't prove your times.. if you can will give you props and say good run...
but people like to bullshit about there times
Hey its cool....i did get my answers...actually, i was wondering how you got the thing to look flush in the holder, webtoker's looks like I thought it would, but yours looks flush....another is what are your 1/4mile times?
To get the flush mounted look I used a dremel and cut out the face of the sunglass holder so that it only had the sides left. The I used an epoxy clay to rough mold to the shape of the vafc frame. After about 8 hours the expoxy clay hardens and binds to the plastic of the sunglass holder and I used a steel file to do a rough shaping, this is when i made it follow the half round contour of the orriginal but left it beveled for the vafc. Then I sanded it down and finally steel wool rubbed it down. Last step was painting and then mounting the vafc inside.. it was a snug fit but i used 3M double sided body tape to fasten it in securely hjust in case.
My track times ranged from 13.39 to a 14.XX .. im not going to justify or explain a whole lot becuase unless somebody is there witnessing and videographing the entire process there will always be somebody that just doesnt beleive it... Iv raced a few folks from here and other boards who have 13.X second cars and had varying results of wins and losses... including a few posts of it from me and the other party. And the 13.39 was my car with radials and a pretty bare interior free of rear seats, bone empty trunk and running 1 gallon of tuolene on 94 octane. All mods installed
My track times ranged from 13.39 to a 14.XX .. im not going to justify or explain a whole lot becuase unless somebody is there witnessing and videographing the entire process there will always be somebody that just doesnt beleive it... Iv raced a few folks from here and other boards who have 13.X second cars and had varying results of wins and losses... including a few posts of it from me and the other party. And the 13.39 was my car with radials and a pretty bare interior free of rear seats, bone empty trunk and running 1 gallon of tuolene on 94 octane. All mods installed
Originally posted by TheModMole
To get the flush mounted look I used a dremel and cut out the face of the sunglass holder so that it only had the sides left. The I used an epoxy clay to rough mold to the shape of the vafc frame. After about 8 hours the expoxy clay hardens and binds to the plastic of the sunglass holder and I used a steel file to do a rough shaping, this is when i made it follow the half round contour of the orriginal but left it beveled for the vafc. Then I sanded it down and finally steel wool rubbed it down. Last step was painting and then mounting the vafc inside.. it was a snug fit but i used 3M double sided body tape to fasten it in securely hjust in case.
My track times ranged from 13.39 to a 14.XX .. im not going to justify or explain a whole lot becuase unless somebody is there witnessing and videographing the entire process there will always be somebody that just doesnt beleive it... Iv raced a few folks from here and other boards who have 13.X second cars and had varying results of wins and losses... including a few posts of it from me and the other party. And the 13.39 was my car with radials and a pretty bare interior free of rear seats, bone empty trunk and running 1 gallon of tuolene on 94 octane. All mods installed
To get the flush mounted look I used a dremel and cut out the face of the sunglass holder so that it only had the sides left. The I used an epoxy clay to rough mold to the shape of the vafc frame. After about 8 hours the expoxy clay hardens and binds to the plastic of the sunglass holder and I used a steel file to do a rough shaping, this is when i made it follow the half round contour of the orriginal but left it beveled for the vafc. Then I sanded it down and finally steel wool rubbed it down. Last step was painting and then mounting the vafc inside.. it was a snug fit but i used 3M double sided body tape to fasten it in securely hjust in case.
My track times ranged from 13.39 to a 14.XX .. im not going to justify or explain a whole lot becuase unless somebody is there witnessing and videographing the entire process there will always be somebody that just doesnt beleive it... Iv raced a few folks from here and other boards who have 13.X second cars and had varying results of wins and losses... including a few posts of it from me and the other party. And the 13.39 was my car with radials and a pretty bare interior free of rear seats, bone empty trunk and running 1 gallon of tuolene on 94 octane. All mods installed
i don't know about you but if i ran a 13.3 i would make sure someone was there to see it. LIKE I DID WITH MY 13.6
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