...and exact weight.

 

crank pulley.

 

i will post the weight of the stock pulleys next week.

 

Pulley installed

 

titand19, how are the pulleys? tell us what your impressions are.


more power?
engine smoothness, etc

 

How do you like em'?

 

They are great. I can feel a decent amount of power in 1st. In 4th when the VTEC kicks in, i feel a jerk fro the power. It might be my imagination, but it never did that b4. They ride is exactly the same. I tried to take a pic of the crank, but i's under everything. The alt pulley didn't fit, but UR will send you guys a new one when they make it. Don't worry. I'm going back for the after dyno on the 15th.

 

WHERE CAN I GET THE PULLIES SEND ME A WEB LINK PLEASE

 

Do you guys think it's worth it to get all of the pulleys or just the main crank pulley?

The site: http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/

 

if your going to get the crank pulley you should get the whole set. especially since accessory pulleys are not underdriven they are just lighter.

 

according to my bathroom scale the stock crank is 10lbs....done by weighing myself with then w/o holding the pulley
if true ,that's over 8 lbs savings in the crank alone.

 

You can actually feel a difference

 

Do you have them?

 

I think he just missed a question mark after his post

 

DAMN!


ok, after saying that you're getting me more and more interested in the pulleys!

Stop it TypeR! :P

 

Titand19, were gonna have to meet up again. i wanna scope out your car.

 

Wow they do look NICE!!!!! However, you people are going to shoot yourselves in the foot if that thing isn't balanced correctly you'll end up having engine failure like those M3's are having. Snapped rods, bearings, oil....you name it!

Good luck and BECAREFUL!

 

Hmmm... can someone give me the diameter... I'll see if I can get a "rough" approximation for its rotational inertia and do a few calcs (in reference to the gear ratio and wheel weight change for example)...

 

i so agree

this mod requires special attention while being installed

although i may have all the right tools to put those bad boys on i dont think i would want to

sidemarker

 

if, if, if. i'm sure you will be ordering a set soon.

 

eric, the od of the crank pulley is 5 3/4"
where the belt seats is a 1/4" less than that.

 

Yeah, for all those who say that it would be umbalanced, just look at the stock ones an the those shinning beauties ( I got a set too ) You will see the that the quality is 10X better, now talk about being balanced!

 

No way bro I might be looking to trade up to a 6MT in the winter so i don't want to take the risk of something going wrong. Even if i wasn't I don't think i'd take the risk. I'm sure you get a shop to balance it for you but w/o that i wouldn't take the risk...but that's just me....

 

Zapata your right they look nice and all but they are not balanced that is why they say for racing only not street use!!! as i said before i had them on my prelude 2.2vtec and they took a little time to destroy the oil pump but it did. and also a friend of mine had them on his 2.2vtec and he went through 2 oil pumps befor we figured it out. i spoke UR about that and they were suppose to make a pulley that worked. yes it looks nice better than stock. but stock is balanced. check and see if it race only then you will have your answer!!! If UR what tell you then good luck!!!

 

the SS line of pullies is designed for street application according to UR.

 

SS = street set, and they are supposed to be perfectly balanced. i guess we'll find out.

 

So far my car has been fine. It's been 200 miles since UR put them on. I'll let you know how everything is after i get the after dyno on sat.

 

<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular" size="4"><b>Myths About Honda/Miata Oil Pump Failures</b></font></p>
<div align="center">
<div align="left">
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">A number of rumors have been floating around about Honda oil pumps failing due to the use of an Unorthodox Racing Lightened Underdrive pulley. The fact is that these pumps have been failing with AND WITHOUT the use of our pulleys, even before our product was available on the market. Also note that these failures are few and far in between. The Acura/Honda oil pumps are excellent units, but there are a number of reasons for the failures that do occur.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">Most of the oil pump failures have been in Acura/Honda B series 1.6/1.8L applications. The Mazda 1.6/1.8L applications have seen a few failures, as well as the new Ford Focus ZETEC in race vehicles. Again, note that on all these applications the oil pump failures have occurred on engines not using our pulley, using the stock crank pulley.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular"><b>These pump failures can be linked to the following issues. These issues may act individually or in combination to cause the failures:</b></font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">1) The gears used in many pumps including those in the Honda B series engines and Mazda Miata engines are of a low-cost powdered metal composition. The factory uses this metal because of its acceptable cost-to-strength ratio. The problem is, these parts are not always deburred properly from the factory and when pushed to their limits can fail.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">2)</font> <font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">Many times additional stress is added to the oil pump by using oil thicker than what is specified by the manufacturer. The oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed from the factory to push oil of higher viscosities. This extra stress on the gears, combined with the above mentioned poor deburring process, can attribute to oil pump failure or engine failure.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">3) Another contributing factor to oil pump failures is the weak cast backing plate of the B16/B18 oil pumps. Simple inspection shows that when compared to an H22 oil pump, a screw is not present in a critical location of the plate in the B series pumps. Compound this with the use of a higher viscosity motor oil and poorly deburred pump components and you have the ingredients for an oil pump failure.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">4) </font><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">This issue, specific to the Mazda 1.6/1.8L engines, involves the flex of the crankshaft and the lower half of the engine due to the additional stress of a forced induction system (such as a turbo or supercharger). The additional stress produced by forced induction causes flexing of both the block and the crankshaft between the front main bearing and the oil pump. This can also contribute to oil pump failure. Early Miatas were notorious for having crankshaft problems and later models suffered from problems as HP was increased significantly.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">5) Lastly, any failure inside a motor, related to aging components or a poor engine rebuild, can cause the oil pump to fail. ANY particles passing through an oil pump design such as that used in the Honda B series engines will cause damage or failure.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular"><b>Remember that these oil pump failures have been seen with engines using a factory crank pulley. To help combat these failures, a few steps should be taken to help prolong the life of your oil pump and engine:</b></font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">1) Unless building a race motor with race clearances in mind, you should always use an oil viscosity matching, or as close to the factory recommendations as possible.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">2) If using a factory oil pump, always have your oil pump components deburred properly. It is recommended you have a competent engine rebuilder handle this.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">3) For those who run dedicated / extreme race vehicles we recommend using an external wet or dry sump oiling system. These systems are designed for the heavy abuse a race engine receives on the track. Remember, the stock oiling systems were designed for factory horsepower levels and can only handle a certain amount of power increase over that level.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">4) Lastly and most obvious, have a competent, trusted machine or performance shop rebuild your precious motor. It only takes one simple mistake to turn a costly engine rebuild into a doorstop.</font></p>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular">If you have any other questions about this subject please don't hesitate to <a href="contactus.html">give us a call or drop us an e-mail</a>. We take great pride in the craftsmanship of our products and are constantly striving to provide the highest quality products available to you, our customers.</font></p>

Source: http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/faq_oil.html

 

Good luck to all who use them and the add from UR is because they got sued so many times for this!!! if they new there was a problem with the select honda motors then why make them!!! stop and think about that. i hope all works for you guy's keep us updated!!!!