allmotor_2000

The next logical choice for more power (without increasing boost or to even allow the possibility of more boost) is to upgrade the ignition system. Basically there
does not appear to be any system out there for our motor.

The AEM system comes close but won't work with our coils because we have an integrated ignitor. I called the AEM tech-line and they don't appear to know anything! They can't even recommend me a replacement coil or any sort of application support.

Anyways, its time to do some investigation - anybody done any research on this topic?

Essentially I am stuck at ~6psi. The last time I tried 7.5psi, I get bad misfires at the VTEC changeover and thereafter. It's not detonation as I used 100-octane gas... I consistently get the P1399 code and can feel it as well.

I think even at current boost levels, an additional 15-20hp can be gained by burning the fuel better.

allmotor_2000

The other side is that the factory system is good enough... I have some other issue prohibiting me from running more boost...

Time For Sleeep

always exciting to see you squeeze a few more hp out of your set up motor.

AcCoRdCoUpE2k1

ram, we meet again. =) haha. come down to the shop next time at RB motoring, that's where I go to get all my work done. My mechanic has extensive knowledge of the J series engines and may be able to help you out. We're in the process of trying to get AEM to make an EMS for our engines, I'm sure he may be able to help answer some questions. He's the guy that helped me drop the J32A2 + 6spd into my accord.

allmotor_2000

Hey, PM me with their info.

Habib

allmotor ask Aidan (the guy accordcoupe2k1 is talking about) for a clutch like tony's its a 6 puck and grabs very very good. Shop is also called 5150 Autosports. ph. # is 626-806-5150

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

AEM EMS = no OBD2

allmotor_2000

The problem is not the clutch... what about the pressure plate?!?

allmotor_2000

Stuff I know so far:

i. You have to replace all the coils - our coils have an integrated ignitor... which is a no-no
ii. You can use Honda CBR coils (motorcycle)
iii. Now the issue is fitment!

Chemmech

Have you considered upgrading the fuel system (larger; lines/fuel pump more volume) ?

Chemmech

oops, forgot you have an extra injector.

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=allmotor_2000]The next logical choice for more power (without increasing boost or to even allow the possibility of more boost) is to upgrade the ignition system. Basically there
does not appear to be any system out there for our motor.

The AEM system comes close but won't work with our coils because we have an integrated ignitor. I called the AEM tech-line and they don't appear to know anything! They can't even recommend me a replacement coil or any sort of application support.

Anyways, its time to do some investigation - anybody done any research on this topic?

Essentially I am stuck at ~6psi. The last time I tried 7.5psi, I get bad misfires at the VTEC changeover and thereafter. It's not detonation as I used 100-octane gas... I consistently get the i

i thought u had 2 much power as it is already, u want moooooooreeeee ennn ?????????????????/ So how much is the car putting down now? bcos with more HP u would even have more clucth, plate and transmission/drivability problems.....still on that stock tran......

Chemmech

What's a code p1399? Is that a random missfire, or running too rich?

Habib

Aidan has something going on w/ pressure plate as well. I think it may be ready very soon.

NiteQwill

It's an all cylinder misfire. I had the same code pop up after my Thermoblok install. Went away after clearing.

Smitty

if your getting that with the PnP pluggedin and the e-manage then you need to lay the PnP FLAT... it is a bad connection on the PnP... I have the same issue... Need to send the PnP back to Steve so he can throw it on the bench and fix it.

allmotor_2000

It only misfires when I try to boost more... > 7psi. Otherwise its fine.

typeR

i recorded a show about sema and it had coil packs on there from some company...ill re watch it and find out the name

Chemmech

Allmotor, I don't know if this helps, but my car was missfirng also. I had a couple of different missfire codes. Anyway, since I upgraded the fuel system to an AN6 size hose and larger pump, I haven't had the car missfire again. I'm only running 91 octane, with no missfires or detonation . I'm running the HBP, not sure what pressures I'm maxed at, maybe someone with Scalberts kit and a boost gauge can chime in?

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

You should be around 8-9psi if you are running the Comptech HBP and the blower shaft pulley included with Steve's IC kit.

Chemmech

Yeah I'm running both pulleys, the hbp and the upgraded alternator pulley.

allmotor_2000

Hmm... my AFR was reading fine. Which hose did you change to AN-6? The one from the tank to the FPR? I suppose you ran it under the car? Also, which pump did you change to... I have the Walbro, but I don't think it can support this much power at 90psi fuel pressure.

If you have any pictures and details of your fuel system upgrade, please share.

allmotor_2000

Maybe what I need to do is put in the larger injectors and run very low fuel pressure... the pump can flow much more fuel at lower rail pressures. But then again... the fuel line is only soo big!

Smitty

Larger squirters and back to the factory FPR..

I will let you know the price I land for the 360cc injectors...
if you need some, just let me know.

Chemmech

1 Russell Twist-Lok ''AN'' Hose Ends - -06AN Hose End
799-624340 $17.99 $17.99
7 Russell Twist-Lok ''AN'' Hose Ends - -06AN Hose End
799-624010 $5.49 $38.43
1 Jeg's ''AN'' Union Adapter & Reducer Fittings - -6 AN to -8 AN Flare Reducer
555-100212 $4.99 $4.99
1 Russell Hose Support Cushion Clamps - -06AN Cushion Clamps; 10/pkg
799-650980 $12.99 $12.99
1 Russell Twist-Lok ''AN'' Hose Ends - -06AN Hose End
799-624160 $11.99 $11.99
2 Jeg's ''AN'' Union Adapter & Reducer Fittings - -6 AN Flare Union
555-100202 $3.69 $7.38
1 Russell ''AN Male to AN Male Bulkhead'' Adapter Fittings & Nuts - -06AN Male to -06AN Male Bulkhead Fitting
Straight
Endura Finish
799-661181
$7.99 $7.99
1 Russell ''AN Male to AN Male Bulkhead'' Adapter Fittings & Nuts - -06AN Bulkhead Nut
9/16-18 Thread
Anodized Finish
799-661890
$4.69 $4.69
1 Jeg's ''AN'' Union Adapter & Reducer Fittings - -4 AN to -6 AN Flare Reducer
555-100211 $3.99 $3.99
1 Russell Twist-Lok Hose - -06AN
799-634160 $69.99 $69.99
1 Painless Wiring Electric Fuel Pump Relay - Fuel Pump Relay
764-50102 $26.99 $26.99
1 Aeromotive 800 HP EFI Fuel Pump - 700 HP EFI Fuel Pump 30 to 65 PSI
027-11106 $292.99 $292.99
2 System-1 Billet Aluminum Fuel Filters - Pro Street Inline Fuel Filter
-06 AN Ends
888-201406
$89.99 $179.98

Chemmech

I also still have the intank pump providing a sort of boost to keep the pressure high, because I'm still running stock injectors. I had run the car without the intank pump for awhile; however, at the upper revs the pwer dropped off alittle so I decided to also run the intank pump, with good results. The new pump provides way more volume, but at a lower pressure.

Here's the pump I installed:

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

I ran AN6 from in the tank to the manifold at the fuel rail, with the intank pump plumbed parallel.

The setup ran about $650 +.

I felt the gains immediately, at low rpms to all the way up high. It felt like I had dropped in a v-8 engine under the hood, alot more bottom end torque.

Chemmech

Sorry about the link here's the Aeromotive part # AEI-11106

Chemmech

with the larger hose you'll need a bigger pump. 5/16" to AN-6 ~(3/8") is quite a jump

allmotor_2000

Did you weld into the fuel tank... I suppose the fuel pump is somewhere under the car or in the engine-bay? So.. you are running two pumps in paralle... wow! Have you dyno'd your car yet?

Chemmech

Uhh, the fuel pump and 2 filters are in the trunk right now. I know it's not exactly the safest place for it, but it all looks real cool, (don't know if I can stand to see it beat up by the elements under the car. I didn't weld into the tank, I used a bulkhead, o-ring & nut to seal up the port I drilled into the plastic mount for the fuel pump and sender.

I just "y'ed" the original hose into the hose that goes into the fuel regulator. Yes, I know I really need to dyno this car. I'll try to get one done this week.

I'm thinking of using the old actuator that opens up at 4800 rpm to run the stocker pump, so that way I won't wear my alternator out . Maybe I'll do that this weekend too.

allmotor_2000

I don't think your alternator is going to complain about a second pump.. be it somewhat beefy! Sometimes making sure the in-tank pump gets a true +12V makes a big difference!

-=SoCalV6=-

Eh, sorry to barge in, but is the 11106 truly necessary or is the 11101 sufficient?

Also, have you considered utilizing 16302 Voltage Controller to maintain sufficient voltage to your aei or stock pumps?

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

That's an interesting way of doing it. It seems to me that putting a much higher output fuel pump after a lower output pump is sort of self defeating. While it appears to have worked, I don't think your getting the most out of the newer pump.
*
Sort of like hurlysurfs ported throttle body where he ported the TB to the butterfly, but left the stock size butterfly. Don't take that wrong, I like taking a shots at him and your by no means in his class.
*
The pump you bought flows 600 pounds per hour (pph). Doesn't the pump in your tank flow 255 LPH if it's the comptech/walbro pump. Dont know what that convert is in reference to pph, but sounds a lot less than 600 pph. Is this rough calculation correct for those in the know? 3.785 liters per gallon. 255Liters/3.785 = 67-68 gal per hour. I'm guessing gas weighs in about 6 pounds per gallon. soo... 67x6=402 pounds.
402 pph pumping to a pump that pumps 600 pph.
*
It just seems your depriving the aeromotive pump it's effective output. Any thoughts anyone?
*
I like your thinking on adding this pump. It is on the table for me as well, except I'll be elimating the pump in the tank and using 2 fpr's where each one is receiving a signal from two different sources. Your SC'd though and you only need one fpr, but I think you'd be more correct in using just the one pump and eliminate the one in the tank.

allmotor_2000

He's running them in parallel... not using the large pump as a 'booster' - in which case its not going to help.

I really thing the 255lph is pretty adequate. Gas weighs 6.5 lbs / gallon <=> 1.72 lbs / liter.

So, a 255lph ~= 438 pph. This is good enough for 500-600hp. Now at higher fuel pressures, the Walbro efficiency drops off... but then so does the Aeromotive. The trick is to keep it <70psi under max boost.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

I see. Is he tapping the fuel in parellel after the walbro pump or does he have a separate feed line into the tank that is a separate feed to the aeromotive pump, a direct unrestricted source of fuel to the aeromotive pump? Still not clear on his install. Hope that's a clear question. Tapping into the fuel line after the intank pump IMO would not be utilizing the aeromotive pump effectively and would diminish it's results. The aeromotive pump alone should be enough to cover the ineffciencies of the walbro at higher pressures with more than enough cushion for fuel pressure adjustment.

allmotor_2000

He is has tapped into the fuel-tank with a separate pick-up. The only connection it has to the stock fuel system is at the FPR where both lines feed in together at a 'Y'. Generally people have two FPR's and two independant fuel-rails when running two pumps, but this should be okay as well.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

vedy intervesting, if it gits the job done, let it ride.

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

just wondering how many miles per gallaon would u get after that setup???.
Two pumps running in parallel.
i know more fuel = more power
same as air esp when running boost
it would sought of help if they could be wired so that u can turn the extra or 600pph pump off (no +12V) at will. that way u can definately get the best of both worlds. kind off like the advantage of a electronic boost controller.

02AV6

Hey bro, right after the last run on the track this Tuesday (in signature ) I had a CEL flashed like 3 times and went steady. So, last night went to Autozone, they scan it (need to get one) and came up with P1399 which reads as "Manufacturer Control Ignition System or Misfire". They erase it and so far it didn't come back up.

So the harness causing this shit?

Chemmech

About the code 1399. If it continues after the repair to the pnp it could be a fuel problem. Just about every one out there with a tl/cl boosted higher than 5 psi has had this code. I think it has something to do with our engines being high compression or running a bit lean. Maybe too much heat in the cylinders ?
Since I upgrded my fuel system, I haven't had any missfire codes whatsoevar (on 91 octane). I've been pretty hard on the throttle, with no missfires or pinging, so I know my problems gone .