Hey guys,

Tranny problem is done. So I decided to get back to "fun" car work, and decided to throw on the type s manifold I had laying around. However, after putting the new manifold and throttle body on, the car is reving itself like crazy while in park.

It's reving all the way to 5000 rpm, up and down up and down. Could this be a bad IACV or TPS sensor? I have yet to swap out the sensors, but would like to get some insight if anyone's had this experience before. Thanks again.

 

Check for a vacuum line disconnected or something obvious like brake booster line disconnected.

Check your gaskets as well. Spray carb cleaner on all the areas that were exposed between the manifold swap. If your idle changes that's where your leak is.

 

I checked all the vacuum hoses and didn't see anything obvious leaking. However I did notice one of the vacuum ports that goes into the throttle body, is located in a different place than the non type s throttle body. I will check that hose again tomorrow morning, along with the gaskets that you mentioned. Will also try the sensors as well.

 

I cannot see a bad tps making the car rev to that extent. I would have to say a vac line got mixed up or the iac is messed up. If you want to know if the iac or the tps is giving you troubles. Usually unplugging it will change the symptoms.

 

I am curious if you put type s IM on a CLP, what did you do with butterfly? Wire it up with rpm switch, remove it, or run with it always closed?

 

Sounds like the iacv. Try cleaning the carbon off

 

Ok guys, replaced the IACV, no change. However, after unplugging it, it didn't rev by itself anymore. I also changed cleaned the port on the TB. I reset the ecu, went over the vacuum hoses with carb spray, no change in idle, but I'm sure there is a vac leak as there was no pressure on my gas pedal, totally limp.

I propped open the butterfly until my rpm switch arrives from ebay. I did add two new extended studs because the ones for the original manifold were too short.

I have different hose clamps on each hose, and remember where they go accordingly, so didn't mix anything up. Still stumped.....I guess swapping back the TB and manifold to see if that solves the problem? Could it be the new studs? Butterfly? Faulty TB?

Also wanted to add, I swapped out gaskets too, and bled system. Maybe time to do the coolent bypass some I don't keep losing pressure/fluid..

 

Maybe you used studs that are too long or over-tightened. That could cause a Crack in the runner and this issue. This is pretty common if you aren't careful. I would remove the IM and inspect runners...If runners look fine then install old IM and see if problem still persists.

 

You sure you have not mixed up the connectors maybe? This is possible. And it happens. So don't rule that one out also

 

Giving this a go in a couple hours, can't sleep for shit, waiting for sunrise, lol.

 

Especially the GASKET, IN. MANIFOLD (UPPER) #11 shown on the link below:

Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

Make sure the 'tab' that protrudes out on the right hand side, near the TB, is to the REAR. Often this can be accidently flipped over and can cause issues.

 

there's a couple tricks you can try, like spritzing water in areas on the IM to see if the idle changes

 

Ok guys, thanks for all the help and input.

I have my idle almost back to normal. It's now just jumping to 2k rpm very slowly, and I believe i just need to further burp the coolant system and it should be back to normal. I can now shift and drive.

Just to confirm - there in no bleeder bolt on top of the thermostat housing? Or is there? I'll run the heater, and squeeze radiator hose like I did yesterday (for almost 40 minutes). It slowly got better, but is there a more efficient way?

I changed all hoses, made sure the manifold gasket wasn't flipped, loosened throttle cable screws, cleaned valves again, cleaned and greased cables - did not have to put on old manifold.

 

I don't think coolant cause cause the idle to be to be that wonky.

To bleed the system you have done it correctly. Squeeze the lower has hose slightly to release bubbles, blip the throttle at the tb . And just wait it out. Also make sure the coolant reservoir is at half. It will get lower and go higher once it is closed up depending on the temp of the rad system.

When the car is cold are the rpms acting differently vs when the car is at fell temp?

 

I purchased a funnel that attaches to Radiator to burp coolant. Makes it easier to avoid overspill. Will post up here and my build thread with pics when I do it again.

 

Throttle body gasket!!! Ugh! I guess me taking off and on the throttle body made the tiniest rip in the new gasket I got. I had a p2r gasket from my old throttle body which was too small for the type s TB, so I picked up regular gasket from oreily which ended up having a slight rip.

I bought some gasket material, made my own oversized gasket and used extra RTV for safe measure - im now idling perfectly! Riding smooth again!

By the way, LOVE the type s manifold, even without the RPM switch installed, throttle response is so much better. I didn't need to shorten my intake either, just used a coupler.

One last inquiry - j32a1 + type s manifold + mdx spacer = hood clearance issues ? Or is this just for the j32a2?