Transmission Fluid
06-14-2001, 06:22 PM
#1
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Transmission Fluid
My car is at the dealer today, getting an oil, the auto-down windown not working looked at, as well as sunroof sounds again. I also asked them to check the tranny fluid and was told thats its a bit dirty, could use a replacement. My car has 15k on it. They want 49.95+tax for it, is it worth it or should I do it myself at independent garage?
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The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status or ethnic background, is that deep down inside, we ALL believe that we are above average drivers.
06-14-2001, 06:25 PM
#2
Cajun Gumbo Man
You MUST use the Acura/Honda Transmission Fluid ! DID YOU READ THE MANUAL ! I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole ! Don't mess with your warranty.......if your trany goes and they find out some "garage" did it, you COULD be screwed !
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"We're spoiled rotten"
Waiting for 6 speed manual CLS !
2001 CL Type S Black/Ebony w/NAVI, PIAA bulbs, Tinted windows, JL Sub-woofer/Fosgate 250 watt amp, Comptech Sway Bars,Kyocera Smartphone/Palm powered otherwise pure stock/PIF (Paid In Full)
1998 Accord Coupe EX-V6
Black Currant Pearl, PIAA bulbs, tinted windows, Fosgate 500 watt amp, Eclipes 6X9's,JL Sub-woofer, otherwise PURE stock/PIF (Paid In Full)!
06-14-2001, 06:27 PM
#3
It is very important that you use the Honda/Acura oil. As for the 49.95 charge- that seems fair for the job- including labor and parts.
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Wayne Gruen
Service Manager
Park Ave Acura
*** The opinions expressed above are my own and I in no way speak for American Honda or Acura. ***
2002 TL-S Black on Black
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Tuning by Jens
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Wayne Gruen
Service Manager
Park Ave Acura
*** The opinions expressed above are my own and I in no way speak for American Honda or Acura. ***
2002 TL-S Black on Black
Factory Body Kit, Factory Spoiler, Comptech Springs, Comptech Sways, Comptech Headers, Comptech Exhaust, Xephyr CAI
Tuning by Jens
06-14-2001, 06:29 PM
#4
Senior Moderator
how would they find out???it looks like tranny fluid smells like tranny fluid must be tranny fluid...what are the gonna do ? a gas chromatigraph test on it???
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'01 3.2 CL typeS
H&R o.e.'s 1.0/1.0
AEM cold air w/bypass
---PIAA 19224----
satin silver metalic
Llumar platinum plus
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GS-R,87 GT,supra...and more to come
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06-14-2001, 06:31 PM
#5
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Can I buy that fluid myself from them and just have the shop put it in? I dont think those kinds of maintenance deserve $72.00/hour charge. How tough is it to replace anyway?
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http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...513&a=12224080
The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status or ethnic background, is that deep down inside, we ALL believe that we are above average drivers.
[This message has been edited by Big_Pimp's_Type_S (edited 06-14-2001).]
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http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...513&a=12224080
The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status or ethnic background, is that deep down inside, we ALL believe that we are above average drivers.
[This message has been edited by Big_Pimp's_Type_S (edited 06-14-2001).]
06-14-2001, 06:36 PM
#6
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I changed the tranny oil myself two weeks ago and it took me 20 minutes. Of course I used Honda/Acura ATF. The old oil was dirty too and there was quie a bit of metal deposit on the magnet of the drain plug. I was happy to have done it, not to mention saving the $$.
As for the $72.00/hr charge, it's a joke, but people pay it and dealers take advantage of it.
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2001 Silver CL-S
[This message has been edited by Beach-CL (edited 06-14-2001).]
As for the $72.00/hr charge, it's a joke, but people pay it and dealers take advantage of it.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Big_Pimp's_Type_S:
Can I buy that fluid myself from them and just have the shop put it in? I dont think those kinds of maintenance deserve $72.00/hour charge. How tough is it to replace anyway?
</font>
Can I buy that fluid myself from them and just have the shop put it in? I dont think those kinds of maintenance deserve $72.00/hour charge. How tough is it to replace anyway?
</font>
2001 Silver CL-S
[This message has been edited by Beach-CL (edited 06-14-2001).]
06-14-2001, 06:41 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Beach-CL:
I changed the tranny oil myself two weeks ago and it took me 20 minutes. Of course I used Honda/Acura ATF. The old oil was dirty too and there was quie a bit of metal deposit on the magnet of the drain plug. I was happy to have done it, not to mention saving the $$.
</font>
I changed the tranny oil myself two weeks ago and it took me 20 minutes. Of course I used Honda/Acura ATF. The old oil was dirty too and there was quie a bit of metal deposit on the magnet of the drain plug. I was happy to have done it, not to mention saving the $$.
</font>
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The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status or ethnic background, is that deep down inside, we ALL believe that we are above average drivers.
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06-14-2001, 07:03 PM
#8
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Oil only.
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2001 Silver CL-S
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Big_Pimp's_Type_S:
Thats what I am talking about, easy picking. If this guy was able to do himself, how tough would it be a for a garage to do if they have done it to even an accord before cause it's probably the same thing. What needs to be changed, the fluid only, or is there a filter as well?
</font>
Thats what I am talking about, easy picking. If this guy was able to do himself, how tough would it be a for a garage to do if they have done it to even an accord before cause it's probably the same thing. What needs to be changed, the fluid only, or is there a filter as well?
</font>
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2001 Silver CL-S
06-14-2001, 07:10 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Beach-CL:
Oil only.
</font>
Oil only.
</font>
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The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status or ethnic background, is that deep down inside, we ALL believe that we are above average drivers.
06-14-2001, 08:21 PM
#10
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Big_Pimp's_Type_S:
Thats what I am talking about, easy picking. If this guy was able to do himself, how tough would it be a for a garage to do if they have done it to even an accord before cause it's probably the same thing. What needs to be changed, the fluid only, or is there a filter as well?
</font>
Thats what I am talking about, easy picking. If this guy was able to do himself, how tough would it be a for a garage to do if they have done it to even an accord before cause it's probably the same thing. What needs to be changed, the fluid only, or is there a filter as well?
</font>
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06-14-2001, 08:48 PM
#11
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Draining and refilling the A/T fluid once only changes approx. 3 qts. of fluid.
The "flush procedure is as follows...(per "Acura Service News")
1)Raise vehicle on a lift.
2)Drain the ATF and replace with Honda ATFZ1
(pn 08200-9001).
3)Start the engine, press the brake pedal, shift into D4 or D5, then release the brake pedal.
4)Raise the engine speed to 2500rpm.
5)If the A/T does not shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine @ 2500rpm, and shift from D4 to D5 or neutral, then back to D4 or D5.
6)Count the # of shifts to make sure the A/T shifts through all forward gears and make sure the torque converter goes into lock up. With each shift the engine speed drops and then rises again. When the torque converter goes into lock up the engine speed drops slightly and then stays @ that speed.
7) Take your foot off the accelerator pedal, press the brake pedal to stop the wheels from turning. Move the shift lever to reverse then neutral.
8)Repeat steps 4 through 7 four more times.
9)Repeat steps 2 through 7 two more times.
10)Drain the A/T fluid, and install a new drain plug washer.
11) Refill the A/T with Honda ATFZ1 (pn 8200-9001).
In my experience using A/T fluid other than Honda ATF will deteriorate the shift quality.
The "flush procedure is as follows...(per "Acura Service News")
1)Raise vehicle on a lift.
2)Drain the ATF and replace with Honda ATFZ1
(pn 08200-9001).
3)Start the engine, press the brake pedal, shift into D4 or D5, then release the brake pedal.
4)Raise the engine speed to 2500rpm.
5)If the A/T does not shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine @ 2500rpm, and shift from D4 to D5 or neutral, then back to D4 or D5.
6)Count the # of shifts to make sure the A/T shifts through all forward gears and make sure the torque converter goes into lock up. With each shift the engine speed drops and then rises again. When the torque converter goes into lock up the engine speed drops slightly and then stays @ that speed.
7) Take your foot off the accelerator pedal, press the brake pedal to stop the wheels from turning. Move the shift lever to reverse then neutral.
8)Repeat steps 4 through 7 four more times.
9)Repeat steps 2 through 7 two more times.
10)Drain the A/T fluid, and install a new drain plug washer.
11) Refill the A/T with Honda ATFZ1 (pn 8200-9001).
In my experience using A/T fluid other than Honda ATF will deteriorate the shift quality.
06-14-2001, 09:54 PM
#12
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ACuraR:
Draining and refilling the A/T fluid once only changes approx. 3 qts. of fluid.
The "flush procedure is as follows...(per "Acura Service News")
1)Raise vehicle on a lift.
2)Drain the ATF and replace with Honda ATFZ1
(pn 08200-9001).
3)Start the engine, press the brake pedal, shift into D4 or D5, then release the brake pedal.
4)Raise the engine speed to 2500rpm.
5)If the A/T does not shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine @ 2500rpm, and shift from D4 to D5 or neutral, then back to D4 or D5.
6)Count the # of shifts to make sure the A/T shifts through all forward gears and make sure the torque converter goes into lock up. With each shift the engine speed drops and then rises again. When the torque converter goes into lock up the engine speed drops slightly and then stays @ that speed.
7) Take your foot off the accelerator pedal, press the brake pedal to stop the wheels from turning. Move the shift lever to reverse then neutral.
8)Repeat steps 4 through 7 four more times.
9)Repeat steps 2 through 7 two more times.
10)Drain the A/T fluid, and install a new drain plug washer.
11) Refill the A/T with Honda ATFZ1 (pn 8200-9001).
In my experience using A/T fluid other than Honda ATF will deteriorate the shift quality.</font>
Draining and refilling the A/T fluid once only changes approx. 3 qts. of fluid.
The "flush procedure is as follows...(per "Acura Service News")
1)Raise vehicle on a lift.
2)Drain the ATF and replace with Honda ATFZ1
(pn 08200-9001).
3)Start the engine, press the brake pedal, shift into D4 or D5, then release the brake pedal.
4)Raise the engine speed to 2500rpm.
5)If the A/T does not shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine @ 2500rpm, and shift from D4 to D5 or neutral, then back to D4 or D5.
6)Count the # of shifts to make sure the A/T shifts through all forward gears and make sure the torque converter goes into lock up. With each shift the engine speed drops and then rises again. When the torque converter goes into lock up the engine speed drops slightly and then stays @ that speed.
7) Take your foot off the accelerator pedal, press the brake pedal to stop the wheels from turning. Move the shift lever to reverse then neutral.
8)Repeat steps 4 through 7 four more times.
9)Repeat steps 2 through 7 two more times.
10)Drain the A/T fluid, and install a new drain plug washer.
11) Refill the A/T with Honda ATFZ1 (pn 8200-9001).
In my experience using A/T fluid other than Honda ATF will deteriorate the shift quality.</font>
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06-14-2001, 10:49 PM
#13
Suzuka Master
So, I guess the Acura's don't have a pressure bleed cleanout. I had my Maxima's flushed out and pressure cleaned by one of the dealers, and it was the first time that the fluid was dead clean after the work. The previous changes would leave a light color to the fluid that never matched the virgin ATF fluid color.
So, do they "flush" using this iterative procedure, or do some just change out the minimal amount?
Any comments?
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Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI
So, do they "flush" using this iterative procedure, or do some just change out the minimal amount?
Any comments?
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06-15-2001, 03:47 AM
#14
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That is correct. By doing what I did you replace about 3 qts. from the bottom of the tranny. (which is less than half of the total oil the tranny makes)
The oil in the valve body and other components remains there until a complete overhaul or flushing procedure is done.
At about 15k miles, I did not see a need for a flush.
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2001 Silver CL-S
The oil in the valve body and other components remains there until a complete overhaul or flushing procedure is done.
At about 15k miles, I did not see a need for a flush.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Technique:
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but when he changed his tranny fluid he only changed about 1/2 the fluid. In order to change all the oil, you need a pump system. This isn't just like changing motor oil where u pull a plug and 95% of it drains out. With our tranny only about 50% will drain out. Correct?
</font>
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but when he changed his tranny fluid he only changed about 1/2 the fluid. In order to change all the oil, you need a pump system. This isn't just like changing motor oil where u pull a plug and 95% of it drains out. With our tranny only about 50% will drain out. Correct?
</font>
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2001 Silver CL-S
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