Transmission cooler for my 01 cl-s
#1
Transmission cooler for my 01 cl-s
I am in the midst of purchasing a transmission cooler. I have had my eye on the comptech one for some time and now that I am about to get a trailer hitch an tow a few things every now and then I feel it's defs time to make the trans cooler purchase.
Question is... which one should I get? Price isn't really an issue since it's like 200 max. but I want the best one for my car price aside.
Anyone with experience in this department?
oh and where is that comptech trans cooler DIY I saw it a year ago and now that i've searched I cannot come across it again.
Thanks everyone
Question is... which one should I get? Price isn't really an issue since it's like 200 max. but I want the best one for my car price aside.
Anyone with experience in this department?
oh and where is that comptech trans cooler DIY I saw it a year ago and now that i've searched I cannot come across it again.
Thanks everyone
#2
I Wanna Beer
Save yourself a ton of money and just get a B&M transmission cooler. Chances are the Comptech one is just a B&M cooler with their name slapped on it and the price raised 4x. You should be able to find one for about $40-$50.
You may also want to look into adding an inline-magnetic transmission filter. You will have to go with the 1/2" one because the ID is 3/8" and you don't want to restrict the flow. You need to make an adaptor for each side that has 1/2" hose over the ends with 1/2" ID to 3/8" ID fittings to make it fit your transmission line. I'll see if I still have mine around somewhere (made one for my old car but never installed it, tried to sell it on here but no one was interested).
http://www.magnefine.com/html/filtration.html
Installing the cooler is simple. Get a couple copper piping connectors that are an inch or so long or cut 4 yourself from a piece of copper piping. These will be used to go between the cooler you're installing and the factory cooler. Then simply mount the cooler in front of the factory cooler with the pipe pieces between using the included zip-tie like things. Takes less then 20 minutes including hooking up the transmission lines and adding more transmission fluid. Run the car for a minute in neutral to get the fluid flowing, check the level and add more as needed once you've filled the new cooler.
You may also want to look into adding an inline-magnetic transmission filter. You will have to go with the 1/2" one because the ID is 3/8" and you don't want to restrict the flow. You need to make an adaptor for each side that has 1/2" hose over the ends with 1/2" ID to 3/8" ID fittings to make it fit your transmission line. I'll see if I still have mine around somewhere (made one for my old car but never installed it, tried to sell it on here but no one was interested).
http://www.magnefine.com/html/filtration.html
Installing the cooler is simple. Get a couple copper piping connectors that are an inch or so long or cut 4 yourself from a piece of copper piping. These will be used to go between the cooler you're installing and the factory cooler. Then simply mount the cooler in front of the factory cooler with the pipe pieces between using the included zip-tie like things. Takes less then 20 minutes including hooking up the transmission lines and adding more transmission fluid. Run the car for a minute in neutral to get the fluid flowing, check the level and add more as needed once you've filled the new cooler.
Last edited by TheWeez; 07-26-2010 at 03:28 PM.
#4
I Wanna Beer
#6
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Save yourself a ton of money and just get a B&M transmission cooler. Chances are the Comptech one is just a B&M cooler with their name slapped on it and the price raised 4x. You should be able to find one for about $40-$50.
You may also want to look into adding an inline-magnetic transmission filter. You will have to go with the 1/2" one because the ID is 3/8" and you don't want to restrict the flow. You need to make an adaptor for each side that has 1/2" hose over the ends with 1/2" ID to 3/8" ID fittings to make it fit your transmission line. I'll see if I still have mine around somewhere (made one for my old car but never installed it, tried to sell it on here but no one was interested).
http://www.magnefine.com/html/filtration.html
Installing the cooler is simple. Get a couple copper piping connectors that are an inch or so long or cut 4 yourself from a piece of copper piping. These will be used to go between the cooler you're installing and the factory cooler. Then simply mount the cooler in front of the factory cooler with the pipe pieces between using the included zip-tie like things. Takes less then 20 minutes including hooking up the transmission lines and adding more transmission fluid. Run the car for a minute in neutral to get the fluid flowing, check the level and add more as needed once you've filled the new cooler.
You may also want to look into adding an inline-magnetic transmission filter. You will have to go with the 1/2" one because the ID is 3/8" and you don't want to restrict the flow. You need to make an adaptor for each side that has 1/2" hose over the ends with 1/2" ID to 3/8" ID fittings to make it fit your transmission line. I'll see if I still have mine around somewhere (made one for my old car but never installed it, tried to sell it on here but no one was interested).
http://www.magnefine.com/html/filtration.html
Installing the cooler is simple. Get a couple copper piping connectors that are an inch or so long or cut 4 yourself from a piece of copper piping. These will be used to go between the cooler you're installing and the factory cooler. Then simply mount the cooler in front of the factory cooler with the pipe pieces between using the included zip-tie like things. Takes less then 20 minutes including hooking up the transmission lines and adding more transmission fluid. Run the car for a minute in neutral to get the fluid flowing, check the level and add more as needed once you've filled the new cooler.
at least it wud prob hlp the 5 speed tranny.
do u hv a picture or diagram of the setup above ?.
#7
I Wanna Beer
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#9
I Wanna Beer
Here is what the filter looks like. Found it in storage.
As I said, you use the 1/2" model because the inner diameter of the in and out side is 3/8" which is what the transmission uses. If you use the 3/8" model, the inner diameter is smaller and slows the flow of fluid.
Finding 1/2" hose can be a bitch. Found hydraulic hose at a trucking supply place. It was a bitch to cut with a metal weave inside that even a hacksaw had issues with. Place it inline with the return line. Magnetic element inside filters out metal particles and it has a bypass in case it should clog to prevent starving the transmission.
![](http://www.ihasaids.com/upload/data/1280259049.jpg)
Wanna buy it?
As I said, you use the 1/2" model because the inner diameter of the in and out side is 3/8" which is what the transmission uses. If you use the 3/8" model, the inner diameter is smaller and slows the flow of fluid.
Finding 1/2" hose can be a bitch. Found hydraulic hose at a trucking supply place. It was a bitch to cut with a metal weave inside that even a hacksaw had issues with. Place it inline with the return line. Magnetic element inside filters out metal particles and it has a bypass in case it should clog to prevent starving the transmission.
![](http://www.ihasaids.com/upload/data/1280259049.jpg)
Wanna buy it?
#10
I Wanna Beer
I don't have any pictures of the cooler installed.
![](http://www.ihasaids.com/upload/data/1280222255.jpg)
You can see the zip tie parts included with the B&M kits. They're fine for attaching the cooler directly to your existing cooler or radiator flush with them but for added air flow and to prevent one from heating the other and vise-versa, I like to separate them a bit.
![](http://www.ihasaids.com/upload/data/1280238746.jpg)
Get 4 copper couplers like in the above picture for a couple cents at a hardware store or Home Depot. Then place them between the cooler and radiator and put the zip ties through them sandwiching them in between. I haven't installed one on a CL so I don't know where the transmission lines are piped. I'm not even sure it has a dedicated cooler from the factory rather then just running it through the car's radiator like many cars do.
![](http://www.ihasaids.com/upload/data/1280281621.jpg)
Judging by the factory service manual, it appears that the return line it attached to hose B in the diagram so you'd wanna connect the cooler and filter to that line. You should verify that it's the correct line though before installing.
![](http://www.ihasaids.com/upload/data/1280222255.jpg)
You can see the zip tie parts included with the B&M kits. They're fine for attaching the cooler directly to your existing cooler or radiator flush with them but for added air flow and to prevent one from heating the other and vise-versa, I like to separate them a bit.
![](http://www.ihasaids.com/upload/data/1280238746.jpg)
Get 4 copper couplers like in the above picture for a couple cents at a hardware store or Home Depot. Then place them between the cooler and radiator and put the zip ties through them sandwiching them in between. I haven't installed one on a CL so I don't know where the transmission lines are piped. I'm not even sure it has a dedicated cooler from the factory rather then just running it through the car's radiator like many cars do.
![](http://www.ihasaids.com/upload/data/1280281621.jpg)
Judging by the factory service manual, it appears that the return line it attached to hose B in the diagram so you'd wanna connect the cooler and filter to that line. You should verify that it's the correct line though before installing.
#11
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
u dont play, that was a QUICKKKKKKKK pic response.
Are the filters Xpensive ?
I DONT hv a tranny cooler right now nor do i think i can install it myself without sm serious instructions DIYs.
but I will note this.
I am sure when i do this , i will go with follow ur designs above seems very logical and beneficial
Are the filters Xpensive ?
I DONT hv a tranny cooler right now nor do i think i can install it myself without sm serious instructions DIYs.
but I will note this.
I am sure when i do this , i will go with follow ur designs above seems very logical and beneficial
#13
Blown is Best
The cooler used in the Comptech kit was a B&M plate cooler. I think it was the Universal Supercooler model # 70268.
http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Aut...U-11x7-1-2x3-4
When I did mine, I fabricated some brackets using the same mounting points as the Comptech kit. I also went with the larger B&M plate cooler # 70266 which is thicker but has the same width and similar height.
http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Uni...BTU-11x8x1-1-2
Here's the Comptech install guide to give you some ideas on installation:
http://photos.imageevent.com/allout/...nny_Cooler.pdf
http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Aut...U-11x7-1-2x3-4
When I did mine, I fabricated some brackets using the same mounting points as the Comptech kit. I also went with the larger B&M plate cooler # 70266 which is thicker but has the same width and similar height.
http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Uni...BTU-11x8x1-1-2
Here's the Comptech install guide to give you some ideas on installation:
http://photos.imageevent.com/allout/...nny_Cooler.pdf
#14
I Wanna Beer
I wish I could take other company's products, slap my name on the box and sell it for 4x more.
Should note that you don't wanna go too big with the cooler or else you may have issues getting up to a decent temp in cold weather. A bit bigger is fine. Many people disconnect them in the winter.
Should note that you don't wanna go too big with the cooler or else you may have issues getting up to a decent temp in cold weather. A bit bigger is fine. Many people disconnect them in the winter.
#15
Blown is Best
I wish I could take other company's products, slap my name on the box and sell it for 4x more.
Should note that you don't wanna go too big with the cooler or else you may have issues getting up to a decent temp in cold weather. A bit bigger is fine. Many people disconnect them in the winter.
Should note that you don't wanna go too big with the cooler or else you may have issues getting up to a decent temp in cold weather. A bit bigger is fine. Many people disconnect them in the winter.
"B&M SuperCoolers are 100% aluminum construction and use stamped plates sandwiched together to create one of the most efficient oil cooling devices available
Not only does this unique design provide for maximized cooling through more efficient heat dissipation but it also provides a much sturdier cooler which is practically impervious to flying rocks or other debris. The Super-Coolers intended for automatic transmission fluid also offer an additional feature known as “Low Pressure Drop”. The coolers assembled with hose barb ends include a unique bypass feature allowing a controlled amount of ATF to bypass the stacked plate core when the fluid is cold. This is beneficial in cold climate areas to guard against lube system failure. Controlled by viscosity, fluid is returned directly to the lube circuit through bypass openings in the stacked plate core. As the temperature increases, more ATF is directed through the core. This highly efficient design combines improved protection against lube system failure with the required levels of optimal heat transfer. "
The coldest we see in my area is around 30 in the winter and I've had no problems.
#16
I Wanna Beer
Huh, I wasn't aware that they had a bypass in them. Pretty cool. I use to unhook mine in the winter until I went supercharged and stopped driving the car in the winter. +400FWHP doesn't work in MN winters.
#17
Will it still work when it is -30F or more? Yes it can get that cold where i live lol
#20
Blown is Best
It should. The cooler goes in series after the OEM cooler. In theory, the OEM cooler normalizes the temp of the fluid when extremely hot or extremely cold. The design of the B&M should regulate flow as needed.
#21
Blown is Best
#22
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
His engine is blown
![Sad](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/sad.gif)
#23
About amonth ago I got a B&M cooler installed with my new tranny. In temps around 90 the inlet temp was around 145F and the outlet was around 98F. I'd say it does a pretty good job. I have noticed a slight whistling noise now at highway speeds that I think my be coming from the brackets that were used to mount it. Maybe this weeked I'll putz around to see if I can identify the exact location and fix it.
#24
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#31
#33
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Being a dumb@$$...hit a jump and bottomed out, blew the motor. Idiota.......!
But I'm picking the car back up this weekend from the shop!
It's been
since last November!!! ![omg](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/omg.gif)
Now I'll be able to install my B&M tranny cooler.
But I'm picking the car back up this weekend from the shop!
It's been
![RIP](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smitty.gif)
![omg](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/omg.gif)
Now I'll be able to install my B&M tranny cooler.
![Shrug](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif)
#40
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Yep. Put in the 3.5 after the last mishap. Hes not running CL-S heads though.