torque converter and tranny cooler on the way
#1
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torque converter and tranny cooler on the way
i get my tranny cooler omorrow and friday i am sending my converter to level 10
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2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#2
Suzuka Master
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mchtypeS:
i get my tranny cooler omorrow and friday i am sending my converter to level 10
</font>
i get my tranny cooler omorrow and friday i am sending my converter to level 10
</font>
Now, this is something I want to hear about when you get it back!
Have you done a before dyno for enquiring minds?
------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI
- Mud Guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1S Proxies on Stock 17" CLS wheels
- Gtech 1/8th tank 40F ~=6.1
- Zaino magic
- 14.8lb 17x8" SSR Competition rims on the way
- Sways, headers, CAI comming soon
#3
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im gonna do it on monday before i put in the converter
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2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#4
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supposedly the converter shaves off 1 second on the quarter mile time
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#5
Suzuka Master
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mchtypeS:
supposedly the converter shaves off 1 second on the quarter mile time
</font>
supposedly the converter shaves off 1 second on the quarter mile time
</font>
I asked them about power gain and they said a dyno would show about a 40 hp front wheel gain. Rather impressive.
So, when are ya going to the track and dyno.
We can ask can't we
BTW -- $595 total from them, not bad for the HP gain. Who's swapping the converter in-and-out for you. How much are they charging.
Hmmm... 13.5 seconds
------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI
- Mud Guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1S Proxies on Stock 17" CLS wheels
- Gtech 1/8th tank 40F ~=6.1
- Zaino magic
- 14.8lb 17x8" SSR Competition rims on the way
- Sways, headers, CAI comming soon
[This message has been edited by EricL (edited 03-13-2001).]
#7
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south florida peformance is putting in the converter for me for 300.00 and the tranny cooler as well
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2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
Trending Topics
#8
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i wanna dyno it next week and im going to the track april 9 at moroso motorsports park in west palm bch
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2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#10
Coming to a city near you
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by EricL:
I asked them about power gain and they said a dyno would show about a 40 hp rear wheel gain. Rather impressive.
</font>
I asked them about power gain and they said a dyno would show about a 40 hp rear wheel gain. Rather impressive.
</font>
#11
Suzuka Master
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Achance:
What car are you talking about??</font>
What car are you talking about??</font>
Hence, you can see my interest in seeing a dyno (before and after) of the mod. If this is true, then this is one heck of a mod.
I think I know where you are going, and I too find it hard to believe that the HP gain can be that high when you compare the loss of a typical automatic vs. the loss of a manual (~25% vs ~15%). So a 10% difference would be about 30 hp (if the car has headers, CAI, V-AFC, etc, etc).
(Just some guesses, what do you think??)
I drove a Bimmer for so long, that I just can't seem to kick the habit of using rear wheels in lieu of front wheels. I'll have to give myself some electro-shock to erase the "rear" drive stuff. (Also, too many dyno tests with it.)
------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI
- Mud Guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1S Proxies on Stock 17" CLS wheels
- Gtech 1/8th tank 40F ~=6.1
- Zaino magic
- 14.8lb 17x8" SSR Competition rims on the way
- Sways, headers, CAI comming soon
[This message has been edited by EricL (edited 03-13-2001).]
#14
Nosferatu
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The torque convertor will NOT increase your HP or Torque at the crank, it WILL however increase it at the wheels since it changes the whole curve. Is the stall speed being changed as well? Also, be careful. With more power you'll put more strain on the differential. Since we don't have a LSD (limited slip differential, too much spinning and excessive power will destroy it quickly) This is the major problem with GTP transmissions. I suggest doing a regular tranny fluid change every 15-20K miles for safety and try not to do too many burnouts.
------------------
Andrew S.
2000 Dark Forest Green GTP/GTX
14.413@95.03
My Mod Page
2001 San Marino Red Acura 3.2 CL Type S
* No Mods Yet, though planned *
------------------
Andrew S.
2000 Dark Forest Green GTP/GTX
14.413@95.03
My Mod Page
2001 San Marino Red Acura 3.2 CL Type S
* No Mods Yet, though planned *
#15
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CLpower:
which tranny cooler did you get?</font>
which tranny cooler did you get?</font>
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2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#16
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by spiroh:
mch,
are you going to put your stock tires and wheels on? I know that 18s will slow you down a bit.</font>
mch,
are you going to put your stock tires and wheels on? I know that 18s will slow you down a bit.</font>
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2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#17
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Vampyre:
The torque convertor will NOT increase your HP or Torque at the crank, it WILL however increase it at the wheels since it changes the whole curve. Is the stall speed being changed as well? Also, be careful. With more power you'll put more strain on the differential. Since we don't have a LSD (limited slip differential, too much spinning and excessive power will destroy it quickly)
</font>
The torque convertor will NOT increase your HP or Torque at the crank, it WILL however increase it at the wheels since it changes the whole curve. Is the stall speed being changed as well? Also, be careful. With more power you'll put more strain on the differential. Since we don't have a LSD (limited slip differential, too much spinning and excessive power will destroy it quickly)
</font>
Also I thought the point of Tq Conv's were to raise the stall speed, otherwise its really not doing you any more good... other than perhaps just being more robust?
And just to prep you, you won't gain a second off your quarter. You probably won't even gain a half second. But it will feel a lot faster off the line. I'd say around .3-.4 seconds gain, depending on how the launch is.
I've ridden in before and after in a car that badly needed a torque converter. It helps the most on cars that have low to modest power, and get basically no wheelspin off the line. I can see it helping Accord 6's and TL's perhaps, but from what I hear CL Type S's get enough wheelspin as it is off the line to get into high rpm's quickly. But we'll have to see.
The car I rode in had 300 hp 310 lb. ft of torque but it couldn't spin its tires off the line no matter if you torque braked or just buried the pedal... with the torque converter it rocked off the line. He didn't gain a half second, but it was just under it. I've even done a few gtech runs with it.
------------------
Kenny
Slow TL
#18
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Vampyre:
The torque convertor will NOT increase your HP or Torque at the crank, it WILL however increase it at the wheels since it changes the whole curve. Is the stall speed being changed as well? Also, be careful. With more power you'll put more strain on the differential. Since we don't have a LSD (limited slip differential, too much spinning and excessive power will destroy it quickly) This is the major problem with GTP transmissions. I suggest doing a regular tranny fluid change every 15-20K miles for safety and try not to do too many burnouts.
</font>
The torque convertor will NOT increase your HP or Torque at the crank, it WILL however increase it at the wheels since it changes the whole curve. Is the stall speed being changed as well? Also, be careful. With more power you'll put more strain on the differential. Since we don't have a LSD (limited slip differential, too much spinning and excessive power will destroy it quickly) This is the major problem with GTP transmissions. I suggest doing a regular tranny fluid change every 15-20K miles for safety and try not to do too many burnouts.
</font>
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#19
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and i change my tranny fluid every 15000 miles
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2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#20
teh Senior Instigator
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mch, do you know the part #? i want to make sure i've already bought the right one and it's not to big. Also are you gonna keep your existing cooler? or replace it?
#21
Senior Moderator
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mchtypeS:
and i change my tranny fluid every 15000 miles
</font>
and i change my tranny fluid every 15000 miles
</font>
------------------
'01 3.2 CL typeS
satin silver metalic
Llumar platinum plus
tint 20% all around
-----------------
'98 ACCORD V-6 sedan
16" coupe wheels
215/55/16 nitto's
20% smoke titanium
black chrome kit
#22
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by typeR:
-------------------------------------
you should do the valve body while youre at it and one more BIG thing look at the comptech dyno if you could raise the shift points and raise red line and fuel cut 1K you would spend much more time in the high horse high torque power range
---------------------------------------
I asked Levelten about the valves, clutches, and other stuff. They said that the ECU would need to be modified to change the operating points. I wanted to specifically know if they could alter the clutch engagement point. (Remember, he said, I didn't.)
Now, if they could just change the 4th and 5th gears ratios for our Chuck Yeagers...
(BTW -- I'm not an auto tranny expert.)
------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI
[This message has been edited by EricL (edited 03-13-2001).]
-------------------------------------
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mchtypeS:
and i change my tranny fluid every 15000 miles
</font>
and i change my tranny fluid every 15000 miles
</font>
---------------------------------------
I asked Levelten about the valves, clutches, and other stuff. They said that the ECU would need to be modified to change the operating points. I wanted to specifically know if they could alter the clutch engagement point. (Remember, he said, I didn't.)
Now, if they could just change the 4th and 5th gears ratios for our Chuck Yeagers...
(BTW -- I'm not an auto tranny expert.)
------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI
- Mud Guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1S Proxies on Stock 17" CLS wheels
- Gtech 1/8th tank 40F ~=6.1
- Zaino magic
- 14.8lb 17x8" SSR Competition rims on the way
- Sways, headers, CAI comming soon
[This message has been edited by EricL (edited 03-13-2001).]
#23
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CLpower:
mch, do you know the part #? i want to make sure i've already bought the right one and it's not to big. Also are you gonna keep your existing cooler? or replace it?</font>
mch, do you know the part #? i want to make sure i've already bought the right one and it's not to big. Also are you gonna keep your existing cooler? or replace it?</font>
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#24
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Any updates????
------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation
------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation
- 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
- Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
- Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
- A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
- Mugen Grill
- Inspire Tail Lights
- Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
- Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm w/SmartWindows II
- Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
- BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
- Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
- 20% tint
#25
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i got it baCK ALREADY I AM JUST WAITING TILL APRIL 16 to put it in cuz im doing a lot of engine work that day so i am gonna put in everything at the same time
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)3.5 litre upgrade on april 16!(dommed topped pistons, mdx crankshaft, rods , bearings, heads ported and polished, vtec timing
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)3.5 litre upgrade on april 16!(dommed topped pistons, mdx crankshaft, rods , bearings, heads ported and polished, vtec timing
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#26
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Thanks for the update
Neil
------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation
Neil
------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation
- 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
- Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
- Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
- A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
- Mugen Grill
- Inspire Tail Lights
- Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
- Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm w/SmartWindows II
- Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
- BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
- Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
- 20% tint
#27
Racer
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jayru:
What's the torque converter do? How does it function? </font>
What's the torque converter do? How does it function? </font>
WHAT IS A TORQUE converter and how does it function?
now can I get a response from you
[This message has been edited by Astroboy (edited 04-03-2001).]
#28
Community Architect
robb m.
robb m.
MCH, what Fuel pressure regulator did you get?
is it 35% or?
------------------
Astroboy out...
2001 Acura CL Type S: Comptech: Headers, filter, sways, springs, koni shocks, goodridge braided brake lines, full kicker system
1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks
is it 35% or?
------------------
Astroboy out...
2001 Acura CL Type S: Comptech: Headers, filter, sways, springs, koni shocks, goodridge braided brake lines, full kicker system
1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks
#29
It is time for a nap or at least a time out.
I'm serious, go for a walk, or relax. All of us get wound up, but f*cking this/that, cause of no immediate response.
It's a start, but in the interest of good will, here is a link. Might I suggest a look at one of the search engines with the following key words:
Torque Converter Operation
@
www.google.com
www.msn.com
www.nbci.com
(take your pick)
Here is an OK link (I just can't find a better one at this microsecond):
http://www.islandnet.com/~victrans/Components.html
------------------
Dr's car's is stealthy -- able to sneak up on unsuspecting victims
[This message has been edited by Astroboy (edited 04-04-2001).]
#30
Senior Moderator
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jayru:
Ok, I am gonna ask this question another time.
WHAT IS A TORQUE converter and how does it function?
now can I get a response from you
[This message has been edited by Astroboy (edited 04-03-2001).]</font>
Ok, I am gonna ask this question another time.
WHAT IS A TORQUE converter and how does it function?
now can I get a response from you
[This message has been edited by Astroboy (edited 04-03-2001).]</font>
------------------
'01 3.2 CL typeS
satin silver metalic
Llumar platinum plus
tint 20% all around
-----------------
'98 ACCORD V-6 sedan
16" coupe wheels
215/55/16 nitto's
20% smoke titanium
black chrome kit
#31
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by typeR:
...good job Robb
Originally posted by Jayru:
Ok, I am gonna ask this question another time.
WHAT IS A TORQUE converter and how does it function?
now can I get a response from you
[This message has been edited by Astroboy (edited 04-03-2001).]</font>
Ok, I am gonna ask this question another time.
WHAT IS A TORQUE converter and how does it function?
now can I get a response from you
[This message has been edited by Astroboy (edited 04-03-2001).]</font>
I ask a simple question, no one wants to take the time to reply to me. But when someone posts STUPID sh*t (Like CL-power) Everyone will take time to reply and such.
I consider myself a loyal member and acura owner, and all I want is a TAD bit of attention.
This ain't the 1'st, 2'nd or 5'th time I have been simply ignored.
And, No. I don't need a walk or time-out. I posted that, in that way, to make heads turn , for once.
#32
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Don't blow a gasket Jayru, here's the explanation on what the Level10 torque converter is and what it does.
=============================================
PTS™ - Torque Converters
A Torque Converter is fluid-filled case that contains a set of turbines - there is an input turbine that is driven by the engine, an output turbine that connected to the transmission's input shaft, and a stator turbine between them that directs and controls the flow of the fluid.
At a certain input RPM, the torque converter will reach its maximum fluid flow. Below this input RPM, there is poor hydraulic "coupling" between the input turbine and the output turbine - there is a lot of "slippage". Above this input RPM there is a hydraulic "lockup" - there is almost no slippage between the input turbine and the output turbine. This certain input RPM is called the "stall speed" of the converter. This property of a torque converter allows an engine to rev-up to a speed where it begins to make significant power (commonly referred to as "torque multiplication") before being put under a heavy load. The stall speed of a torque converter needs to be carefully matched to the torque curve of the engine it will be used with. A high-performance or race engine, which makes power only at high RPM, needs a torque converter that has a very high stall speed.
You cannot check the stall speed of a torque converter by pulling the transmission into gear, holding a vehicle with the brakes and adding power -- the drive-wheels will begin to spin long before you reach full-power. The proper way to check the stall speed is to make a standing-start, abrupt, foot-to-the-floor acceleration run and note the RPM shown on the tach at the instant the vehicle begins to move. This test actually measures "flash stall", but this is usually very close to the true stall speed of the converter. Also, this test is only valid if the tires do not begin to spin and if the engine can develop sufficient torque to actually reach the rated stall speed. If the tires spin, the apparent stall speed will be high. If the engine does not develop sufficient torque for the converter, the apparent stall speed will be low.
Some torque converters have an internal, hydraulically operated "lockup clutch" in them. At some preset point, the transmission will cause this converter lockup clutch to engage in order to mechanically lock the input turbine and the output turbine together. This improves the vehicles efficiency a bit because the slight slippage between the input turbine and the output turbine is eliminated. As a side benefit, some "engine braking" is also available when you take your foot off the accelerator.
The internal parts of the turbines are manufactured from formed sheet metal vanes and machined rings. In most "stock" quality torque converters, the assembly of these parts is primarily accomplished by interlocking mechanical means. In high quality, heavy-duty and high performance torque converters, the turbine assemblies are completely welded or furnace brazed together to provide for a stronger and more robust unit.
As with the rest of the transmission, excessive heat and contamination is what will kill a torque converter. Since the fluid in the torque converter is ATF supplied by the transmission, wear particles and/or bits and pieces of a blown-up transmission will end up in the converter, thereby destroying it. Changing the ATF at regular intervals and installing an external transmission cooler will lead to maximum torque converter life. If an in-radiator transmission cooler fails, ATF contamination with engine coolant will destroy a lockup torque converter.
http://www.levelten.com/converters.htm
Here's a pic of a torque converter
Have a good day Jayru
------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation
=============================================
PTS™ - Torque Converters
A Torque Converter is fluid-filled case that contains a set of turbines - there is an input turbine that is driven by the engine, an output turbine that connected to the transmission's input shaft, and a stator turbine between them that directs and controls the flow of the fluid.
At a certain input RPM, the torque converter will reach its maximum fluid flow. Below this input RPM, there is poor hydraulic "coupling" between the input turbine and the output turbine - there is a lot of "slippage". Above this input RPM there is a hydraulic "lockup" - there is almost no slippage between the input turbine and the output turbine. This certain input RPM is called the "stall speed" of the converter. This property of a torque converter allows an engine to rev-up to a speed where it begins to make significant power (commonly referred to as "torque multiplication") before being put under a heavy load. The stall speed of a torque converter needs to be carefully matched to the torque curve of the engine it will be used with. A high-performance or race engine, which makes power only at high RPM, needs a torque converter that has a very high stall speed.
You cannot check the stall speed of a torque converter by pulling the transmission into gear, holding a vehicle with the brakes and adding power -- the drive-wheels will begin to spin long before you reach full-power. The proper way to check the stall speed is to make a standing-start, abrupt, foot-to-the-floor acceleration run and note the RPM shown on the tach at the instant the vehicle begins to move. This test actually measures "flash stall", but this is usually very close to the true stall speed of the converter. Also, this test is only valid if the tires do not begin to spin and if the engine can develop sufficient torque to actually reach the rated stall speed. If the tires spin, the apparent stall speed will be high. If the engine does not develop sufficient torque for the converter, the apparent stall speed will be low.
Some torque converters have an internal, hydraulically operated "lockup clutch" in them. At some preset point, the transmission will cause this converter lockup clutch to engage in order to mechanically lock the input turbine and the output turbine together. This improves the vehicles efficiency a bit because the slight slippage between the input turbine and the output turbine is eliminated. As a side benefit, some "engine braking" is also available when you take your foot off the accelerator.
The internal parts of the turbines are manufactured from formed sheet metal vanes and machined rings. In most "stock" quality torque converters, the assembly of these parts is primarily accomplished by interlocking mechanical means. In high quality, heavy-duty and high performance torque converters, the turbine assemblies are completely welded or furnace brazed together to provide for a stronger and more robust unit.
As with the rest of the transmission, excessive heat and contamination is what will kill a torque converter. Since the fluid in the torque converter is ATF supplied by the transmission, wear particles and/or bits and pieces of a blown-up transmission will end up in the converter, thereby destroying it. Changing the ATF at regular intervals and installing an external transmission cooler will lead to maximum torque converter life. If an in-radiator transmission cooler fails, ATF contamination with engine coolant will destroy a lockup torque converter.
http://www.levelten.com/converters.htm
Here's a pic of a torque converter
Have a good day Jayru
------------------
1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation
- 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
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#33
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Thanks NSXNEXT.
It's sad that one has to make heads turn to get an answer.
Actually all you guys are suckers. It was planned from the start. I really did not mean any of that sh*t I said. Hahahaha
It's sad that one has to make heads turn to get an answer.
Actually all you guys are suckers. It was planned from the start. I really did not mean any of that sh*t I said. Hahahaha
#34
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
You know, I have been on this site since it has begun, and alot of the crap on here is purely a waist of HDD space, BUT.. BUt.. There are some good topics. what pisses me off is this:
I ask a simple question, no one wants to take the time to reply to me. But when someone posts STUPID sh*t (Like CL-power) Everyone will take time to reply and such.
I consider myself a loyal member and acura owner, and all I want is a TAD bit of attention.
This ain't the 1'st, 2'nd or 5'th time I have been simply ignored.
And, No. I don't need a walk or time-out. I posted that, in that way, to make heads turn , for once.
</font>
You know, I have been on this site since it has begun, and alot of the crap on here is purely a waist of HDD space, BUT.. BUt.. There are some good topics. what pisses me off is this:
I ask a simple question, no one wants to take the time to reply to me. But when someone posts STUPID sh*t (Like CL-power) Everyone will take time to reply and such.
I consider myself a loyal member and acura owner, and all I want is a TAD bit of attention.
This ain't the 1'st, 2'nd or 5'th time I have been simply ignored.
And, No. I don't need a walk or time-out. I posted that, in that way, to make heads turn , for once.
</font>
Did the information help. Or is there some specifics that you are looking for in the way of torque converter operation.
I can only speak for myself, but NOT having encyclopedic knowledge, I need to consult materials -- depending on topic, depth, and situation -- to return a half decent answer.
OR, I can give you links to even more articles that can do a pretty good job of explaining their operation. For example:
http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m11.../article.jhtml
OR
This link has diagrams showing the various phases of operation:
1. Being an automatic transmission, you don't have a clutch, so the engine need to spin while "connected" to a transmission.
http://www.victrans.com/tq%27s.html
http://www.victrans.com/componets.html
http://www.victrans.com/multiplication.html
As a note, the level 10 converter will not change the action of the "clutches". The main change is to the "stall" speed. Since our cars make for more power at 3000 rpm and up, this helps get the car going. The clutches are controlled by the ECU (car's computer).
------------------
Dr's car's is stealthy -- able to sneak up on unsuspecting victims
[This message has been edited by DrJeckle and Hyde (edited 04-03-2001).]
#35
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Well, My problem is simple. My acura needs a new transmission. And I figured I'd get the BAD BOY tranny if I needed to get a new one. But this level 10 deal seems way to complicated for an average joe like me to use/operate on a everyday basis. I did not know that so much went into one of these.
Thanks anyways
Thanks anyways
#36
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Astroboy:
MCH, what Fuel pressure regulator did you get?
is it 35% or?
</font>
MCH, what Fuel pressure regulator did you get?
is it 35% or?
</font>
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)3.5 litre upgrade on april 16!(dommed topped pistons, mdx crankshaft, rods , bearings, heads ported and polished, vtec timing
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
#37
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robb m.
robb m.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mchtypeS:
nos fuel pr its useless in our cars im taking it off on april 16
</font>
nos fuel pr its useless in our cars im taking it off on april 16
</font>
Why is it useless?
with the V-AFC, headers and CAI don't you think it could be very useful?
------------------
Astroboy out...
2001 Acura CL Type S: Comptech: Headers, filter, sways, springs, koni shocks, goodridge braided brake lines, full kicker system
1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks
#38
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Astroboy:
Why is it useless?
with the V-AFC, headers and CAI don't you think it could be very useful?
</font>
Why is it useless?
with the V-AFC, headers and CAI don't you think it could be very useful?
</font>
i saw an add today; AEM makes fuel pressure regulators. I don't know if this is true or not though.
#39
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jayru:
I ask a simple question, no one wants to take the time to reply to me. But when someone posts STUPID sh*t (Like CL-power) Everyone will take time to reply and such.
I consider myself a loyal member and acura owner, and all I want is a TAD bit of attention.
This ain't the 1'st, 2'nd or 5'th time I have been simply ignored.
And, No. I don't need a walk or time-out. I posted that, in that way, to make heads turn , for once.
</font>
I ask a simple question, no one wants to take the time to reply to me. But when someone posts STUPID sh*t (Like CL-power) Everyone will take time to reply and such.
I consider myself a loyal member and acura owner, and all I want is a TAD bit of attention.
This ain't the 1'st, 2'nd or 5'th time I have been simply ignored.
And, No. I don't need a walk or time-out. I posted that, in that way, to make heads turn , for once.
</font>
and stop your crying, everyone asks questions that go un-answered
------------------
"the needle got buried at 140.....1,500 RPM later...the tach got buried"
#40
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Astroboy:
Why is it useless?
with the V-AFC, headers and CAI don't you think it could be very useful?
cuz are cars get enought fuel and anyways the ecu resets the fuel pressure back to stock after a day
</font>
Why is it useless?
with the V-AFC, headers and CAI don't you think it could be very useful?
cuz are cars get enought fuel and anyways the ecu resets the fuel pressure back to stock after a day
</font>
------------------
2001 cl type s,custom voltage blue paint job, comptech headers, 18 inch ssr agle strusse rims(painted voltage blue with chrome lip), greddy evo exhaust, cross drilled rotors, pioneer avx 7000 tv, playstation2, iceman cold air intake(custom)nos fuel pressure regulator, piaa ion yellow fog lights, slammed on nex suspension (level ten torque converter and b&m tranny cooler)3.5 litre upgrade on april 16!(dommed topped pistons, mdx crankshaft, rods , bearings, heads ported and polished, vtec timing
my old car www.hondatech.org/99acv6ic.html
my cl-s
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1364953&a=11597233
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