TL Vs. CL Bumper Reinforcement
Will a 2001 TL rear bumper reinforcement fit a 2001 CL? What are the differences? The part numbers are slightly different but the cars are so similar.
CL: 71530-S3M-A00ZZ
TL: 71530-S0K-A00ZZ
I know that S3M means CL and S0K means TL, but I can't see the difference between the two cars beyond the number of doors.
CL: 71530-S3M-A00ZZ
TL: 71530-S0K-A00ZZ
I know that S3M means CL and S0K means TL, but I can't see the difference between the two cars beyond the number of doors.
Will a 2001 TL rear bumper reinforcement fit a 2001 CL? What are the differences? The part numbers are slightly different but the cars are so similar.
CL: 71530-S3M-A00ZZ
TL: 71530-S0K-A00ZZ
I know that S3M means CL and S0K means TL, but I can't see the difference between the two cars beyond the number of doors.
CL: 71530-S3M-A00ZZ
TL: 71530-S0K-A00ZZ
I know that S3M means CL and S0K means TL, but I can't see the difference between the two cars beyond the number of doors.
CL: 71530-S3M-A00ZZ;
CL seems to be shorter (yellow) than the TL (red) below?
TL: 71530-S0K-A00ZZ
I think you're right. If that is the only difference then it might be worth cutting the brackets off of both bumpers and welding the CL brackets to the TL bumper. It is the bumper that is rusted, not the brackets.
There are no new CL bumper reinforcements left in the US. Acura has discontinued the part.
There are no new CL bumper reinforcements left in the US. Acura has discontinued the part.
The problem is that any bumper that I find in the northeast is likely going to be rusty as a result of rain, snow, and road salt here. I found a used repairable one in Philadelphia with less rust than the one on my car. I was hoping to avoid wire wheeling, grinding, welding, more grinding, and painting, but no.
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The problem is that any bumper that I find in the northeast is likely going to be rusty as a result of rain, snow, and road salt here. I found a used repairable one in Philadelphia with less rust than the one on my car. I was hoping to avoid wire wheeling, grinding, welding, more grinding, and painting, but no.
It sounds like a non-rusty part from Karanx7's desert car is your best option.
The climate here in the northeast is rough on cars. I also have to replace my steel brake lines to the rear wheels because of rust and they started leaking. I had to replace all of the brake lines in my Explorer a couple of years ago because they were rusty and one blew out.
I have become an expert in rust repair. My MIG welder is one of the handiest tools in my garage.
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