First off, the car drives completely differently than it ever has. Before the clutch travel was long, yet there was only a short window towards the top of the clutch actually disengaged and putting power to the tranny. That was before, now there is a smooth release all the way through the clutch disengagement, more in line with typical honda manual transmissions. So this goes with my theory that something was wrong with the old one. Doubt i'll get any of my $936 back, just for parts, which is about $250 higher than http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ which is just another dealer. Go figure. The part numbers on the invoice dont match up with the website above, so i dont know if all these parts are different or if the part numbers just arent the same.

 

Make sure you do about 500 miles of gentle stop an go driving before you try any hard launches.

 

Already did 200 this weekend, no lauches, hit vtech twice.

 

Once the clutch is engaged you can rev the engine all you want without hurting the clutch. The clutch is only wearing when it's partially engaged and slipping. You have to slip it some to get the car moving without spinning the tires every time. Just need to keep the slipping to a minimum while the clutch is bedding in.

 

Did you put an OEM clutch/pressure-plate on the car? $936 sounds about right for parts + labor. Although, the clutch/pressure-plate sells for $236 on the net.

 

$936 is just for flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. acura picked up the $1000+ labor cost plus $240 for rental.

 

Why rental?You did not get a loner for this type of work? What's the deal with the clutch, its not cover under the b to b 4/50 warranty. Any clutch that wears out with less than 50k miles I would considered to be a piece of crap and defective IMHO.

All my cars that I have owned in the past have been manual and the dam clutch has lasted 100k plus and over 80k miles with no problems.