Chaptorial

BTW i can't find the 3 piece set in any other form then SS on their website. No red or any other color.

darrinb

i got mine in black so they blend it, sleeper style

they still aint in yet though, i'll get em on when i go back to school cause i work everyday during break

power3dfx

so many problems so far for me....
i can't stay away from vtec anymore!
for real though, i have been getting more vibration but its been getting better (knock on wood). overall, i think it was well worth it. it was the last mod that made my car all the more enjoyable.
i would recommend it, but i don't think its necessary to get all three pieces. the crank was enough for me and i wanted a stock look so the other 2 would kill that.

cant wait for the chip,thats the last step i think for bolt ons except the SC!

Chaptorial

Thanks for the replies guys.

If you buy all three pulleys is it necessary to replace the power steering belt? If so which one should i get?

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I'm also curious

TL_Type_S

Included with your pulley set is the *.pdf printout (also available on UR's website) that states the correct accesory belt to purchase .. it's a NAPA belt .. so it's easily available. It fits perfectly. You can print out the install instructions w/ this belt size info from their website.

darrinb

yea i got napa belts for mine, its gettin installed on wensday

Chaptorial

Cool thanks guys.

Darrin once they go in give us a review ASAP!

flint

iTrader: (2)

I have the silver and they actually stay pretty clean-actually the PS pulley is the only one you can really see but it stays clean.

darrinb

i prolly cant give u a full review till i get new rubber cause with these cold temps and my bald tires 1st gear is just about useless

EricL

Look, if you have an automatic, the slushbox will probably waste itself before the engine – with UR pulley installed -- does. (my opinion).

The pulley DOES NOT have anything to do with "external balancing" (static balance).

It does reduce torsional vibrations and NVH [Noise Vibration and Harshness]. Let someone else debate what was in the mind of the Honda engineer that put that on the car -- OK?

The reasons that you will find front bearings beat up on “some” engines that have had torsional dampers removed (fluid or elastomeric design) from their pulleys are: the torsion vibrations caused the crankshaft to flex MORE than it would with a "stock"/factory pulley. (Some of this "flex" results in additional bearing wear and crankshaft loading; how much is the question? )

The concept -- bearing wear from torsional vibration -- seems to be a bit obscure at first, but a twisting motion that is occurring at each bearing causes the crank bearings to "see" more side loading (even though the "initiating force is torsional (twisting) in nature. More lateral loads means more wear. Depending on the situation, the difference is minor or significant. To date, on the CLS, there haven't been any failures recorded!)

If you have a manual CL Type-S, and plan to boost the power up by quite a bit, and would be disappointed if you didn't get years and years and years of trouble free engine life from your engine, you might want to play it safe. If you have an auto ... well ...

YMMV

mattg

by the time some of these people finally break down and get a set of real pulleys for their cl-s it will be a classic car.

i've had my pulleys for over 15k miles. the car runs smooth, doesn't burn oil and i don't have to tell you it runs strong. the pulleys were installed at my acura dealership by an acura technician. i even had him ask his peers if anyone thought the pulleys would hurt the car. the answer was no.

but keep being pussies, people. it doesn't bother me. i kinda like being one of the few that have a real set of pulleys.

ChadT

So is this different from what I was stating? I just don't feel that it has been proven that the vibration damper (I never called it a balancer) is unnecessary.

Nashua_Night_Hawk

no problem here!

r10apple

Wow...This is an old thread from when I had mine installed...

So, 7 months later and 15k miles of hard driving (52k total miles), there aren't any problems. As mattg said, car runs smoother than ever...

EricL

If there is a chunk of rubber on the front, it is going to damp torsional vibrations – in addition to reducing NVH. You realize that a crankshaft damper reduces NVH by “damping” torsional vibrations. When I talked with UR, they claimed the “factory” pulley was only necessary with more power. So, when is it necessary?

The very fact that it has rubber in it makes it a de facto torsional vibration damper and this type of device will act as a: NVH and "crank torsional vibration damper."


Necessary or not: IMO, depends on how long you want to keep your car and how many power making options you're adding.

ChadT

Yes I agree. I'm all for cheap power but after doing some searching on the subject it just makes me a bit uncomfortable with it. I doubt anyone will have serious problems but torsional vibration does take place and that is the purpose of the damper. I also feel URs resposes to questions and there FAQ is a bit lacking. If it was just on there for NVH I would get the lighter one in a heartbeat. Torsional vibration is a bit scary to me though and I do plan on keeping the car for a while.

flint

iTrader: (2)

Chopsie

Wow, .lots of input on this issue. I myself have been looking into getting a set of UR pullies. Glad to see positive responses.

6spdmanual

installed 4 and half days, smooth like stock.

EricL

I totally agree. I talked to them via this forum, by phone (to the owner and other people), and they "glossed over" a number of issues that could have used a dose of candor.


Now for a trip to the DARK SIDE:

[SIZE=LARGE]Vibrating Crankshafts[/SIZE]

"I heard it through the grapevine, this crank won't last a long time." And for good reason. Like a lot of racers, the owner of the engine in which this crankshaft used to reside was convinced that a vibration damper serves little purpose besides plugging a very large potential oil leak in the front of the timing cover. So he found an old lightweight stock damper that should have been trashed years ago and mounted it on a brand new oval crack race engine. After only two races, a very expensive forged crankshaft parted company with itself.

Although they can't be felt or seen, crankshaft torsional vibrations are very real, destructive forces. They're also a natural by-product of the internal combustion process, so they can't be eliminated. Vibrations can, however, be controlled by - of all things - a vibration damper (also celled a harmonic balancer). But in order to function properly, a damper must have enough mass to absorb the vibrations and must be compatible with the rotating assembly.

Stock type elastomeric dampers, which have a strip of rubber between the hub and inertia ring, are tuned to specific rotating assembly mass and operating speed. Use of a stock damper is therefore ill-advised if piston, connecting rod end/or crankshaft weight differs from stock specifications or if normal engine operating speed is significantly higher than a stock engine's rpm range.

Many racers avoid compatibility problems by installing a viscous damper which does not have to be tuned to a specific rotating assembly mass or operating speed. Viscous dampers are amplitude sensitive (elastomer dampers are frequency sensitive) which means they respond to the amount of crankshaft vibration, not the frequency at which it occurs.



http://www.rolmfg.com/Technical/HPI/Cranks.htm

darrinb

mine goes on in about 14 hrs!!!!

ChadT

EricL, Hadn't seen that one yet. I've also noticed that most race engines (at least road race engines) are not running without dampers.

Chaptorial

My set of three (3) will be installed on the 26th.

fusionnv

It like tab or other things. Won't get cancer today. Down the line maybe u will. Same with crankshaft pulleys. Won't have problems in 10k 15k etc. Maybe when u will have problems at 50-60k. Nobody will know yet.

showgunz

Exactly. No one will know until you put at least about 50K miles on the engine with this mod. And by then, you guys probably would've traded the car in or not driving it much anymore. Until further notice on the possible bearing and crankshaft damage from UR pullies, why not just let the speculation die down and just see? I'm doing engine oil analysis on my car to monitor engine bearing wear and it looks good so far. As for me, I have about 15K miles so far as well. So if you don't want to worry, don't get it! Leave it to people who want the power. :P