I frequent these forums but rarely ask questions anymore. I mostly read and have learned tons.

As I type this, my buddy is replacing my axles on my 6 speed cl. I bought the parts and he owes me a favor. I just didn't have the time to do it. He called to tell me the passenger side axlE has two pieces. An inner and outer shaft. I never saw a part listing for and inner shaft so i didn't get one. Question is, should I have replaced it? Did those who hAve done their axles replaced the inner as well?

I replaced mine about 7 days ago. It had 131K and was original to the car. The whole assembly is #18 on the link below:

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

When I removed it from the car and firmly held the bearing case against a flat surface, the intermediate shaft had alot of rotational play without spinning the shaft in the bearing. Compared to the new one, it was substantial. However, to check for play the part needs to be removed, the shaft is fixed inside the tranny and the bearing case is affixed to the block, so no play would be recognized.

If you decide to replace it, this part is also for the 98-01 V6 Accord. I purchased mine shipped for $207.30 from an online Honda parts place.

After a front end Collison two years ago, my tranny was replaced because the bell housing had a small crack on the bottom. It looked like someone jacked up the car by the tranny honestly. Anyway, a new Honda trans shipped strait from Japan was installed. Do you think the trans came with the inside shaft?

No, it wouldnt have come with the intermediate shaft.

It doesnt have to be replaced, but if it shows any wear, you should.

Is your friend familiar with these cars?

How many miles are on the car?

What axle brand did you go with?

The intermediate shouldnt need to be replaced. There are NO CV joints on it. The only thing to really go out on it would be the bearing and you can simply get a new one for it if needed.

I agree. In my case, I believe my differential bearings are starting to go after 131K. Even though the half shaft bearing was not making any noticable noise, when it was compared to the new one, as mentioned above, the rotational play of the half shaft in the bearing case, without spinning it, was alot.

True, as well. There is an outer half shaft seal there too that probably would need replacing also.

fsttyms1, next time you have the half shaft assembly out of your hyper-mile TL, check for rotational play.

My friend works for a suspension shop and front end specialist shop. Been there 15 years. I was unaware that the axle was two pieces on the passenger side. I left the parts in the trunk and gave him the car to do the work. When he got to his shop he opened the parts and called to make me aware that there was no intermediate shaft and it didn't need to be replaced but did I want to replace it.

The axles are Cardone. I had an alignment done too. No more clicking! Yay! The whole front end feels like New again. My axles were toasted. The car pulled left hard before. Now at speeds under 50 it drives strait for the most part. But on the highway above 50 it pulls to the left just like before. ?????

Heres the alignment report:

Front left. Front right

actual. Before. Spec range. Actual. Before. Spec range
0.0. 0.0. -1.0 to 1.0. Camber. -0.3. -0.3. -1.0 to 1.0
3.0. 3.0. 1.8 to 3.8. Caster. 3.0. 3.0. 1.8 to 3.8
0.00. O.11. -0.08 to 0.08. Toe. 0.00. 0.22. - 0.08 to 0.08



Rear left. Rear right
actual Before Spec range Actual Before Spec range
-1.0. -1.1. -1.0 to 1.0. Camber. -0.8. -0.8. -1.0 to 1.0
0.02. 0.02. 0.00 to 0.16. Toe. 0.10. 0.14. 0.00 to 0.16

Front
cross camber 0.3
Cross caster. 0.0
Cross sai. 0.3
Total toe. 0.00

Rear
cross camber. -0.3
Total toe. 0.12
Thrust angle. -0.04


Sorry for all the punctuation inserted in there and the crude graph. My computer is taking a dump and im using my tablet to type this.

Ok....that graph looked good before I posted it I swear! Trying to post a pic of the report. Bear with me...

Ok try this.....

I see from the alignment image you posted that the caster on both front wheels is at 3.0.

When I replaced my radius rod bushings last summer and had a subsequent alignment performed, the guy doing the alignment stated that you want .5 of a degree more caster on the passenger side to account for the crown in the road. Otherwise, the car would tend to pull to the right.

Mine came in at 2.9 on the driver side and 3.5 on the pass. side. The car steers straight and stops from a high speed in a straight stable line.

Since your car is pulling to the left, I not sure that this would apply to your case; however, it might be something to discuss with the mechanic.

In addition, it is a somewhat involved process to adjust the caster on the CLS, so be mindful of the additional cost if you choose to adjust.

Good luck.

Zeta and everyone else thanks for your input today. My buddy is gonna recheck everything monday or tuesday this week. Ill mention the .5 difference in the castor. At higher speeds it really pulls to the left. Its a shame becuase other than that the car rides better than it has in a long time.

i rock my caster dead center.. this mean ur always compensating for road crown with the steering wheel instead. i did this so when u brake there is no bias. cause if the road is flat or slanted to the left then u'll not be likeing the set-up. when it was off before i could tell. to each his own tho i guess. no right answer

Even after replacing the bearing there was some rotational play in mine (bearing was OEM)

What kind of symptoms/noise, if any, did you notice when it came time to replace the bearing?

Or was it just preventative maintenence at a certian mileage?

Thanks.

I had a wheel bearing blow apart causing my axle to bind and break. I just replaced it as something cautionary.