Supercharger Myths
#41
Moderator Alumnus
eh, stop horsing around with all of that forced induction...
Grab your cutter, tig welder and the shoe horn...
slap this baby in there
http://www.fordcobraengines.com/418w_515HP.htm
Grab your cutter, tig welder and the shoe horn...
slap this baby in there
http://www.fordcobraengines.com/418w_515HP.htm
#43
#44
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Originally posted by SiGGy
eh, stop horsing around with all of that forced induction...
Grab your cutter, tig welder and the shoe horn...
slap this baby in there
http://www.fordcobraengines.com/418w_515HP.htm
eh, stop horsing around with all of that forced induction...
Grab your cutter, tig welder and the shoe horn...
slap this baby in there
http://www.fordcobraengines.com/418w_515HP.htm
#45
Moderator Alumnus
Originally posted by proaudio22
That is for babies. Quit horsing around with that Ford shit. How about this $16,500 jewel. 610hp, 650 ft-lbs. Hehe, let's swap some cams and put a blower on this baby. 528ci Hemi
That is for babies. Quit horsing around with that Ford shit. How about this $16,500 jewel. 610hp, 650 ft-lbs. Hehe, let's swap some cams and put a blower on this baby. 528ci Hemi
I just typed "stroker crate engine" in google. And used a link that looked good...
LOL, I'll umm make sure to post a pic of a top fuel engine next time
#46
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Originally posted by lou
dude thank you very much for this information I will carefully look into this. I cant believe I can have that much power and still be under warranty.
dude thank you very much for this information I will carefully look into this. I cant believe I can have that much power and still be under warranty.
DUDE, no problem
I did some diggin, and I found out that for an additional $500 you get a four year warranty that I think covers the entire car, so its def worth getting IMO, if you go w/the HPS system....so for about $9k total you will be in the 300s+ rwhp and 300+rwtQ, still have a full warranty vs. the kleeman system that will run you $11K, un-installed, and partial warranty...
Also, HPS looks to be pretty reputable so good luck w/that venture
#47
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Originally posted by unsure
How much more would you expect if some a-f tuning was done on the acuras
How much more would you expect if some a-f tuning was done on the acuras
#48
lover and fighter
I am staring at just enough extra $$$ to buy the s/c .. and now i'm debating on getting it or not on my TL-S .. just keep worrying about the auto tranny
My real problem is I'm trying to find a dealer in Florida to do the install and cover warranty issues with my tranny (since I've fried it already). Secondly, I still can't get an answer from CT over the piggyback ECU issue with the auto tranny. Is this part completed? Modaddict--do you know?
Scalbert, you really couldn't have said this any better. I don't want this thing from a stop, it's the performance from a roll that I want: Highway driving, passing, vacationing in the mountains...I just want that extra edge and I totally want the reliability to boot. I really, really like this car and it will be paid for soon. I want to keep it for a good while and I want to add these mods relatively soon...
#49
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Originally posted by r10apple
My real problem is I'm trying to find a dealer in Florida to do the install
My real problem is I'm trying to find a dealer in Florida to do the install
Having done one, a secound would be a snap...
#50
lover and fighter
I can see it now:
s/c install (sans warranty) in exchange for 20 prepaid phonecards to call Oregon, shipping costs for intercoolers and pulleys for your pet projects, and 2 cases of diapers.
Come to think of it, hmm....
s/c install (sans warranty) in exchange for 20 prepaid phonecards to call Oregon, shipping costs for intercoolers and pulleys for your pet projects, and 2 cases of diapers.
Come to think of it, hmm....
#51
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Originally posted by unsure
I am a believer of the s/c...but there is one thing that does bother me....
For example, a few members over at v6p.net have an s/c on their accord v6s...and some are dynoing in the 240+whp ish with i/h/e and s/c...I just find it odd that these guys would dyno higher than a automatic Tl-S/cl-S, although the acuras have higher base hp(260hp vs 200hp) and an extra gear in their tranny....I do not think the accord guys are using the HBP for their cars, but yet they are getting better dyno numbers than the s/c'ed tl-s/cl-s....some that have an HBP are dynoing in the 250-260whp ranger w/all the bolt ons....I will admit tho, most guys w/the s/c av6's are more active in tuning their cars i.e. V-afc and A-f ratios, thus I dont know the aspect those factors have in obtaining their dyno #s.
I am a believer of the s/c...but there is one thing that does bother me....
For example, a few members over at v6p.net have an s/c on their accord v6s...and some are dynoing in the 240+whp ish with i/h/e and s/c...I just find it odd that these guys would dyno higher than a automatic Tl-S/cl-S, although the acuras have higher base hp(260hp vs 200hp) and an extra gear in their tranny....I do not think the accord guys are using the HBP for their cars, but yet they are getting better dyno numbers than the s/c'ed tl-s/cl-s....some that have an HBP are dynoing in the 250-260whp ranger w/all the bolt ons....I will admit tho, most guys w/the s/c av6's are more active in tuning their cars i.e. V-afc and A-f ratios, thus I dont know the aspect those factors have in obtaining their dyno #s.
Both are running the high boost pulley, pushing a consistent 9 to 10lbs of boost. The CLS with this same pulley pushes a little less 7 to 8lbs, as I think Scalbert explained the boost differences in a different thread.
That being said, Tool has the CLS cams, 410cc RC injectors, extrued honed upper and lower plenums, high volume fuel pump, less restrictive fuel filter, lightweight UR supercharger crank pulley, every Comptech bolt on they sell, vfac/vtec controller, a specially tuned fuel pressure regulator, special cold spark plugs and the high boost pulley for the supercharger.
I forgot his 13lb 18" Volk LE-37T's and his lightweight VIS carbon fiber hood, 17 lbs!
He's done extensive tuning on the dyno, over 100 pulls to get it to where he has it today and with no nitrous.
He's running 14 flat at the track now and consistenly, giving my modded CLS fits and other people at V6 are taking some of his ideas to make some big leaps in hp immediately.
He's done a lot of extra work that most don't do but I have no doubts that an auto CLS with all the Comptech bolt-ons and supercharger, with the high boost pulley, could go 270-280 to the wheels on a dyno with enough fuel and the right tuning.
They've just gone to further extremes to gain hp using the supercharger, most here don't go that far, so I think the supercharger is not only worth it but capable of more than some realize.
This is why I love some of the things Scalbert is exploring with our CL and the supercharger.
#53
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Originally posted by fender4
my plans for a sc are at the 100k mile mark,,will a tired engine handle a sc ?
my plans for a sc are at the 100k mile mark,,will a tired engine handle a sc ?
#55
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Originally posted by fender4
my plans for a sc are at the 100k mile mark,,will a tired engine handle a sc ?
my plans for a sc are at the 100k mile mark,,will a tired engine handle a sc ?
#57
Lead Footed
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
remember, in drag race, the egine rpms would be between 4500 and redline after the first shift. This is where the headers shine in performance! This where they excel the most.
Also, like on my CLS and Mike dynos I saw a good 5-10 lbft of torque for the headers below 5500 rpms!
remember, in drag race, the egine rpms would be between 4500 and redline after the first shift. This is where the headers shine in performance! This where they excel the most.
Also, like on my CLS and Mike dynos I saw a good 5-10 lbft of torque for the headers below 5500 rpms!
While it's not the majority, it's often where races are won and lost. My record without headers verses guys with headers speaks for itself.
I'd have to look up my old timeslips, but I'm willing to bet that even though they are making more power on the big end, it's not enough to offset my advantage on the start and then catch me in the 1/4.
Ruf
#58
Lead Footed
Originally posted by fender4
my plans for a sc are at the 100k mile mark,,will a tired engine handle a sc ?
my plans for a sc are at the 100k mile mark,,will a tired engine handle a sc ?
Refresh usually consisted of tear down, cleaning the block, new rings and bearings, check and reseat or grind valves, polish crank if necessary, new valve guides, gaskets, etc.
This is in part why I've had the reputation of getting a lot of miles and years verses the other guys I hung with.
Ruf
#59
Lead Footed
Originally posted by ModAddict
I might be the only S/C 5AT dyno so far, so I'm not sure that is an accurate statement. My dyno was 240 hp, 124 ftlb tq, with no tuning, and thru the stock exaust, no headers or any other mods. I have since added headers and expect to be at 260-270. Add pulleys, B-pipe, exhaust, light wheels/tires, and tuning,.... maybe 280-290 with tuning and all the bolt-ons? Automatics will always have a higher parasitic hp loss than the manuals, but in my case, I wanted the auto this time.
I might be the only S/C 5AT dyno so far, so I'm not sure that is an accurate statement. My dyno was 240 hp, 124 ftlb tq, with no tuning, and thru the stock exaust, no headers or any other mods. I have since added headers and expect to be at 260-270. Add pulleys, B-pipe, exhaust, light wheels/tires, and tuning,.... maybe 280-290 with tuning and all the bolt-ons? Automatics will always have a higher parasitic hp loss than the manuals, but in my case, I wanted the auto this time.
Ruf
#60
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Originally posted by Smitty
When exactly do you plan on hitting 100k?.... I would worry more about the tranny than the motor at that mileage.
When exactly do you plan on hitting 100k?.... I would worry more about the tranny than the motor at that mileage.
#61
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Originally posted by RUF87
IMO, as an old engine builder years ago (20+), my rule was to always refresh the motor when doing an upgrade that added significantly more HP.
Refresh usually consisted of tear down, cleaning the block, new rings and bearings, check and reseat or grind valves, polish crank if necessary, new valve guides, gaskets, etc.
This is in part why I've had the reputation of getting a lot of miles and years verses the other guys I hung with.
Ruf
IMO, as an old engine builder years ago (20+), my rule was to always refresh the motor when doing an upgrade that added significantly more HP.
Refresh usually consisted of tear down, cleaning the block, new rings and bearings, check and reseat or grind valves, polish crank if necessary, new valve guides, gaskets, etc.
This is in part why I've had the reputation of getting a lot of miles and years verses the other guys I hung with.
Ruf
#63
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Originally posted by 1SICKLEX
Scalbert, awesome post. Gavron saw u post on some other board and was wondering when we will see u again. We have yet to see the S/C.
Scalbert, awesome post. Gavron saw u post on some other board and was wondering when we will see u again. We have yet to see the S/C.
#66
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Originally posted by scalbert
I would say about $700 - $1000. But you know a short drive south would get this on the car for you for nothing.
I would say about $700 - $1000. But you know a short drive south would get this on the car for you for nothing.
DAM nice Southern Hospitality
#67
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You Got That Right !
Not only is he one of the most Knowlegeable guys on the board, but also one of the nicest !
Sorry Steve, hope that's NOT tarnishing your image dude !
Not only is he one of the most Knowlegeable guys on the board, but also one of the nicest !
Sorry Steve, hope that's NOT tarnishing your image dude !
Originally posted by fender4
DAM nice Southern Hospitality
DAM nice Southern Hospitality
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