This is meant as an aid for those who will be getting the blower and installing it themselves. I'm doing this in parts and will attempt to document all of it as I move along. I also want to test bits and pieces as this is a new kit.

I started the install tonight but started on step 16, the fueling. This kit comes with a new fuel pump and FPR (fuel pressure regulator). Since these are always potential issue areas I figured I'd start with them in order to get a few miles on both in case a problem does arise. I'll hook up the laptop tomorrow night to check the fuel trim values. But the initial drive felt fine so I expect it to work well.

Regardless of how much time a manufacturer puts into a kit like this there can always be additional comments which might aid others in their endeavors. Such as the case here; there were small points that were left out or not thought of in the direction and below outlines a few of them thus far.

First off the removal of the fuel pump; this was straight forward and no deviation from the directions was needed. Both the supply and return fuel lines use the quick disconnect clips so no tool is needed.





But when it came to disassembling the fuel pump assembly and replacing the cartridge is when I hit the first hurdle. The upper spring clamp was not coming loose. So I clipped it off with a pair of dykes and replaced it with a worm clamp. This can be seen in the second pic below. Be sure to have either a new spring clamp or worm clamp just in case.

The first one below is hard to make of the actual pump assembly in the black tub since it is black.




Next came the FPR which was quite easy excluding the physical mounting of the body. The location shown was not where a vacuum line was mounted for me. But I used the closest one and it turned out fine. I did have to slightly cock the FPR to one side but in the end all was set in a relaxed position.





That's it for the fueling requirements. I'll give this a day or two to fully get tested and then move on to more of the mechanical parts. The next part will be the installation of the end support along with the alternator/initial SC drive pulley. I will also tackle the battery tray installation along with the smaller battery being put in place. I also hope to add the ESM and boost gauge that night. In all I expect this installation to be completed by this weekend. Then on to the springs...

 

nice job! this should go in the archives


BTW, are u gonna use the icebox that was supplied w/the kit
or are u gonna use the one u fabricated?

 

Very Nice. I like your methodical approach to this project - makes a lot of sense not to bite off too much at a time.

 

NICE, very nice!!!

Can't wait to see the finished product!!!
Keep the pics coming!!!

 

very of you to do this.


it should prove to be invaluable to the do it yourself crowd.

 

cool, thanks

 

Purtty color contrast on that FPR!


Step #16 makes makes sense to me.
Sail on!

 

Great job!!!! Looking forward to the whole series. Keep up the good work.

 

Two thumbs up for Scalbert’s new digital camera.
I’m glad he decided to upgrade into the digital age before undertaking this installation tutorial for us.

Shawn S

 

Yes, I'll be using the Ice Box as it was designed for this project and looks much nicer.

 

I knew someone was going to mention that...

Hey, the other was digital, just a DV camera.

 

I already need to track down my first issue. There is a slight rattling sound at idle which I suspect to be the FPR mounted to the firewall. I'll pull it loose tonight and see if it goes away. I'll then isolate it with a rubber grommet of foam tape and give it a try.

More on this later.

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you for your excellent photodocumentation and technical commentary.

 

I found out what the sound was, the FPR. The way I mounted it must have allowed it to reverberate enough to send sound into the cabin. It wasn't noticeable when under the hood or even in the car with the door open. But close the door and you could hear it. To test it I unbolted the FPR from its firewall mount and hung it on the engine for a test. I started the engine and there was no sound at all.

To re-cap, the instruction sheet mentioned a mounting point which was not available. Referring to the Comptech PDF I downloaded for better pictures, the same point was not available. I did find one open but this was further to the passenger side and had major interference with a serious wire harness strapped to the firewall. Not wanting to hurt that and not having another decent local I decided to make my own. The previous one used fit the description in that it had a vacuum hose attachment (to be removed) but it was too far to the drivers side.

I could see where a potential hole could be which would have matched the locale in the Comptech manual and was probably utilized by Comptech. But on my car this still had sheet metal. So I drilled it out. I then re-mounted the FPR and tightened the fittings (they were loosened to allow for self adjustment when re-locating the FPR). This new mount allowed for the tighter fit with no over hang as with last nights mount.

This took care of 80% of the sound from the FPR. There is still a little left which can only be heard with the HVAC and the radio off but enough for me to still take care of it. I'm going to bring home from the office some 1/8 inch high-temp sponge foam we use. I'll cut it to size with provisions for the mounting hole. This should completely take care of any FPR related sounds.

One other minor issue; the supplied vaccum line was not long enough with the re-location. I used some I had from previous projects. Since I planned in teeing in here for the boost gauge this wasn't a concern.

Below are pics of the relocation. Tomorrow will definitely be the electrical portion.

 

Steve... good job documenting this. However... I did find the spot that Comptech recommends. It eliminates any sound coming from the FPR. It's about 6" to the left of where you have mounted it. It's a PAIN IN THE ASS to bolt it down. You have to remove the entire plastic piece under the windshield wipers to actually get a ratchet in there. And you are correct... the vacuum hose doesn't fit!

Here's a link:

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/gunjan_ra...c=ph%26.view=t

I can take a better picture if you'd like.

 

I found that empty hole that it appears you used. But there was a large wiring harness against the firewall which would have been rubbed by the FPR. Or if I used the rear threads it the fuel supply line would have hit part of the engine.

So to be safe, and since I had the cowl off, I drilled my own hole which allowed the best mounting well away from any obstructions and the lines are relaxed. The remaining sound might not be heard by most but with the HVAC off and the radio I can hear it. I've got the sponge mat in my trunk now and will fix that tonight.

One question for you, where did you tie in a fuel pressure gauge?? I see there are two ports on the FPR which might be able to be used. I just need to find out what size threads are used. If they are AN I just hope they are #6 since I have a couple #6 x 1/8 NPT elbows...

 

Port #1 is where the stock regulator used to sit. Port #2 is sort of like a cap with a plastic hat (it holds the incomming fuel hose from the tank). I took that out, used a B&M bolt (it is hollow and has a hole on its side to accept fuel from the hose). On top of that, the fittings from the B&M fuel pressure guage (along with an elbow) did the trick. If you buy the B&M guage, it comes with enough of the goodies to make it happen. I'll take a good picture later on today.

 

Yea, that is the fuel pressure dampener (smoothes out pressure fluctuations). What was the part number of the B&M pressure gauge you used??

Thanks...

 

I checked the fuel trim values last night and they were right where they had been with the stock set up. Everything looked good from the fueling standpoint.

 

Steve. It's the B&M Part# 46054. It's like $30 most places.