italiaCLs

I have this problem with my e-brake that has been getting progressively worse. everytime i push the gas a little the e brake light illuminates on the dash. when the car shifts into 4th gear the light then goes off. the harder I accelerte the longer the light stays on. it is mostly in 1st, 2nd, and sometimes third gear that it will be on while the throttle is applied and when I let go and simply stay at a consistant speed the light goes away. Anyone know what this is? it is to the point now where I will accelerate normally and the light will still go on and stay on until I rach 4rth..

jproy

The only two reasons it is supposed to come on; if your brake fluid is low because you have a fluid leak or your brake pads are worn out or significant wear on your brake pads has displaced enough brake fluid from the resevoir to trip the low fluid indicator float switch in the cap of the master cylinder. The other reason is if the parking brake is engaged or if the parking brake switch it going. Since I have experienced this first hand though, I would bet you are just low on brake fluid in the master cylinder resevoir do to brake pad wear and there is now more of the fluid that was in the master cylinder behind those large pisons in the BBK calipers you have and the two pistons, one in each caliper, on the rear brakes.

Now how much WHP you puting down on the dyno?

fsttyms1

It is common for the float on the cap to be getting hung up, make sure it moves freely. Also double check that the fluid level is topped off

underst8

guys he's talking about his e-brake light not the brakes/abs light. I would guess either your e-brake needs physical adjustment or the sensor that determines the actual position is miscalibrated/needs replacement.

There are instructions for adjusting the e-brake somewhere on here.

jproy

So are we. The E-BRAKE light on the dash is a dual purpuse indicator. It obviously tells you when the e-brake is engaged and it also illuminates when master cylinder resevoir is low on brake fluid. Pull the cap off your master cylinder resevoir and trip the float in the cap and go look at your BRAKE indicator if you want to check it out.

jproy

Its actually not a float but a black diaphragm that gets sucked into an elongated conical shape/position when the vacuum of the emptying reservoir pulls it down. To reset it you need to gently collapse it back into the reservoir cap.

silvervtec96

My ebrake light comes on when the temp gets around 45 or colder out. Granted doesnt' happen much in FL, bu its the only coorelation I can make when the light came on. It was like clock work. Take car out of garage, as soon as the temp gauge hit 45 out, ebrake light came on. I'm guessing something is up with the sensor that turns the light on...

jproy

Just top off the master cylinder reservoir and reset the diaphragm in the cap and it will take care of it! I doubt you have a faulty switch although it is a remote possibility. The changing temps are more than likely causing enough thermal contraction and expansion of all the parts of the system to flip the sensor on and off if you are on the tipping point of activating the switch. If you don't have a thorough understanding of physics, just about everything on the planet expands when heated and contracts when cooled ever so slightly. That is why you should not beat on your motor until it is warmed up, it was broken in with everything expanded to where it is at full operating temperature.

cltypeSLOW

my car does the same shit, but like that floridian said....mine only does it when its cold out.

jproy

Its normal guys. It happened to me and the most common and likely fix is described above.

LukeaTron

jproy, it seems you're going to have make a rubber stamp with that reply on it.

Listen to him people.

TOPHER33884

iTrader: (6)

Hey now, carefull with the word "Floridian"! LOL, the same thing happened to me, and it was the level indicator inside the master cylinder cap!

jproy

Your kidding, really?

italiaCLs

Now how much WHP you puting down on the dyno?[/QUOTE]

I am putting down about 355 WHP.

jproy

Nice! I was wondering when you were going to finally come check your thread? I am about to go with the emanage ultimate, HBP, and professional tune at Jotech in Dallas. Nice numbers but I thought they would be slightly higher. I think most 6mt CLers are doing 330whp with just the HBP at 6lb. I guess there is a wall you run up against due to our compression ratio, efficiency, and lack of inter cooler.

italiaCLs

well i have a chemical intercooler which acts exactally the same as cooler the air inlet temps. but it also enhances the air/fuel ratio so it can void the misfiring, retarding, and detination. (methanol)