Stone Headers: Please do NOT install before reading this post.
08-17-2003, 05:58 AM
#47
Liquid Ice
Originally posted by fender4
we need more header inputs,, someone measure your Stones (no pun intended,, but that is pretty funny) ,, Comptech,,, OBX,, ??? ,,
we need more header inputs,, someone measure your Stones (no pun intended,, but that is pretty funny) ,, Comptech,,, OBX,, ??? ,,
08-17-2003, 06:56 AM
#50
TRELOS
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Originally posted by Mr
I know that they will eventually turn a golden color because of the heat. What can I do to make them stay shiney for a long time.....
I know that they will eventually turn a golden color because of the heat. What can I do to make them stay shiney for a long time.....
Jett Hot for nothing but shine and looks, nothing more.
Swain if u want true heat barrier coating, but alas no shine. It is a white coating.
Juker008
08-17-2003, 07:03 AM
#52
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sounds like the same bullshit I went through w/ my OBX's. Let the ranting begin.
08-17-2003, 08:36 AM
#53
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
I took measurement of the stock headers exactly as it was done in the photos.
Here are the measurements:
Dim #1: Stock headers: 18.0”. SR Headers: 18 3/8”. Difference is + 0.375” or +9.525mm
Dim #2: Stock headers: 17.5”. SR Headers: 17 11/16”. Difference is +0.1875” or +4.7625mm
So, the maximum difference is no more that 9.5mm. it's possible to attach all bolts and nuts before tightening the block’s nuts, it would have worked for fender4.
So, it's a fact the flanges are NOT parallel. There is 0.5" difference.
Here are the measurements:
Dim #1: Stock headers: 18.0”. SR Headers: 18 3/8”. Difference is + 0.375” or +9.525mm
Dim #2: Stock headers: 17.5”. SR Headers: 17 11/16”. Difference is +0.1875” or +4.7625mm
So, the maximum difference is no more that 9.5mm. it's possible to attach all bolts and nuts before tightening the block’s nuts, it would have worked for fender4.
So, it's a fact the flanges are NOT parallel. There is 0.5" difference.
08-17-2003, 09:39 AM
#54
Three Wheelin'
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very interesting,,,, could it be don't torque the header flange to the heads and then try to install the down pipe ??? I have ask the mech's this and their response was it had to be done this way or the header gaskets would leak ??? JENS I sent you a e mail,,, what is the correct install procedure.
others during install please finger tighten header flange and then see how far off the down pipe is,,, loosen and then start the down pipe bolts and see if the header flange will fit,,,
Like I said in the beginning I might have a incorrect install procedure,, hopefully I can now DIY and have a 200 dollar learning experience...
others during install please finger tighten header flange and then see how far off the down pipe is,,, loosen and then start the down pipe bolts and see if the header flange will fit,,,
Like I said in the beginning I might have a incorrect install procedure,, hopefully I can now DIY and have a 200 dollar learning experience...
08-17-2003, 09:59 AM
#55
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
Just to note also,
that when installing the SR set on my CLS, we did it the same way fender4 did and we had minor alignment, like 2-3mm. It was not problem at all. If we did not tighened the headers to the block it would not be a problem at all. I have no leaks either.
that when installing the SR set on my CLS, we did it the same way fender4 did and we had minor alignment, like 2-3mm. It was not problem at all. If we did not tighened the headers to the block it would not be a problem at all. I have no leaks either.
08-17-2003, 12:02 PM
#56
Three Wheelin'
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Here's directions to install headers, as Nashau said, only start the nuts on the header studs,........ http://www.comptechusa.com/instructions/ins028.pdf
08-17-2003, 12:15 PM
#57
Senior Moderator
lol @ comptech instructions. :o
08-17-2003, 12:25 PM
#58
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
Comptech is recommending the opposite way fender4 did.
The only thing that does matter, do not tighten any bolt till all bolts/nuts are connected.
I also recommed to tighten a bit the front rear headers to the A-pipe before the block.
Then, torque all to spec.
The only thing that does matter, do not tighten any bolt till all bolts/nuts are connected.
I also recommed to tighten a bit the front rear headers to the A-pipe before the block.
Then, torque all to spec.
08-17-2003, 01:12 PM
#60
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Originally posted by fender4
#&$^$(&* *&#$^($^^#@^
#&$^$(&* *&#$^($^^#@^
And the gasket comment he gave you,.....
08-17-2003, 01:31 PM
#62
Safety Car
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Originally posted by mattg
lol @ comptech instructions. :o
lol @ comptech instructions. :o
08-17-2003, 02:56 PM
#64
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I planned this,,, also will use this thread as ref. sooooo they (Steve) will be reading this,,, blame fest is not the issue,,, getting them on my car is all I'm concerned with at this time,,,
Just wish I had those Comptech Install Instru.
Just wish I had those Comptech Install Instru.
08-17-2003, 04:21 PM
#66
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
Originally posted by bullaculla
They make it sound so easy. did you guys remove anything to get to the rear header bolts?
They make it sound so easy. did you guys remove anything to get to the rear header bolts?
08-18-2003, 05:53 PM
#70
Black is a ***** to Clean
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So with those w/ headers installed..how are you enjoying them?
Any OBX-like "moo" sounds? I hope not.
Also, what is the best way to clean out that black crap from the inside of the headers? It seems like a towel might be too hard to use to clean the insides. I'm thinking maybe a rag or something on a stick or something to get all the deep areas.
Any OBX-like "moo" sounds? I hope not.
Also, what is the best way to clean out that black crap from the inside of the headers? It seems like a towel might be too hard to use to clean the insides. I'm thinking maybe a rag or something on a stick or something to get all the deep areas.
08-18-2003, 07:43 PM
#74
TRELOS
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OK lets see if I've got this straight. The Stones do have an alignment problem, but the problem is small enough to still allow the headers to bolt on?
Now for those of u that have teh headers already on was it a DIY job or did u have the shop do it for u? OH and get those dynoes done already.
Juker008
Now for those of u that have teh headers already on was it a DIY job or did u have the shop do it for u? OH and get those dynoes done already.
Juker008
08-19-2003, 07:27 AM
#75
Suzuka Master
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Having read this I am curious about one thing, longevity.
If there is an alignment problem, even very slight, by torqueing them down to correct the alignment will tress the joints at locations not intended. This could lead to premature weld failures.
Just a thought as I haven't seen how far off this is.
If there is an alignment problem, even very slight, by torqueing them down to correct the alignment will tress the joints at locations not intended. This could lead to premature weld failures.
Just a thought as I haven't seen how far off this is.
08-19-2003, 09:35 AM
#77
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Originally posted by scalbert
Having read this I am curious about one thing, longevity.
If there is an alignment problem, even very slight, by torqueing them down to correct the alignment will tress the joints at locations not intended. This could lead to premature weld failures.
Just a thought as I haven't seen how far off this is.
Having read this I am curious about one thing, longevity.
If there is an alignment problem, even very slight, by torqueing them down to correct the alignment will tress the joints at locations not intended. This could lead to premature weld failures.
Just a thought as I haven't seen how far off this is.
HERE"S The AUTO SHOPS comments,, note they have a valid concern,,, also note that getting a replacement set is NOT the issue by me..
I can not stress how much I disagree with your vendors assesment as to the proper installation of these headers on your car, even though Comptech's procedure instructs to leave the primary header loose, the interferance tension we would create when tightening the pipe so it will bend up about 1", and the twist load placed on the 2 flanges when they are forced to align the 1/4" twist will pre stress the exhaust studs, the primary head pipes, and the lead A pipe to the point of failure. I think if he were to realize how far off from center these were manufactured, he would agree that their is a problem.
Any reputable manufacturer would simply ship you another set, instead of waisting my and your time having us attempt to install these il-manufacturted parts again.
I didn't post this for the FLAMMING to begin,, he just wants to be sure he dosn't damage the heads on the car,,,
08-19-2003, 09:46 AM
#78
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
Fender4,
why it is not possible to pull-in the 2 pipes using a hammer, or attaching the 2 ends of the pipes with a "ratcheting strap" and tightening a bit more, there are multiple ways to correct this 9.7mm diffrence.
Nashua
why it is not possible to pull-in the 2 pipes using a hammer, or attaching the 2 ends of the pipes with a "ratcheting strap" and tightening a bit more, there are multiple ways to correct this 9.7mm diffrence.
Nashua
08-19-2003, 09:59 AM
#79
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Just a comment on the Comptech header installation, which I have done four times.
I installed both the front and rear headers and hand tightened the bolts half way and installed the A-Pipe. I aligned both flanges on the header and A-pipe before torqueing them down Then, when I went to tighten the header, it was flush and already perfectly seated as it should be. So torqueing the header nuts did not involving seating the header flange; the nuts touched only when snug to the head.
I don't recall them being that far out. Here are Shawn's pictures of the 6-Speed Comptech Headers:
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=75314
I installed both the front and rear headers and hand tightened the bolts half way and installed the A-Pipe. I aligned both flanges on the header and A-pipe before torqueing them down Then, when I went to tighten the header, it was flush and already perfectly seated as it should be. So torqueing the header nuts did not involving seating the header flange; the nuts touched only when snug to the head.
I don't recall them being that far out. Here are Shawn's pictures of the 6-Speed Comptech Headers:
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=75314
08-19-2003, 10:04 AM
#80
TRELOS
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fender,
U shop is more concerned about the heads of the block than the headers? So because of the stresses impossed by the missalignment headers could warp the heads, or would it dammage the threads in the head? I'm just curious because I couldn't imagine the head being dammaged from the stress of a missaligned header. Then again heads are aluminium and the headers are SS. Hmmmm I would need more info about this.
Juker008
U shop is more concerned about the heads of the block than the headers? So because of the stresses impossed by the missalignment headers could warp the heads, or would it dammage the threads in the head? I'm just curious because I couldn't imagine the head being dammaged from the stress of a missaligned header. Then again heads are aluminium and the headers are SS. Hmmmm I would need more info about this.
Juker008