It seems like when Im in 4th and 5th gear, I have a wobble/vibration in my steering wheel.

Few things to be noted:

-It is ONLY under acceleration
-I JUST put new tires on, <300 miles ago.
-The tires have been balanced, twice.
-It was doing this with my old tires, except it was 5 times worse.

What could it be? Bent rim maybe?

 

Just had this very same problem, and since i'm around 130 k I started thinking of things like suspension and motor mounts, but the culprit was a bent front driver side rim. I figure oh well, I need two new tires too so it might be time to drop some coin for a whole new setup..

Cliff Notes
-Same problem recently
-Car checked out
-Problem was bent rim
-New rims and tires are coming soon

 

Swap your rims/tires front to back & test drive.

 

that's what i thought it could be, I'm planning to get new TL rims sometime soon anyways. Hopefully those wont be bent!

 

usual suspect is either wheel off balance for various reasons or lower jall joints

 

I don't think my wheel could be off balance, i got them balanced last week, when i put my tires on, and yesterday, free with my oil change.

 

It is the ball joint, for which the dealer usually replaces the axle, the tell tale sign is that it is only under load while accelerating.

 

Can i just replace the ball joints? I've had them separated before, They can't be that tough.

 

I think you can, you might be able to take the left ball joint and swap it with the right one. It usually wears in a way, that it would be fine to switch them around.

 

Could also be axles. I had the same problem after getting new tires the problem persisted. A month later my left axle went out on me. After getting it replaced it's been smooth sailing since...

 

How much did that run ya Future?

I'd probably just do it myself.

 

Just bought cheap axles from Napa I believe for something like $70/axle. Shop only charged $300 to replace both axles including labor. I didn't have to have the passenger side done but did anyway just to be on the safe side.
Thinking about getting some reinforced ones though if I decide to s/c my car.

 

Tie rod ends?

 

Ball joints are no fun and are a ton of work. They are only about $20 a pop and are worth it just to change them out with some greasable moog ones.

They need to be pressed out and in so unless you have the necessary machinery you will need a shop.

So take away the gearing because thats probably just because the car is shifting from the higher speeds so it's not the tranny if that's something you were worried about.

1.) What speed does it start at?
2.) Does it stop at any speed as you accelerate faster or does it get worse?
3.) The wheel doesn't shake at all when you gas to lets say 70mph and just coast?

 

1) It's more of an RPM it starts at, i think 3-4k.
2) It normally shakes a BIT less after 4k..normally around 60mph in 4th gear.
3) Correct, while I am coasting, or cruising at 55-85 (dont really go much faster than that) It is not existent.

 

Try what I suggested before looking at the more expensive things. Look at your brakes as well. You could have a pad sticking, or the rotor could be warped & rubbing the pads.

 

Can brakes affect the steering wheel even when they are not being applied?

 

No the brakes can't effect the car if they are not applied. But fuzzy is right, the caliper can be frozen and pushed out where it is causing the pad to be applied without you actually pressing on the pedal. This is pretty easy to notice when you take off the tire and examine the brakes.

Also, what I did when I use to have one slightly bent rim, and wanted to keep that one in the back as often as I could. I marked the inside of my rims with a slight paint mark to know which rim was off a little bit so when new tires are put on, I can make sure its in the rear.

As for finding a bent rim, or an out of round tire. You can't use a regular balancing machine to get exact, you need to use a hunter roadforce machine. They are awesome, tells you the high and low points of your rims, if your tire is round, etc..

Anyways, it sounds like you might have a bent rim because you had this problem before hand with the old tires but you say it was worse. So perhaps when they put the new tires on the bent rim got rotated to the back or when they balanced it they did a good job evening out the bent rim the best they could by balancing so your only feeling a slight wobble now.

 

It actually got alot worse yesterday. (I drove a 300 mile trip) and towards the end of the trip. Phew, 3rd-4th-5th gear sucks right now.

I'm gonna try to find out if i have any bends.

I'm also buying some new TL rims next week, so hopefully that will take care of it if i DO have bends.

 

Trust me, i had the same wobbling problems for like 3 months. I rotated rims, bought two new ones, had things rebalanced, changed my ball joints, tie rod ends. Eventually I just changed out all 4 rims and had it balanced on a hunter roadforce and I get no vibrations at all up to 140mph, smoooothh as butter.

You'll eventually find out what it is.

 

What do ball joints and tie end rods run?

I'd like to do the work myself, i just need to know what parts to get

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

Yes they can. I had it happen a few times on other cars. Normal driving the steering wheel shakes back & forth. Caused by new pads & not resurfacing the rotors. Or as I said warped rotors causing the pads to hit the rotor while driving normal in turn causing the steering wheel to shake.

 

You said brakes, not rotors...

When I think of brakes I think of the pads and not the rotors.

 

I wouldn't go with OEM tie rod ends or ball joints. Go to advance auto parts, they carry moog suspension parts. Or just look online for these, they are a lot stronger looking than the OEM products. I think they run about the same price, but I honestly can't really remember right now.

 

Pitts, i don't even know what the tie rods are? lol.

Are the ball joints the little rubber grommet type thing in the control arm? Part # 8, and 6 in the second link?

 

The ball joints don't look like they are sold separately in the pics you showed. Look at your second link, then look at #2 knuckle. The bottom part of that where part # 7 goes up on to is the lower ball joint. Here, I have some pictures from when I did this, it is not an easy job.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=joint+ball

Take a read about your lower ball joint here.

Also, in the second picture you can see the tie rod end hanging with the speed sensor hanging over it. Thats a tie rod end, and also after replacing a tie rod end you will need an alignment most of the time.

 

Looks like a pain in the ass.

lol.

I'm gonna start with seeing if I have any bends and go from there.

 

Ya, a big pain in the ass for the ball joints. Tie rod end is fairly easy but like the old saying, "If it aint broke, don't fix it"

If you want a nice idea for a suspension upgrade that helps lube up the joints. Go to the auto part store and buy a grease gun with a flexible hose and hypodermic needle and go to town greasing all the joints. My car felt more solid after that, but not saying that is going to fix the problem you initially posted.

 

I GOT THE SAME PROBLEM. Only at 50mph, and guess what its my upper ball joint smashed and partially my worn out clutch and messed up flywheel. Only happens on acceleration.

 

Man, i hope its not my clutch/flywheel.

I only have 85k on my car.

 

Check your engine mounts too.

 

Sorry man, that is a lot of work and very expensive. How do you smash your ball joint though?

 

from being too low im all the way down on tein ss. BUT good news upper balljoints arent as hard as they seem. just bang them off. when i do mines ill probably write a diy.

 

Does anyone think this could be a transmission problem?

I hope not.