Anybody here install their springs on their CLS? I'm doing it myself for a few reason. #1 I can't get myself to pay $200 for the install #2 I want to learn how to do it.

I can get my hands on a manual spring compressor, and air tools. Anybody with pics on the procedure? Advice? I'm taking the rest of the week off to do this. Thanks! Oh, pics would be great...

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Black 2001 Type S
*Eibach Pro-Kit (Waiting to be installed)
*Xephyr Cold Air Intake
*PIAA 19224, 19169
*Rockford 500a2 [FOR SALE]
*Pioneer 12" @ 400w (x2) [FOR SALE]
*77237-SOK-A02
---Still 2 rims not scratched---

 

This is for the Civic:
http://students.washington.edu/markpaco/springs.html

I hope it helps a bit.

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Black 2001 Acura CL-S W/Nav 20%,35% Tint, Polarg M6 lamps

Live To Drive!

 

I don't think that spring installation is a do-it-yourself kind of task.... you can really screw up your suspension plus injure yourself....




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--> RUVZ
2001 3.2CL Type S - Satin Silver - Polarg M6 roadlamps, 35% tint
Coming VERY soon: Eibach Springs, AEM CAI, Brembo Rotors

 

I agree. If you haven't done a lot of other car repair don't do it. It is dangerous if you are not experienced. Springs, Engines and Trannys should be left to professionals if you want the car to be driveable in a short amount of time. It would suck to get into the job only to realize it was too big a job for your experience level and have to figure out how to get it to a shop in a hurry.


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Jake
2001 Aegean Blue Type S/Navi - Coming soon
2000 S2000 #3369 - For sale soon

www.jakepratt.com

 

Somebody on this forum installed the shocks themselves? Was it tinman?? Foti try finding out who it was. I know the Helms manual would help you out a lot.

Spiro

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Black/Black 2001 CL-S
Random Technology Cat
RED AEM CAI
APEXi V-AFC
Polarg M6 Roadlamps

 

Fotis- hopefully Jens can post the details tonite. Basically, you have to remove the entire strut assemblies from the car, dissassemble them and reassemble them with the new springs in the right position. You also must align the car when you are done. Can be a bitch to do without a lift.

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Wayne Gruen
Service Manager
Park Ave Acura
*** The opinions expressed above are my own and I in no way speak for American Honda or Acura. ***

2002 TL-S Black on Black
Factory Body Kit, Factory Spoiler, Comptech Springs, Comptech Sways, Comptech Headers, Comptech Exhaust, Xephyr CAI
Tuning by Jens

 

I can post detailed directions later when I have more time. Or email me at cowcarcass@aol.com


It's really easy.

-Aaron

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2001 CL-P, new project undergoing complete reconstruction. As of now: Custom CAI fabricated by SRD, Polarg M6 bulbs, 4 ProHopper Chrome hydraulic pumps with whammy tanks, 4 ProHopper dumps, 4 Optima marine deep-cycle batteries, 4 switches. Much much more to come...

1997 Accord coupe EX-L. Chrome suspension, Chrome motor, every bolt-on imaginable. One pump, 8 dump hydraulics with accumulators. Leather, Billet grills, 18" Neeper Shadows...etc..etc http://www.artofnoize.com/Cars/aaron.htm

1990 Toyota standard cab. Bodydropped 3". 17" KMC Nemesis', extensive suspension work. 4 wheel airbags.

 

Here's another Civic install. It really wasn't too difficult, but it takes some time. It really helps to have a friend help you.

Good luck!

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~ Drew ~
2001 White CL Type S
If you're interested, check out my suspension install page for a 6th gen Civic, click here

 

I also did it myself. It was my first time doing springs and was a great learning experience/challenge. It really is pretty easy- just a lot of wrench twisting and if you've got access to air tools, it'll go much smoother for you. Probably the most frustrating part for me was removing the back seats and that's probably just because the lower cushions were on so tightly. I'd *highly* recommend the Helm manual for this as it walks you through step-by-step and gives you the proper torque specs. If you don't have a torque wrench, go to your local Pep Boys, Autozone, etc and get one through their tool loan program. Basically, you pay for the tool and then get your money back when you return it. Here are some pictures of when I did mine:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...a=12731896&f=0

I've got a lot more pics than I posted above so if there's a particular view you need, let me know and I'll e-mail it to you.

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'01 Blk/Blk CL-S, H&R OE Sport springs, K&N panel filter, Red Line 5W30

"Paradise is exactly like where you are right now... only much, much better."

 

here are some pictures that a member on this board posted before... don't know how much it will help though... but here you go

Pictures

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Acura 3.2CL Type-S w/ Navigation
Black/Ebony

H&R Sport Springs | Pirelli P7000 Supersport 235/40ZR17 on stock rims | Neuspeed Tower Strut Bar | Custom CAI | Cleared Headlights, PIAA 19169 | Tint all around | Mesh Grill | Dual 12'' Alpine Type-S Subs | Kenwood KAC-728S Amp | RÄZO real carbon pedals

 

haha tinman posted his pics right before me... oops

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Acura 3.2CL Type-S w/ Navigation
Black/Ebony

H&R Sport Springs | Pirelli P7000 Supersport 235/40ZR17 on stock rims | Neuspeed Tower Strut Bar | Custom CAI | Cleared Headlights, PIAA 19169 | Tint all around | Mesh Grill | Dual 12'' Alpine Type-S Subs | Kenwood KAC-728S Amp | RÄZO real carbon pedals

 

I thought that page looked familiar.

fbazakos: The two links above for the Civics are much more detailed and useful (especially N-Gin’s) compared to the couple pics I posted above. If you don’t have one, try to borrow a Helm manual since it will walk you through everything for this procedure.

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'01 Blk/Blk CL-S, H&R OE Sport springs, K&N panel filter, Red Line 5W30

"Paradise is exactly like where you are right now... only much, much better."

 

Lowering a car is relatively straight forward however since you do not have access to a lift it will be somewhat labor intensive.Due to to the long post required to walk you thru this it might be better if you e-mail me and I can give you better instructions this way.Please remember I only use my computer at nite so allow for that time delay.Jens


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1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on

 

Sell the Intake and sell your radio equip and get the install done. Me and my friend did the install at his shop with a Lift and it took a few hours. If you have a lift them go for it, but using a jack is pretty grueling.

-j

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2001 Acura CL Type-S
Black - Ebony Interior - Spoiler - 20% Tint - Cleared Headlights - Solaris 9005 Highbeams - Complete bulb replacement with Polargs
18 x 8.5 SSR GPO DeColte Evolutions on Nitto 555's - Comptech Headers


2000 Mercedes Benz E320
Black - Black Interior - Nav - (Chrome AMG Rims-Sold)

 

OK thanks guys, anything else would be much appreciated. I *will* do this by myself, well, at least I'm not bringing it in to a shop. I talked to my cousin, he's gonna help me do it when I get back in town next week. He's gonna grab the shop manual from the dealership and bring his air tools. now i just gotta find an air compressor that'll fit his tools ...

------------------
Black 2001 Type S
*Eibach Pro-Kit (Waiting to be installed)
*Xephyr Cold Air Intake
*PIAA 19224, 19169
*Rockford 500a2 [FOR SALE]
*Pioneer 12" @ 400w (x2) [FOR SALE]
*77237-SOK-A02
---Still 2 rims not scratched---

 

there are very detailed instructions on the www.acura-tl.com forum in the archived installations faq section...pictures and everything and points to which bolts to take out and stuff...

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2000 Acura 3.2TL, Satin Silver, OEM spoiler, H&R OE springs, Piaa 1700x fogs, K&N filter, 17"x7.5 ATP S5 wheels,215/50/17 Pirelli P7000, Inspire Fog Switch, Polarg M-12 blinkers.

 

-I would suggest starting on a friday by pulling out the back seat. Mine was a real pain to get out, but others say they come out easy. If you do a search on here someone scanned directons out of the Helms manual to remove it. You can get away with pulling only the back portion of the seat if you're feeling lazy.

-From there I would loosen the lugs, and put the car up on 4 jackstands and pull off the wheels

-(FRONT) Next you will need to remove the 5 nuts inside the engine bay on top of the strut (2 are on the strut brace). However, I would leave one nut on there loosely till you're done. (14mm I think)

-(FRONT) Remove the bolts securing the brake lines to the strut. (12mm I think)

-(FRONT) Remove the (14mm) bolt that runs through the back of the lower fork (wishbone).

-(FRONT) Remove the large bolt that goes through the lower fork and the spindle. I think it's a (17mm).

-(FRONT) Push down on the fork and break it away from the strut assembly. You can just let it hang there. Next undo that nut you left finger tight on the top of the strut tower and pull the whole strut assembly out. (I had to jack up the wheel a little so the upper control arm pivots up a little so it'll all come out easier).

-(REAR) Undo the 2 nuts behing the back seat on top of the strut tower. (14mm)

-(REAR) Remove the nut that holds the sway bar to the spindle assembly and swing it out of the way.

-(REAR) Undo the bolt that secures the bottom of the strut assembly to the spindle. It's a 17mm I think.

-(REAR) Pull the spring assembly out.

To compress the springs I would first put an allen wrench in the top of the shock and loosen the nut a couple turns just to break it loose. From there stick the spring compressor on the spring and start tightening. I usually lay the spring on the ground and put my foot on top of it and make sure to evenly tighten the spring compressor. Also make sure that the clamps are on opposite sides of the spring. I've had them slide together on me and it's a mess. Also keep your fingers clear. Once you've taken enough tension off the spring take the top nut off and remove the spring. The front springs are under a lot of pressure. The back ones aren't under too much, so you won't have to compress them much. There is a black plastic cover on the shock. If you take that off there is a yellow thing called the bump stop. You may want to trim that down a little depending on how much your springs drop the car. I'd cut it in half. It won't hurt anything.


If you have any further questions or if I left anything out email me. CowCarcass@aol.com


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2001 CL-P, new project undergoing complete reconstruction. As of now: Custom CAI fabricated by SRD, Polarg M6 bulbs, 4 ProHopper Chrome hydraulic pumps with whammy tanks, 4 ProHopper dumps, 4 Optima marine deep-cycle batteries, 4 switches. Much much more to come...

1997 Accord coupe EX-L. Chrome suspension, Chrome motor, every bolt-on imaginable. One pump, 8 dump hydraulics with accumulators. Leather, Billet grills, 18" Neeper Shadows...etc..etc http://www.artofnoize.com/Cars/aaron.htm

1990 Toyota standard cab. Bodydropped 3". 17" KMC Nemesis', extensive suspension work. 4 wheel airbags.

 

Just installed Koni Yellow adj.shocks,Eibach springs and sways. Relatively easy job but an extra set of hands on the rear shocks can really expedite the install. Left backseat out as I tried various settings to determine but over all handling. I now realize world class handling that wasn't there with the stock suspension. Good luck with your install.