Okay, I need help, and I am sure I'll get plenty of gab, but I what I need is some constructive troubleshooting and ideas.

What could possibly be wrong or need to be fixed with my CL that is causing it to put down 211 fwhp?

It absolutly blew me away and all I can hope is that there is something seriously wrong. Obviously, this isn't with the recent install 100 shot. But it put down 211, with HEADERS & SC?!?!?

I can sit here and cry all day, but what I am more interested in is determining the cause for the approximately 50 lost hp at the front wheels.

Ideas and thoughts please. Thanks.

 

have you had it tested before and it was higher? the true horsepower is a lot less than the 260 acura says in its brochures.

 

Can you scan the dyno plot and post or email it??

There are many issues which could result in this. One simple thing that comes to mind is that the ESM is set too high. The ECU pulls timing seriously if over ambient manifold pressure is detected and could be enough to amount to that power loss.

 

What kind of Dyno? and which gear did you Dyno in?

 

now was this an actual dyno or gtech?

 

How's your air/fuel ratio? Did you get the car dynoed pre-blower?

 

this dyno is w/ the blower?



let's see the dyno. Also, you sure all the spark plugs were in correctly and all the wires were in the right order, etc.

 

mpgn04: A stock auto should put down around 196fwhp. My car is a long way from stock. Headers and intake alone are good for a 225fwhp auto.

Robg: this is a all-wheel dyno, not a dynojet. It is from Australia and made by a company called "DynoDynamics". The tech said that their number tend to read lower than most dnyos.

CLS2001_97124: I did not run the dyno, my car is in another town at a performance tuning shop called Dynocomp. They ran the car and being an auto, I am sure it was run in D5.

Scalbert: I was really upset yesterday and carried that frustration with me all day. I am better today, knowing that there is no way possible for this setup to make those numbers. So I am taking relief in the fact that something has to be wrong and therefore it can be indentified and fixed to correct the loss. Unfortunately, the dyno is up in phx. The owner said he'd send a jpg of the dyno to me via email, I'll call today to ensure that he does and forward it to you. I also know that these people didn't understand what the acura's numbers should be, and thought nothing was wrong. So therefore they aren't very helpful in identifying the problem. He did say that the max boost was just at 3 psi, which is odd, considering I thought the max was just shy of 5 pounds? I will also get A/F curves from him, as I am in the camp that my best chance of finding the problem and correcting it, is going to come from people like yourself, tech-savvy and familiar with the CL's engine, on this board. But I should be expecting around 250 fwhp right? Also is there loss in torque to be expected on a dyno from the additional wieght of the system and dynamat (approx 300lbs) and the 19's? If so noticeable, what would you expect. Thanks a lot in advance as I am sure this is far from over.

 

I'm thinking you may have major detonation and the car is throwing back the timing a BUNCH! Did they hear any knocking?


Having run it in D5 may of also been a cause, that's a very long gear w/ a low ratio from what I understand.

 

First, The weight of car does not affect the dyno numbers.
Second, post the dyno graph and we will see.

I expect as CLS-5AT with headers and SC to lay down at least 270 WHP!!

 

The Dyno Dynamics dyno may measure a little lower than a DynoJet but that isn't really and issue here.

The boost seems about right, maybe a little on the low side but in line with what Comptech states. You'll need to take some measurements yourself to see what it is running throughout the various gears and RPM levels. But even if it were down 0.5 PSI you wouldn't realize this amount of power loss. Do you have access to a scan tool or even a vacuum/boost gauge for the car?? I would like to know what the vacuum is with all accessories off and completely warmed up. It should be in the 20 in/HG range.

The A/F ratios will be helpful but I suspect they will be fine.

I am still leaning towards the ESM being off. I turned mine up just to see what the difference was one time and it was like the car fell on its face. A simple digital multi-meter is all that is needed to test this.

No reason to worry and get upset about it. The nice part is that there is a reason for this low output; we just need to determine what it is and fix it. The more data available the quicker it will be to diagnose.

BTW, vehicle weight will make no difference in the dyno as the car is stationary. Larger and heavier wheels can and will make a difference. But I'd expect only about 2% or so.

 

There's def. something wrong, leak or something...

 

Let us know once resolved.

 

In D5??? Don't most people who have dynoed their Autos in SS mode in 3 gear??

I could be wrong, but I sware that is what I've read in the past.

 

Corrcet, that is where the automatic should be dyno'd.

 

wow, 211 is real low, i dont know what to tell ya, does your car fel fast?

 

Okay I have an update. I have been talking to Shad at comptech and he agrees that it has something to do with the ESM. Either a) the setting is off or B) that a the wires can come loose because there was nothing availible to properly crimp them because of how small everything was. So they are going to start and play with the ESM and MAP levels. Also the car was running rich and they were able to free up 15fwhp by adjusting the regulator.

Scalbert: Shad said to use an obd II to scan the MAP values, he said that it shouldn't either be "something" 29.9 in/hg . I can't remember wif it was "above" or "below", I am assuming the larger value would mean more vacuum?? and therefore I would want it above?? but you mentioned 20's.. could you please help and how exactly is the esm adjusted? Thanks

Nashua_Night_Hawk: I am not expecting a 5AT with charger and headers to produce 270, what makes you think this is possible? Comptech's graph shows 265 as they top gain with b-pipe, and while I enjoy the quality of comptech's workmanship, I am in the camp that their dyno's tend to be generous. But if numbers like this are possible then the car should feel completely different than it does now

I was mistaken about the car being dynoed in D5, I wasn't there for the Dnyo and having never gotten one done before was just guessing. The shot is also enriching the mixture so we decided to go with smaller jets and ran around a 75 shot instead of the 100 shot nozzles. I will keep all updated as progression is made, thanks for all the help. The aren't many (any other) resources for tuning our engine, I appreciate the wealth of knowledge and creative thinking.

 

That's what I want to know too.

 

Your sig lists Tru pulleys,....you don't have an underdrive crankshaft pulley do you?

 

The MAP reading is in PSIA (absolute pressure). So you don't want a reading above 29.9 inHG with the ESM in place and under boost.

Turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise will decrease the maximum output value.

 

Thanks Scalbert, you 've been a lot of help.

ModAddict: The only remaining TRU pulley is the one for the power steering. No crankshaft pulley, even before because I was running AEM and not the UR pullies. Thanks for taking the time to help me identify the problem.

Darrinb & CL P Diddy: Yes the car feels fast, it doesn't sound as fast as before with a CAI, but the SC definitely pulls unlike any of the other tls or cls that I have had the pleasure to drive. The increase speed and acceleration are definitely noticable in tight twisties at lower speeds (under 50mph) and the car accelerates from 70mph to 110mph in a ungodly fast time. The SC make the 70 to 110 WOT feel like a 30 to 60 pull.