damn i wanted to put them today but its so freaking cold outside... and wind

 

Pussy

 

lol

 

just ordered them. along with a few things from p2r

 

It's -4º here right now. Try using your fingers without gloves even for 10 minutes here in that weather.

 

Ok.

It was -9 at the Grand Canyon last week, and I was outside cleaning the snow off the car. No gloves. No boots. Just a lightweight sweatshirt with no hood.

 

so thats were you have been hidin out at

 

 

Lol, actually Vegas. Went to the Grand Canyon for three days though because Ive never been. It was crazy that it snowed like hell there and 3 hours south it was in the 70s.

 

ok so it was 10 minutes to put them in... not a big deal... i was expecting more but i have to say that i can feel the difference. i do recommend this mod

 

i ordered them yesterday. then started browsing their site and bought more stuff for my cl o well

 

^^Ahhhh, the joys of modding...

 

just ordered these and the ngk torque damper cant wait

 

Did you get both dampers? I noticed a HUGE difference when I installed them.

 

i just got the front one should i get the rear one too?

 

Absolutely. When the motor torques it pulls up on the front and pushes down on the rear.

 

got mine. will install them when i do teh clutch

 

installed my bushings today what a pain shifter does feel better now though

 

Im being lazy have the torque dampers, bushings and clutch line but need to install still.

 

:coachpotato:

 

I have those NRG Dampers, but not sure how to install them. I was told I need to fabricate brackets. Do the ones you got need custom brackets or are they ready to bolt in. Please describe the feeling of the dampers.

 

No brackets needed. Just nuts and bolts.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/6-speed-engine-torque-damper-installed-484603/

 

Love my front nrg damper. No I need the rear one

 

Oh, and I noticed a huge improvement when I installed them. Wheel hop dropped quite a bit.

 

hehe kinda like ur avatar

 

another comment this guys posts that makes no sense.

what a sensitive little baby

 

ummm.... maybe you should look at my avatar <<<, then you might get it

 

Big warning. You have to remove the yellow clips (change wire plate clips that hold the cables to the change wire stay) that hold the shifter wire before removing the shifter cable from the transmission or you will take a big risk of breaking the shifter cable.

That being said, I took mine out. They do very little and the damage you risk isn't worth it at all. Replacing the OEM bushings with the all aluminum bushings means several things. First, you're transferring more vibrations to the bushings on the shifter housing which means they will wear faster and need to be replaced. Secondly, the new aluminum bushings can wear on the transmission where they attach. Anyone that's had them on for a while can pull them off and should be able to see the wear. Wear enough over time and it could snap off. That means pulling the transmission apart to replace them. Not cheap (my shop saw it happen once in the past year). The OEM rubber bushings should be fine. They're a hard rubber (if they're soft, replace them with new OEM ones) and shouldn't give that much when shifting. If you're using this as a weekend racer the aluminum ones may be worth the risk but it's not something worth risking on a DD or vehicle you plan to keep for a long time.

I'm gonna throw my aluminum ones in the black market.

 

aluminuim is softer then steal , so actually the bushings should wear before the shifter pins do, but yes you will porably see some wear on those pins though over time, but making sure to really grease them when they get installed will really help to slow that wear down

also there are easier and cheaper ways to fix broken pins, then pulling apart the tranny itself, especially if you got a welder, drill out where the pin goes, make up another bracket so you can put the new bolt in doable shear (nylock nuts preferred, locktight, or safty wire to keep from looseing over time), put all back together with the bolt (tack welding the bolt on would work too, but kinda be a pain in the future to remove though), then weld that new bracket to the arm. VIOLA fixed and much stronger at that (even though the stock design was strong enough already), with a replaceable "pin" also

and i had also already mentioned the potential increase in NVH issues above btw

 

I beg to differ, they DO feel a lot better and less like you're shifting a wet noodle than a solid shifter. Have you driven with it? maybe if your OEM bushings wore out more you would feel a little more of a difference. And a checkup every 20k miles or so should eliminate any possible malfunctions.

 

Agreed. I've had these things in for at least 40K+ miles and have had zero problems and solid performance.

 

TheWeez
WTF are you talking about? What yellow clips?

 

The change wire plate clips that hold the cables to the change wire stay have yellow markings on them or are painted yellow.

 

Thats just the rust forming from the clips.

Ive had mine in for over 50k miles with absolutely zero issues.

 

What's a "change wire"?
Your talking about the cables on top of the trans where the bushings go? Your talking about the clips you pry out to replace the bushings?
I'm not following.

 

Honda calls it the change wire, the rest of the world calls it shifter cables.

IIRC hes talking about the spacers that go above and below the bushing on the stock setup. Its been a long time since I did mine, but IIRC that spacer will no longer fit. They probably looked yellow because there may have been a bit of rust forming.

 

I'm not referring to the white plastic washer (number 11 and 13 in the diagram) that goes between the top washer and the bushing in the stock setup.

I'm referring to the small clips labeled 9 in the diagram that hold the wires to the block labeled 1.

 

I see.

I didnt have to remove mine. There was enough slack when I put the shifter in 2nd that I could safely slip the cable over the shift levers.

 

I'm not saying that it can't be done. Just that there's a good risk that you could break the cable where it attaches to the block which would mean you'd have to replace the entire thing (labeled 1 in the diagram).

 

Makes sense, better to be safe then sorry. The shift cables arent that cheap, and theyre a pain to replace.