msong1

shaking during acceleration ? why ?

i just my car from carmax
it was shaking a little when i bought it

i took it to the acura dealership and they said it was my inner cv joints
that need to be replaced $1200

i took it to car max and they said nothing is wrong whcich is bull crap since it shakes like a leaf so i told them to keep it and test drive it again

anybody else have this problem

2001 black 3.2 cl type S

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

My girlfriend Michele has this problem too. Usually around 40-50 MPH. It isn't her tires (they are new). She's yet to get it checked out but hopefully she'll get it to the dealership this week. It's annoying

us000011

It's the CV joints- had same problem on my Legend.

Lord Helmet

A guy I know said our cars (2nd Gens) have CV joint issues. I don't know whether or not I believe him.... He's kind of a ricer... Besides, since I've been a member here, this is the first thread I've seen come up on this. Not that I've been here very long or anything, this is just the first time I've heard of it on here.

rondog

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem, but only vibrated from rolling acceleraTION, like from 50mph +. So we changed the axles and all, even changed the tranny, turned out to be a bent control arm.

msong1

it only happens during acceleration how much is a control arm ?

between 30-50 mph and sometimes around 20mph

CALscuba

I was having a similar engine vibration on my CL-S when the engine was under load. Engine shakes when giving it gas gently to drive up a hill at freeway speed in traffic. (Not WOT on a stretch)...

The dealer told me he could see misfirings from the OBDII freeze data.

The Hitachi CM11-107 over-head coils seem to be getting gradually worse.
I started gaping down my plugs from 1.05mm to .80mm now. I get much more power, less vibrations and less engine noise.

I switched to IK20 Denso Iridium plugs (similar to TL'05) with the .4mm center electrode. These helped just a bit but the gap is what is most important not the irridium vs platinum.

I am still testing ... but I can say everything points to a weak spark from the overhead coils (45KMi only). I could not find a trace of "coil epidemic" on forums or TSB's. Besides the same Hitachi part No is still in use in TL'05 and Accord'03 for all I know...

Perhaps my engine got a bad batch of coils back in 2001? Any body dealt with weak sparks on these coil-over-head Honda motors?

Chopsie

mantis23 just replaced his CV joints, but he's lowered pretty good bit on coilovers, camber kit and running lowenhart 19's.

mc_yanzo

I had a bad coil pack in my 5th master cylinder at 52,000 miles.

msong1

i called car max and they said it was front axle shaft left and right
what the fudge is that and how does that break
i bought my car used from car max does that mean it was in an accident
it has 42k miles on it 2001 cls

msong1

i called car max they told me they neeed to replace the front axles left and right

what is that ?? and how does that break ?? has my car been in an accident
i got it with 42k miles 2001 cls


thats why my car was shaking during acceleration

what the heck are front axles ?? being busted and how does that happen ??

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Are they going to replace it under warranty? Technically you are still covered under the Acura warranty, or should be unless you car was purchased more than 5 years ago.

typeR

i had half shafts replaced under warranty...but it also could be motor mounts

msong1

car max is fixing everthing for free since my car is less than 30 days old

luckly i got in the shop on the 29th day so its free

but anybody know why this happens
whats up with that replace axles that sounds bad

how does that break ? has my baby been in an accident bought for $18.900 2001 black 3.2 cl S 42k miles



seemed like a good deal

how does that break ??

phipark

My car has been shaking mainly accelerating in 2nd and 3rd gear. I thought it was the tranny going. I guess I'll get into the dealer.

typeR

they replace the "axels" half shafts because it's easier than the labour involved in replacing the acctuall bad CV joint...not nessecarily and indication of an accident and more than likely if it is the CV its just from hard acceleration...car max should provide you with a free car fax report which would show any accident that would have an insurance claim associated with it

MotionEffects

Im having the same problem. Its the CV joint that are bad and usually its cheaper to replace the whole axle instead of rebuilding the CV joints. Couple of members are having this problem, Its seems like more and more people are having these cases now.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Why the new thread?

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172887

01bluecls

I just had my axels replaced up front with my car having about 51k on the odo. I guess its another big issue with our cars coming into play if more and more people are having them done.

01bluecls

I just posted in the other thread not knowing you had this one. For one i just went through this with my car. i had vibrations when accelerating and only then, not cruising or rolling. I thought it could be a lot of things. I took my car to Acura and the lead tech drove my car and knew automatically it was the axel. They replaced the drivers side front first, and that didnt fix the problem, so then they replaced the passenger side. THey told me its really hard to determine which side the axle is going bad, so they have to trial and error. My extended warranty picked up the $900 plus bill.

Another thing, I work for Carmax (Dulles VA) and we dont sell cars that have had structure damage or frame damage. So no your car was not in a major accident.

civicking

well i think i got the same problem, its not duing acceleration for me but its shaking while cruising between 40-50mph, and i can feel it in the floor and gas pedal, is that how everyone else is feeling it?

GreenMonster

Threads Merged...

mantis23

I had the same problem.

They replaced my CV joints for 1K and it was fixed.

msong1

i got my car back from car max

acura is charging 1200 for somehting that car max fixed on the repair order for $380

at least car max fixed it for free but the parts are like 210 for bith sides

and the rest is labor wtf just let you all you 1k for a axel change is a gotta be wrong

kronusthebonus

I don't understand how they're going to charge you a thousand dollars to fix this. Half shafts aren't that expensive and sure don't take that long to install...

civicking

welli called my local acura dealer and they told me that they cost like $800 and somthing each, i was like WTF. i can get rebuilt ones form a local parts place for like $80 each and a $60 core charge.

msong1

i know wtf the dealer is a rip off f..in nutz

i went online and looked for parts online for our car
no where near 1k

each side is like 85 bucks wtf dealers blow

but my baby runs nice and smooth the way it should

so mad to drive a pimp wip that shakes

civicking

hey guys i just talked to one of the guys at www.raxles.com they are a really big axles company in florida and even a ton of dealers are buying the cl axles from them, he did not know about the problem that these cars are starting to have so he said he will start looking into and maybe they will come up with a new style of axle that will get rid of this problem, i also told hime about the forum so if someone comes around here asking question you know who it is and why.

DURAN007

My Cl-p is shaking between 35-55 during acelleration! It doesn't do that when i let off on the gas! WTF!!!! How can you tell if it is the axel versus the ball bearings?

phipark

Somebody please tell me it's not the ball bearings. If so, I'm fucked because of the UR pulleys.

civicking

what ball bearing are you talking about, i would say shaking during acceleration can be axles or the motor mount.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

I had this exact same problem 3 weeks ago. I've got 116K on my car.

I thought it was an alignment, they said it was inner cv joints. I was due for an alignment anyways so I had that done first to be sure. The shaking was still there afterwards so they fixed the inner cv joints. THe problem went away after that.

if the problem is there ALL the time it's probably alignment. If the problem seems worse ONLY during acceleration and tends to go away during normal cruise, it's probably the inner cv joints.

DURAN007

I just replaced the whole left axel cuz the grease on the boot came out. After that the sound was still there? What gives? WTF could it be?

civicking

try replacing the other axle, its hard to tell what axle is making the noise, usually its just a guess.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

us000011

GT Imports (Honda specialist) in NC rebuilds these for about $100 each. This fixed my legend 2 years ago at 110K miles.

Several people have had real problems with aftermarket axles.

WalterS

I just started having the same issue. Only when accelerating. The car shakes like crazy. It sound like those of us who have extended warranty are covered, can anyone back me up on this. My only concern is that because the car is lowered the dealership might try to screw me out of fixing it. I can’t afford a $1,200 repair bill right now. I am going to schedule an appointment at dealership next week. I guess I'll soon find out.

civicking

you can get some from www.raxles.com they rebuild them, they use brand new joints on the axles , also right now they are trying to figure out why they are failing so fast, locally all the dealers buy form them, they sell them for 147 each.

civicking

here is a trouble shooting guide form them:

Vibration that increases with speed or kicks in at different speeds
Excessive play in the inner or outer joints or a bent driveshaft
Replace worn shaft assembly

Clunking noise when engaging automatic transmission.
Worn inner or outer joints.
Replace worn shaft assembly.

Continuous knock at low speed
Indicates a worn CV joint
Replace worn assembly.

Continuous humming or growling noise.
Inadequate lubrication on inner or outer joints (check boots for leaks). May also be worn gears or wheel bearings.
Inspect CV joint - replace necessary.

Clunking noise during acceleration or deceleration.
Worn inboard joint or differential problem in the transaxle.
replace worn shaft assembly or repair transaxle as necessary.

Clicking or popping noise.
Worn outer joint.
Replace worn shaft assembly.

Shudder while acceleration or deceleration.
Worn inner CV joint.
Replace worn shaft assembly.

Cyclic vibration.
Worn inner tripod CV joint.
Replace worn shaft assembly.

DURAN007

WTF Should I do now guys. Should i change the other axel??? It cost me 298 just for the drivers sided to be repalced! If its the drive shaft as indicated in the above post how much is it to replace? I have a scheduled appointment Monday with PARK AVE Acura! Again it only makes the sound like I have a flat going 35-55mph. How can you tell if the motor mounts are bad?