Seattle Cl-S

Does anyone have any experience with the "all-in-one" subwoofers? I'm referring specifically to the Infinity Basslink 10" and the Bazooka bass tubes. The main reason for considering these is the minimal space they take up in our trunks. I don't need earth-shattering bass but I also don't want to spend $400 on something that is barely noticable. I also do want something that is relatively easy to install/uninstall. Advice?

Nicky Pass

Those set ups are usually not that good. Get a small box sub(JL Audio, Kicker Solo-Baric,ect.....) Make a small box and mount the amp to it.....you'll be much happier!!!!!

rabs99

if you did get a bazooka, or another all in one, you would probably want to upgrade later anyway. those are better for trucks and shit, not for your car. you can get a box, hook the amp on to the box, that pretty minimal space wise

AztecRol

iTrader: (2)

Take a look at the specs!!!! These so called woofers only go down to 40-Hrz!!!! (Bazooka) Now, most 6.5 inch speakers go that low!!!!!! A woofer should go down to 20-Hrz. That would be a really good woofer. The closer you get to 20 the better. I would go with a nice sub in a box with a small seperate amp. One with a crossover. Make sure the sub is 4 ohm. You will get better power out of your amp. The difference in sound will be WELL worth the difference in price. If you do it right, the price difference won't be much!!

SiGGy

LMAO, you need like 30 feet of space for a 30hz tone to finish one cycle. Your only going to feel those frequencys anyway. Try running a RTA on a CD sometimes, you'll notice there isn't much information down at 20-70hz anyway... Heh, unless your listening to rap. Your ears can only hear down to 200hz anyway... (for some people, some even higher...)

40hz is plenty low man.

also, a 6.5" speaker will not be able to produce a 20hz tone worth anything... it'll be unnoticable, especially when it's also trying to do midrange at the same time...

Car Audio rating have no standards, so if the manufacturer finds the speaker can produce a 20hz tone at 50db, they'll say it can. Or sometimes when they test those speakers, they put them in ported boxes... which is not how they will get used in a real life situation. Also you have to look a frequency sweep on the speaker. Just because it can produce 20hz or 20,000hz doesn't mean it's capable of producing those tones effciently. Most car speakers are +/- 10db easy...


b.t.w. 50db would be like a loud computer fan running. Heh, or the box of fans im listening to now anyway...


a 20hz tone needs approximately 56ft of space to finish one cycle.
30hz 37ft
40hz 28ft

(these are approximate numbers)

Yes, so that means that wave has to bounce around in your car that much for you to even notice it...

jimcol711

bazooka...ehhh, crap....but ive heard alot of good things about the infinity basslink, quite a few members here have it and all give it good reviews...

AztecRol

iTrader: (2)

DOOD, are smoking crack?? I have been installing Home Theater for 12 years now. I know what I am talking about!! First, I HOPE you made a type-o, because the human ear can hear all the way down to 20Hrz, NOT 200!!!!!! In some cases, even down to 18!!!! After that, is when you only FEEL the bass. I have used an RTA, Real Time Analyzer for those who don't know, to tune MANY a home theater. I use the goldline which is pc based. Maybe the music YOU listen too doesn't go down to 20, but most of mine does!!!!! In home theater, there is a TON of info under 40Hrz!!!! In the music I listen too, NOT RAP, there is ALL kinds of info under 40!!!! I have taken CD's from my house and put them in my CL, and there is SOOOO much missing!!! Adding a sub is GOOD IDEA!!!!

It is true that bass waves take forever to finish one cycle, but if you open the sunroof or roll down the window, the wave will have room, and music will sound better in the bass range!!!

When was the last time you went to a car audio show???? Cars are putting out 140+ dB!!!!!!! This is in the under 40Hrz range!!!!! I can FART louder than 50 dB!!!!!!

Efficiency of speakers is VERY important. And yes +/- 10 dB is crap!! You can get a good speaker that goes down to 20 Hrz and doesn't start rolling off till 30. And why cant you put them in a ported box???? Most of the subs i have seen in cars are in ported boxes!!!!!!

Now, I don't want to get into a flame war, or a back and forth with ya, but I DO KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT!!!!

I say we get Ron from Street Effects in here!!! Maybe he can teach both of us something!!!!!!!

cmark

I say get a JL sub in one of there pre-fabricated box with a separate amp mounted onto the side. That's all you need for undoer $400.

JasonT

Well, I have the BassLinnk, & so do some others. All I can say is it's $220 on ebay, has a built in amp, it's very small, & sounds great. Yes it will not pund out bass so you can be heard for blocks, but it matched the factory system. I have played some very heavy bass music, & the thing sounds great. If your concerns are space, & budget, like mine, it's a great choice. The Bazooka though isn't a great sub. It's very muddy, & doesn't work well in sealed trunks. That is happier in a hatch. The basslink is easy to install, & uninstall. Here are some pics of mine...

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...1891AzSlqXOBIT
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...1927mvUUDUtVTA
Here's where I mounted the level controll
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...37660907KnZdKU

Nicky Pass

I've heard a basslink.......it wasn't impressive at all:ghey:

SiGGy

nope, no type-o's

human ear CANNOT hear below 200hz on avg. (100hz I'd say personally) you can only feel frequencys in that range. I've spent time in the recording studio industry designing speakers. Spent hours with frequency generators, and PINK/white noise generators. You can't hear below 200 (approximate hz). Feel yes, hear no... Granted you can kinda hear your ear drums getting smashed back and forth, but it's very low in audible terms.

http://www.audigo.com (place I did most research/work, lol I just got off the phone with him this morning)

I can probably convince some of my friends who record your A/V stuff to post some words on this from Chicago Recording Center. Which is one of the top 2-3 studios in the US.

I have spent many hours of time with a TEF analyzer in sound proofed rooms.

RE: you said a 6.5" speaker will produce a 20hz tone. While that is true, it will not be at any volume level. And no, most people do not put ported boxes in their doors to accomidate their 6.5" speakers.

re: finishing one cycle, you cannot HEAR the sound wave, if you do not have 36ft of room for it to resonate. You will only feel it.

On the other hand, most people cannot hear above 18k either on avg. This also applys to low frequencys, granted the accliamed human hearing range is 20-20k. It's what the ear should be capable of, not what people actually can hear.

Just like speakers have a +/- so do your ears. anything below 200hz is almost undetectable in a audible test. You'll find 3000hz is the peak frequency of human hearing. anything above 15k drop off rather rapidly too...

I will however agree there is a lot of low frequency information in DVD's for rumbling... Not much in music though... (techno/rap excluded) Most recording artists filter that stuff out, to make the mids clearer. Because they are audible.

ONLY reason it sounds better when you open the windows, is because you are letting the sound out of the car. And the bass reflecting around (150hz and down in a avg. car ) is not canceling the other sound waves out.

and yes, adding a sub is a good idea. But 40hz is plenty low for a car.

but no, there is not a TON of information below 40hz...
Most information in music is 500hz-14k any spetrum analyzer will show you this, especilly one that logs. However on a DVD, ya I'll have to agree, they have a ton of low frequency information.

Also, 140DB is great and all, 40z from the car, mabye with a tuned/ported box... no. 140DB os pressure level yes... You need the space to resonate the frequency. Granted the sound pressure will be there. Hence SPL, and DB's...

And most good car stereo systems, do not use ported boxes. They have too much of a peak in them. Also a very hollow, and too boomy of a sound.

Most good systems use a sealed box.


I think the bottom line is whats the definition of hearing? is it feeling/sensing the tone? Distingishing between tones? Sensation of eardrumb vibrating?

I mean, you really can't audibly hear a 20hz tone, but you can sense it...

So what is hearing?

http://www.sciencenet.org.uk/databas...s/b00530c.html

I did a quick google search...


EDIT:

Also, an RTA on a PeeCee is pretty far off from the accuracy and capabilitys of a TEF analyzer. Unless you have an external device with some sorta serial link to the PeeCee. That would be different.

chit, just the microphone on the RTA is an easy $3000k. On the URL I posted you can see Paul analyzing some studio speakers with the TEF. And he has many graphs posted up from the TEF. Those speakers (that webpage) which I have at my house are +/- 2db 20-20k in the last version.

Ron from street effects I'm sure knows a ton. But I have had the experice in design and pratcal lab testing to know what I'm talking about and have experienced. Plus knowledge from people who have been recording music/designing amp/speakers for many years. (20+)

Don't bring my crack problem into this! LOL

JRock

Mount two 15" Kicker subs into some sort of box up at the back end of the trunk by the seats with amps good for 1000watts each and play Pitchshifter - Innit.

Seattle Cl-S

...for those of you still on the initial topic, thanks for your help.

SiGGy

Sorry, just wanted to make sure you didnt overlook the product because of someone else views on it. 40hz is plenty low.

Personally I'd agree with Nicky Pass. Get a lil box and a nice amp.

I've heard those tubes in a hatchback, which they sound good, and in a Jeep Grand Cherokee. Seems if you don't have an open trunk vehicle they aren't very effective. As my friends pontiac grand am had one, it wasn't nearly as notciable as it was in the jeep or hatchback.

Might be ok, if you leave the trunk access door open. As my buddys grand-am doesnt have that option.

I bet it sounds fine for most people. Since I like a lil more bass, and a tight punch I say go with the box still. But depends on your listening preferences.

Seattle Cl-S

I'll probably go with the box/amp combination. I just liked the idea of a drop-it-in-and-go solution.

When you guys say "small box" what sizes are you talking about. Is an 8" sub enough? I definitely don't want larger than 10.

SiGGy

I would put 1 10" driver in. Personally I use JL Audios drivers. I haven't had a problem with one of them yet. Love the sound too.

Here's some 8 & 10" drivers and some small boxes.

1st is 8" driver, other 2 are 10" drivers.

http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/cs108t.html
http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/cs110t.html
http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/cs110.html

The last one would probably be my choice of the 3. All of those take up a little amount of trunk space.

This might be something to look at also.

http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/microsub.html

Of course readup on drivers/manufacturers... I have never listened to just one 8" in car before. I had a mustang awhile back where I had 2 8" subs. It sounded great.

AztecRol

iTrader: (2)

FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Something we can agree on!!!!!!

Sorry for hi-jacking the thread seattle, the above subs and enclosures are AWESOME, and not that expensive!!! You will VERY happy with any of them!!