rotora brakes pedal feeling...

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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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rotora brakes pedal feeling...

I just installed rotora bbk and have bled the whole car two times and the front 3 additional time and have went through 2 bottle of motul fluids and half of bottle of prestone (motul was getting expensive). And...the pedal feeling suck!! I mean the brakes stop but the grab point is low. I would figure it will grab at stock point or if not higher. I though with bbk you barely tap the brake pedal and the car stops. Or am i expecting too much? I am 100% sure the system is free of air and I was getting constant fluid flow with my power bleeder. There is no leak in the system and I made sure both stainless steel hoses where clear.
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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Still sounds like air in the lines to me, but I'm not an expect on any level. NiteQwill can give a better idea as he installed his BBK.
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 08:43 PM
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Trust me I installed many brake kit and clutch master b4. This thing is BLED. If it takes anymore bleeding I feel something is wrong with the caliper. Plus with the car off I get a rock hard pedal is 2 1/2 pump of the pedal constanly...if there was air the bump will vary and the pedal will still move. I'm lost...
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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also the car stops with that low point everytime constantly which is another clue air should not be in the system. If there was then there wouldn't be a constant grab point.
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Is the capacity of the new caliper larger than the stock one? If so, then it will take more pedal travel to move enough fluid. The solution to that is to install a larger bore master cylinder.
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 09:31 PM
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^^^^Iam aware of that however the design of the caliper is for stock master.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 02:00 AM
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mine felt the same way,i re-bled it again then it felt like stock...... sounds like you still have air in the system.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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You think I need to drive it for a feel hundred miles then bled it again to be able to completely get the air out?
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 01:09 PM
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From: san fernando valley,cali
Originally Posted by highspeedspecialist
You think I need to drive it for a feel hundred miles then bled it again to be able to completely get the air out?


i drove mine for a day (40-60) miles then rebled. i honestly thought i got ALL the air out. i was wrong. there is soooooo much tubing involved in our brake systems there are tons of places for it to hide.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 03:29 PM
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There are two bleed screws to each front caliper - one on the inner for two of the pistions and one on the outer for the other two calipers. Did you bleed all four points on the front? You'll have a total of 6 points to bleed - 4 on the front calipers and two on the rear. Per Helms, this is the sequence:
1st - Front Left
2nd - Front Right
3rd - Right Rear
4th - Left Rear.

This is different from the conventional "Furthest away from the Master Cylinder first" concept. I've done it both ways without a problem before I saw the Helms sequence.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by highspeedspecialist
Trust me I installed many brake kit and clutch master b4. This thing is BLED. If it takes anymore bleeding I feel something is wrong with the caliper. Plus with the car off I get a rock hard pedal is 2 1/2 pump of the pedal constanly...if there was air the bump will vary and the pedal will still move. I'm lost...
With the car off, the pedal will firm up as you're not using the power assist. You've got air somewhere in the system.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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I bled all 6 bleeder screw. starting rr lr fr and fl. Bleeding the front brakes with the outboard screw first then inboard. I tap the caliper to free up any air. I know with the car off I'm not using the power assist. My point is with the car off I get a hard pedal with a constant 2 1/2 push meaning if there was air the pump will vary until i get a hard pedal. Also I think there is air however with the time frame I think the air need to surface. I let the car sat over night so hopefully some of the air rised. I am going to driver it this week and put some miles and then rebleed it again and hope for the best.
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 12:26 AM
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Ok I just rebled the whole car again starting with the procedure above with my mitty vac. Well...it didn't do jack. So when my bro came home I finally had him help me pump the brakes and do it the old fashion way and guess what? It worked!!! Now I can finally say with confident these brakes really works!!! I guess I learn something too...sometimes the damn mity vac sucks. Oh also I had no other choice then to do it the old fashinon way since I was using the mityvac so much that the handle broke...maybe that was a sign...anyways I'm glad I got that out the way!
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 02:14 AM
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You must bleed the inner screw then the outer screw. YMMV

Glad to see it worked.

Also don't ever use a mighty vac, vacubrake, whatever... if anything, use Speedbleeders, I use them on my bike and other car and there is nothing better out there.
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 09:06 PM
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I have good luck with mityvac in the past but this one just blew me off!!! I wish I had a pressure bleeder like at work. Oh btw I though instruction said outer then inner? Or am I wrong? But either way it worked!
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by highspeedspecialist
I have good luck with mityvac in the past but this one just blew me off!!! I wish I had a pressure bleeder like at work. Oh btw I though instruction said outer then inner? Or am I wrong? But either way it worked!

I haven't had a problem with my Mityvac. I normally teflon tape the bleeder screw or place heavy grease around the thread to create a seal for the vacuum.

Glad you've got it worked out. Just Bed in the brakes properly to get the most out of them.
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