Replace Timing Belt Yes/ No
Replace Timing Belt Yes/ No
2001 CL-S 60,000 miles
Do I replace the timing belt now or wait until 100,000. According to the manual, if I go by months it says to change. Some mechanics say yea, some say nay. I need some help.
joe
Do I replace the timing belt now or wait until 100,000. According to the manual, if I go by months it says to change. Some mechanics say yea, some say nay. I need some help.
joe
Your 2001 CLS has a timing belt that is probably 9 years old. If your car was manufactured as a 2001 model then it was most likely built in 2000 but could have been built in the first few months of 2001. The manual calls for changing the belt after 105K miles or 7 years, which ever comes first. You are clearly past the 7 year mark and are due for a belt change. The rubber that the t-belt is made of will degrade and rot over time, losing its elasticity and cracking. When it begins to crack it will fail and destroy your engine. When I took mine out with 100K miles on it after 5 years of use it was very stiff and I can imagine it would have began to show cracks soon. You can buy a Honda service manual for the CL and the $30 belt and change it yourself. If you own the tools it is not hard at all.
I think we can get the job done .. he's pretty familiar with all things cars whereas I know the basics
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Wow nice to see people supporting general maintenance for once. Usually people go on about how they were able to make it longer then the recommended window and didn't have any problems. Screw risking well over $4k in engine repairs to be a cheap ass and save a couple bucks.
how much is it to have a shop do it because I think if I was able to install headers and suspension and have a service manual I can do it but I was just curious how much it will run ya?
I don't agree. Better to underquote. Guess higher then is normal and he may get ripped off by paying someone $1000 for a job that most shops should be charging much less for. We tell him $600-$800 and chances are someone won't say OK to paying at least $200 more then they should for the parts and work.
Don't mean to sound antagonistic about this but my independent mechanic who never recc extra work (even though he could make extra $) told me to wait until at least 90K on my '01 CL which has 68K. He says he has never heard of the timing belt breaking on one of these TL's or CL's. Anyone ever heard of one breaking? (I do realize the cost goes way up if it does so it is a gamble).
Don't mean to sound antagonistic about this but my independent mechanic who never recc extra work (even though he could make extra $) told me to wait until at least 90K on my '01 CL which has 68K. He says he has never heard of the timing belt breaking on one of these TL's or CL's. Anyone ever heard of one breaking? (I do realize the cost goes way up if it does so it is a gamble).
Last edited by 2Fast4you; Apr 14, 2009 at 07:37 PM.
Don't mean to sound antagonistic about this but my independent mechanic who never recc extra work (even though he could make extra $) told me to wait until at least 90K on my '01 CL which has 68K. He says he has never heard of the timing belt breaking on one of these TL's or CL's. Anyone ever heard of one breaking? (I do realize the cost goes way up if it does so it is a gamble).
Don't mean to sound antagonistic about this but my independent mechanic who never recc extra work (even though he could make extra $) told me to wait until at least 90K on my '01 CL which has 68K. He says he has never heard of the timing belt breaking on one of these TL's or CL's. Anyone ever heard of one breaking? (I do realize the cost goes way up if it does so it is a gamble).
if u dont want to replace ur entire engine..then i suggest to do it at about 90k if you have an 01.... my previous 01 cl-s was at 115k.....all my valves were GONE..... needed to drop in a new engine... u might as well do it now or else u end up spending a couple grand. i just changed my timing belt at 100k for my current cl-s...also another 01.
My cars 7 and 1/2 now but only 60,000 km's on the clock. Lots of good advise here and I'll heed that time is worse than milage and I'm going to have the dealer do the belt.
What bugs me though is all the variables I see in the Normal vs Severe maintenance schedules. The owners manual says it's good for 7 years if I lived in Seattle but because I live two hours north in Vancouver, it's really only good for 4.
Talking to the service guy today, he hands me a TL&CL Factory Recommended Canadian Maintenance Schedule pamphlet and it says to change out the belt at 100,000 km's, (no calender limit) but only if I regularly drive in temperatures less than -29 C. (-20 F.) But because I live in a beautiful balmy city by the sea with palm trees, the belts good for 168,000 km's...no calender limit!
Scratching my head over that one.
What bugs me though is all the variables I see in the Normal vs Severe maintenance schedules. The owners manual says it's good for 7 years if I lived in Seattle but because I live two hours north in Vancouver, it's really only good for 4.
Talking to the service guy today, he hands me a TL&CL Factory Recommended Canadian Maintenance Schedule pamphlet and it says to change out the belt at 100,000 km's, (no calender limit) but only if I regularly drive in temperatures less than -29 C. (-20 F.) But because I live in a beautiful balmy city by the sea with palm trees, the belts good for 168,000 km's...no calender limit!
Scratching my head over that one.
If you go with the manual, it's good for 7 years.
If I went with the manual, it should have been done 3 and a 1/2 years ago but those Canadian "Severe Condition" rules blow so I'm doing it now...regardless of the brochure I was handed today.
If I went with the manual, it should have been done 3 and a 1/2 years ago but those Canadian "Severe Condition" rules blow so I'm doing it now...regardless of the brochure I was handed today.
T-Belt, water pump, at least inspect front and rear main seals, cam seals, and clean out the upper intake manifold egr runners and egr port. If they're going to do all that, I'd buy the p2r thermal intake manifold gasket, and TB gasket, and have them put that in as well.
i've got 96k and it's a 2001. i know i need to get this done but... if i do this myself, what if the timing is off by 1 tooth? will something huge happen and i have to tow car to mechanic to fix?
guess i will need a service manual...
guess i will need a service manual...
mark your top 3 or 5 teeth and then dot where the teeth are on the head. There is no margin for error if you want your car to run properly. High revving engines and timing are a big deal, unless you like bending valves.
factory service or helms. I would advise you to have a honda mechanic do this if you've not done it before. It's not incredibly difficult per se' - but plan on bloody knuckles and a sore back from bending over the car. Most private mechanics will do a tbelt / sbelt / water pump on the J motor cars for under $400 plus parts from what I've seen
The stealership will bill you for 5-8 hours labor. A good mechanic with the correct tools might be able to do this in 4 or 5 hours as a routine procedure. It's tight quarters in there, and there are bolts that are near impossible to get your eye on, nevertheless a wrench. If you're patient, it's not a bad job - but I'd plan on a sun-up to sun-down operation if you aren't familiar with the innerworkings and the procedure.
I did mine a few months back. It was my first time doing something of this magnitude. The hardest part was breaking the crank pulley bolt. Buy/borrow the crank holder and get some long 1/2" extensions to you can use a 3' pipe on a breaker bar to break it.
Next hardest thing was getting to the smaller bolts that hold the timing belt covers off/on (small working quarters). Some I had to lay across the engine and reach around with both hands.
At TDC the front cam is on a flat spot, but watch the rear cam that is harder to see because it easy slips and you will need to slowly line up the arrows. (real slowly cause is a small point to find).
I over tightened my power steering pump and had to replace that too, but other than that, the manual and pictures/DIY on this forum were great. Next time I do it, it should take half the time. Take your time and make sure all the bolt are torqued down.
Next hardest thing was getting to the smaller bolts that hold the timing belt covers off/on (small working quarters). Some I had to lay across the engine and reach around with both hands.
At TDC the front cam is on a flat spot, but watch the rear cam that is harder to see because it easy slips and you will need to slowly line up the arrows. (real slowly cause is a small point to find).
I over tightened my power steering pump and had to replace that too, but other than that, the manual and pictures/DIY on this forum were great. Next time I do it, it should take half the time. Take your time and make sure all the bolt are torqued down.







