Reason why you disconnect battery for ect!!!
Reason why you disconnect battery for ect!!!
Ohkay as most of you know a shop called vertex does most of the jobs for our md,va,dc members. And today I was hanging out w/ Jackson (head mechanic) and I asked him why people disconnect the battery to reset the ECU.
This is what he said.
First of all you DON'T need to disconnect your battery all you have to do is pull the fuse out for the ecu or just unplug the ecu unit alone not the entire battery.
Second the only reason alot of people resest there ecu at the track is because when you plug it back, it doesn't have any settings so it's 'learning' your car. Thus it has no rev limiter, no fuel mapping , so you can get better shifting and air/fuel mappings. But its only effect for a couple minutes not perm.
Third you only have to pull the fuse out for about 5 min to take effect.
Jackson worked at numerious dealers and been doing car performance mods for a long time and has a modded GS-R himself and knows what he's doing. It does kinda makes since just to unplug the ecu fuse instead of the entire battery. Just thought you all wanted to know.
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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers, Comptech Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.
AEM CAI once they decide to make the dame thing.
235/40/17's or 225/45/17's once I found out which one works for me.
gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.
This is what he said.
First of all you DON'T need to disconnect your battery all you have to do is pull the fuse out for the ecu or just unplug the ecu unit alone not the entire battery.
Second the only reason alot of people resest there ecu at the track is because when you plug it back, it doesn't have any settings so it's 'learning' your car. Thus it has no rev limiter, no fuel mapping , so you can get better shifting and air/fuel mappings. But its only effect for a couple minutes not perm.
Third you only have to pull the fuse out for about 5 min to take effect.
Jackson worked at numerious dealers and been doing car performance mods for a long time and has a modded GS-R himself and knows what he's doing. It does kinda makes since just to unplug the ecu fuse instead of the entire battery. Just thought you all wanted to know.
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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers, Comptech Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.
AEM CAI once they decide to make the dame thing.
235/40/17's or 225/45/17's once I found out which one works for me.
gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CLpower:
it makes more sense to unplug the ECU. but it's alot easier to unplug the battery. </font>
it makes more sense to unplug the ECU. but it's alot easier to unplug the battery. </font>

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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers, Comptech Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.
AEM CAI once they decide to make the dame thing.
235/40/17's or 225/45/17's once I found out which one works for me.
gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.
teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 44,094
Likes: 980
From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NOVAwhiteTypeS:
but alot more eaiser just to pull the fuse.

Originally posted by CLpower:
it makes more sense to unplug the ECU. but it's alot easier to unplug the battery. </font>
it makes more sense to unplug the ECU. but it's alot easier to unplug the battery. </font>

how you figure? you gotta pop open the case, then figure which one it is, then hope you don't blow it taking it in or out, then you gotta find the fuse puller, etc.
dq'ing the battery is simplier to me

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CLpower:
how you figure? you gotta pop open the case, then figure which one it is, then hope you don't blow it taking it in or out, then you gotta find the fuse puller, etc.
dq'ing the battery is simplier to me
</font>
how you figure? you gotta pop open the case, then figure which one it is, then hope you don't blow it taking it in or out, then you gotta find the fuse puller, etc.
dq'ing the battery is simplier to me

</font>
Just look at the fuse cover and it will either say ecu or ecm. and you can pull it w/ your fingers or a fusepuller.
How the heck will you blow something when your disconnecting it. Plus you don't have to redo your time on your navi, radio, keep all your presets, and don't need no navi code or radio code.
To disconnect battery you gotta figure out how to open the battery cover and then get tools to disconnect it and yo ass might get shocked.doing it
to me pulling the fuse works.
Your way of fixing is like just rebooting a machine instead of just fixing that one problem. Why disconnect everything when you know where the source is???
sorry im a comp guy.
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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers, Comptech Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.
AEM CAI once they decide to make the dame thing.
235/40/17's or 225/45/17's once I found out which one works for me.
gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NOVAwhiteTypeS:
so it's 'learning' your car. Thus it has no rev limiter, no fuel mapping , so you can get better shifting and air/fuel mappings. But its only effect for a couple minutes not perm.</font>
so it's 'learning' your car. Thus it has no rev limiter, no fuel mapping , so you can get better shifting and air/fuel mappings. But its only effect for a couple minutes not perm.</font>
When you reset the PCM you do reset several parameters. When it comes to fuel, both the long and short term fuel trims are zero'd. If things are off a bit then they will adapt to keep the a/f ratio at stoich.
I haven't seen all of the parameters for our PCM so I can't say if it has adaptive ignition timing, my guess is that it does. Which, if so, would be similar to the fuel trim adapting.
However, the rev limiter is still the same. This is a set parameter and is not volatile. If you had no fuel mapping the car wouldn't ever know what pulse width to use based on the observed speed density readings. But as mentioned, fuel trim values are zero'd.
From what I understand, shifting really won't be affected since all adaptation is mechanical and based on wear. Well, on second thought, I believe there might be a slight change in shift points if you normally drive lightly.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by scalbert:
Part of what was said is correct, but this quoted portion is off or was mis-understood.
When you reset the PCM you do reset several parameters. When it comes to fuel, both the long and short term fuel trims are zero'd. If things are off a bit then they will adapt to keep the a/f ratio at stoich.
I haven't seen all of the parameters for our PCM so I can't say if it has adaptive ignition timing, my guess is that it does. Which, if so, would be similar to the fuel trim adapting.
However, the rev limiter is still the same. This is a set parameter and is not volatile. If you had no fuel mapping the car wouldn't ever know what pulse width to use based on the observed speed density readings. But as mentioned, fuel trim values are zero'd.
From what I understand, shifting really won't be affected since all adaptation is mechanical and based on wear. Well, on second thought, I believe there might be a slight change in shift points if you normally drive lightly.</font>
Part of what was said is correct, but this quoted portion is off or was mis-understood.
When you reset the PCM you do reset several parameters. When it comes to fuel, both the long and short term fuel trims are zero'd. If things are off a bit then they will adapt to keep the a/f ratio at stoich.
I haven't seen all of the parameters for our PCM so I can't say if it has adaptive ignition timing, my guess is that it does. Which, if so, would be similar to the fuel trim adapting.
However, the rev limiter is still the same. This is a set parameter and is not volatile. If you had no fuel mapping the car wouldn't ever know what pulse width to use based on the observed speed density readings. But as mentioned, fuel trim values are zero'd.
From what I understand, shifting really won't be affected since all adaptation is mechanical and based on wear. Well, on second thought, I believe there might be a slight change in shift points if you normally drive lightly.</font>

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looked around under the hood, i can't find the fuse for the ecu. where is it? sorry, i guess i'm just tired and thinking of the grammy's or something. .
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'01 cl-s blk/blk :: comptech headers, comptech springs, comptech sway bars
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'01 cl-s blk/blk :: comptech headers, comptech springs, comptech sway bars
It is not under the hood, it is in the passenger side fuse box. Open the passenger door and look at the side panel, what would appear to be the side of the glove box. There is a panel that pulls off exposing the fuse panel. The one in question is #13.
You don't even need to pull the fuse for 5 mins. It is more like 15 secs the ecu, doesn't have a battery or anything built in , so it will lose its memory quick. Also after you reset the ecu, i have always been told that you start the car, and don't touch the gas pedal, wait for the car to warm up, then turn it off and your done.
heeheh. You guys are so fucking lazy!!! Arguing over which takes less effort/time to do, unplug a fuse or a battery cable. Maybe you should get a stop watch with a second hand and park your cars next to each other and have a race. The winner will be declared the laziest bastard on the forum. 
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Silver CL-S w/ Navi, Spoiler, Wheel Locks, Trunk Tray, 19169, 9005
Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1-S Proxes on Stock 17" CL-S wheels

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Silver CL-S w/ Navi, Spoiler, Wheel Locks, Trunk Tray, 19169, 9005
Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1-S Proxes on Stock 17" CL-S wheels
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by scalbert:
It is not under the hood, it is in the passenger side fuse box. Open the passenger door and look at the side panel, what would appear to be the side of the glove box. There is a panel that pulls off exposing the fuse panel. The one in question is #13.</font>
It is not under the hood, it is in the passenger side fuse box. Open the passenger door and look at the side panel, what would appear to be the side of the glove box. There is a panel that pulls off exposing the fuse panel. The one in question is #13.</font>

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'01 cl-s blk/blk :: comptech headers, comptech springs, comptech sway bars
teh Senior Instigator
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 44,094
Likes: 980
From: Huntington Beach, CA -> Ashburn, VA -> Raleigh, NC -> Walnut Creek, CA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Technique:
heeheh. You guys are so fucking lazy!!! Arguing over which takes less effort/time to do, unplug a fuse or a battery cable. Maybe you should get a stop watch with a second hand and park your cars next to each other and have a race. The winner will be declared the laziest bastard on the forum.
</font>
heeheh. You guys are so fucking lazy!!! Arguing over which takes less effort/time to do, unplug a fuse or a battery cable. Maybe you should get a stop watch with a second hand and park your cars next to each other and have a race. The winner will be declared the laziest bastard on the forum.

</font>
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