Raising the rev limiter?
#4
Originally Posted by Soccer_playa1579
Just out of curiosity.... why would you want to do such thing.. wont that harm the engine if you go into revs which are redlined for a reason?? *sarcasm aside* jus wondering =)..
Its a small tight engine the likes to rev, and I think it would be fine to take it up just a bit.
#6
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Originally Posted by CH46ESeaKnight
The car pulls hard all the way to redline and I'd like to up it by 300 to 400 rpm to help with shifting the automatic, in manual mode that is. Plus it would help with the 3rd to 4th shift, cause it drops so damn low going into 4th.
Its a small tight engine the likes to rev, and I think it would be fine to take it up just a bit.
Its a small tight engine the likes to rev, and I think it would be fine to take it up just a bit.
Here's a good article: http://www.lunaticfringe.org/vwfox/mod/rev-limiter.html
The issue you describe above has nothing to do with the rev limiter and everything to do with the gear ratios in the transmission, something you cannot change.
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#8
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Not changeable, though i would love to change the slow limiter to a faster limiter on the manual. You hit that thing in 3rd and it feels like you just threw out a parachute.
#9
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Might want to read up on what the rev limiter does.
Here's a good article: http://www.lunaticfringe.org/vwfox/mod/rev-limiter.html
The issue you describe above has nothing to do with the rev limiter and everything to do with the gear ratios in the transmission, something you cannot change.
Here's a good article: http://www.lunaticfringe.org/vwfox/mod/rev-limiter.html
The issue you describe above has nothing to do with the rev limiter and everything to do with the gear ratios in the transmission, something you cannot change.
I know what a rev limiter is there for, I'm not wanting to remove it. Just up it a few hundred. It's factory set and most likely a bit conservative. Like I said, it's a small light weight engine that likes to rev, a few hundred RPM is not going to kill it. I'm sure the valve train can handle it.
#10
I do agree. With mods that limiter kicks in when I know I can run a few hundred more rpm. Top of 3rd gear pulls & I bang off the limiter. But he car still wants to pull. I feel it.
#11
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
I do agree. With mods that limiter kicks in when I know I can run a few hundred more rpm. Top of 3rd gear pulls & I bang off the limiter. But he car still wants to pull. I feel it.
I don't think the Neo will do it. Probably the e-manage ultimate, not sure about the Blue.
#13
try v-tec controller
http://urbanimport.stores.yahoo.net/rstyvtco.html
this way when u go from 6500 to around 4000 and u tryin ur best to reach 4800 to hit vtec, u wont be embarrassed some ppl say its not worth it, i think it'll make ur CAI sound nice earlier heh
http://urbanimport.stores.yahoo.net/rstyvtco.html
this way when u go from 6500 to around 4000 and u tryin ur best to reach 4800 to hit vtec, u wont be embarrassed some ppl say its not worth it, i think it'll make ur CAI sound nice earlier heh
#14
Originally Posted by typeR
3-500 would be ideal for this car when fully modded a 7500 fuel cut instead of 7100 is well with in range of hondas conservitive approach
Originally Posted by black_type-s
try v-tec controller
http://urbanimport.stores.yahoo.net/rstyvtco.html
this way when u go from 6500 to around 4000 and u tryin ur best to reach 4800 to hit vtec, u wont be embarrassed some ppl say its not worth it, i think it'll make ur CAI sound nice earlier heh
http://urbanimport.stores.yahoo.net/rstyvtco.html
this way when u go from 6500 to around 4000 and u tryin ur best to reach 4800 to hit vtec, u wont be embarrassed some ppl say its not worth it, i think it'll make ur CAI sound nice earlier heh
#16
You could get rid it if you ran a full stand alone ECU.
And its weird my neo does not show me ever going over 6,800 rpm, even when i hit the limiter. Maybe rpm gauge is off because the tach hits 7,100 and never reads higher then 6,800 on the neo monitor mode. Also the same with the mph gauge I could of swore i seen the needle on 150 before and the top speed is supposed to be 147.
And its weird my neo does not show me ever going over 6,800 rpm, even when i hit the limiter. Maybe rpm gauge is off because the tach hits 7,100 and never reads higher then 6,800 on the neo monitor mode. Also the same with the mph gauge I could of swore i seen the needle on 150 before and the top speed is supposed to be 147.
#17
Originally Posted by davepaul033
You could get rid it if you ran a full stand alone ECU.
And its weird my neo does not show me ever going over 6,800 rpm, even when i hit the limiter. Maybe rpm gauge is off because the tach hits 7,100 and never reads higher then 6,800 on the neo monitor mode. Also the same with the mph gauge I could of swore i seen the needle on 150 before and the top speed is supposed to be 147.
And its weird my neo does not show me ever going over 6,800 rpm, even when i hit the limiter. Maybe rpm gauge is off because the tach hits 7,100 and never reads higher then 6,800 on the neo monitor mode. Also the same with the mph gauge I could of swore i seen the needle on 150 before and the top speed is supposed to be 147.
#18
well, im talkin bout shiftin from third to fourth how it actually DOES feel like u jus popped out a parachute genius, so since its so hard to get to v-tec in fourth gear cuz its at 4800, take a v-tec controller and set it at 3800 but thats only if you gt turbo and maybe performance cams, so instead of possibly damaging your gaskets because you're running highr rpm's just so you can 'shift from third higher, thus making you get into 4th gear at higher rpms giving you a better chance to engage the v-tec', as CH46ESeaKnight was stating, if you were reading everyone posts... i think that's a better alternative... no???
and ur a 'mega-moderator'??????????????????????
and ur a 'mega-moderator'??????????????????????
#19
Originally Posted by black_type-s
well, im talkin bout shiftin from third to fourth how it actually DOES feel like u jus popped out a parachute genius, so since its so hard to get to v-tec in fourth gear cuz its at 4800, take a v-tec controller and set it at 3800 but thats only if you gt turbo and maybe performance cams, so instead of possibly damaging your gaskets because you're running highr rpm's just so you can 'shift from third higher, thus making you get into 4th gear at higher rpms giving you a better chance to engage the v-tec', as CH46ESeaKnight was stating, if you were reading everyone posts... i think that's a better alternative... no???
and ur a 'mega-moderator'??????????????????????
and ur a 'mega-moderator'??????????????????????
#20
I think that V-tec is right were it needs to be. I don't think lowering it is the answer to our 3rd to 4th gear problem. When your in V-tec you need those RPM's to get any benefit. Not a bad idea, but it just won't accomplish the same end results as the slightly higher rpm shift point would.
Also the higher rpm is not harder on gaskets. If anything its harder on the valve train, and basically the entire rotating assembly.
Also the higher rpm is not harder on gaskets. If anything its harder on the valve train, and basically the entire rotating assembly.
#21
Originally Posted by black_type-s
... i think that's a better alternative... no???
and ur a 'mega-moderator'??????????????????????
and ur a 'mega-moderator'??????????????????????
Mega moderator, yes, and he knows more about these engines then you or I could dream of.
#23
Originally Posted by CH46ESeaKnight
I think that V-tec is right were it needs to be. I don't think lowering it is the answer to our 3rd to 4th gear problem. When your in V-tec you need those RPM's to get any benefit. Not a bad idea, but it just won't accomplish the same end results as the slightly higher rpm shift point would.
Also the higher rpm is not harder on gaskets. If anything its harder on the valve train, and basically the entire rotating assembly.
Also the higher rpm is not harder on gaskets. If anything its harder on the valve train, and basically the entire rotating assembly.
#24
if you had turbo or performance cams i said... which u might want a lower compression ratio, and i never said it would do justice, jus thought it'd be safer, mechanical engineers built this engine, an engine which could produce 500+ hp, i mean, shiiii, the le mans IS only a 3.4 producin 540hp, nice right, but, i think they know whats best for our cars, but i take back the 'better alternative' and switch it for 'safer'?? lol i kno the valves need to open differently at lower engine speed, but i guess the engineers already figured that 4800 is best, who also probably kno that 7100 redline is best... maybe a small turbo to help boost is the best solution?
#25
if u look at a dyno sheet the engine starts to lose power as you approach redline...ive also found that have the lightweight crank pulley eliminated my 3rd to 4th falling out of vtec problem. just my
#27
Originally Posted by davepaul033
I used to have the same problem, until i lowered vtec to 4,800 the exact rpm i am at after i run 3rd to the max. I never pop out of vtec and just keep gaining. No lights came on either.
#29
Originally Posted by L's TL
if u look at a dyno sheet the engine starts to lose power as you approach redline...ive also found that have the lightweight crank pulley eliminated my 3rd to 4th falling out of vtec problem. just my
#30
Originally Posted by black_type-s
if you had turbo or performance cams i said... which u might want a lower compression ratio, and i never said it would do justice, jus thought it'd be safer, mechanical engineers built this engine, an engine which could produce 500+ hp, i mean, shiiii, the le mans IS only a 3.4 producin 540hp, nice right, but, i think they know whats best for our cars, but i take back the 'better alternative' and switch it for 'safer'?? lol i kno the valves need to open differently at lower engine speed, but i guess the engineers already figured that 4800 is best, who also probably kno that 7100 redline is best... maybe a small turbo to help boost is the best solution?
You don't make much sence dude.
Let me ask you, why would you lower the comp ration if you changed your cams? then that would negate the power gains of a new cam.
And the rest of your post is a waste of time. Come on, comparring our engines to race engines. OK.
And no, the enginers have a target HP with saftey and reliability being the number 1 concearn. Just like a factory turbo car. You can almost always safley raise the boost to get more power right? Same thing with our rev limiter. A few hundred rpm would be fine. And doing it with out new cams is just fine too.
#31
I would second whoever mentioned that our engines begin to lose power as you approach the redline. Think about it, for that extra 500 RPM that you are revving, you will most likely be dropping off in horsepower. Instead, shift where the engine stops making power and you will be regaining power quicker than if you try to rev it higher where you are losing power. I don't know if i explained my opinion in a way that makes sense, but basically i don't think your car would drive faster or put down better numbers if you could rev past where it makes power. I would guess it would be slower. These cars are not 4 cylinder, and they start making power earlier and don't make as much power approaching the redline, so I don't think we really have to worry as much about dropping a couple hundred rpm lower when we shift IMO. I could understand it might be nice to have that rev limiter a little higher just so we don't bounce off of it and get the parachute effect, but i think the best place to shift is wherever our car starts losing power on the dyno, and have a shift light or something around there. I would not want to test my valvetrain revving the car higher than the valvesprings may be able to handle. Its too bad I don't think anyone makes upgraded valvesprings and cams for us, or else we could rev higher, make power at higher RPMs, and stay in vtec when race-shifting. This is all just my opinion and what makes sense in my head, if i am incorrect someone please explain. Sorry for rambling guys but its almost 4AM and this really got me thinking. Hopefully it makes sense when i read it tomorrow, ha.
#32
actually headers move the power peak up higher into the rpm range, therefore he wants to increase the redline. people on this forum seem to believe that you can easily wind out the engine to 7100 before chaning gears but the auto cars WOT shift point is 6800 and you run it to fuel cutoff when in manual mode (7200)
#34
Originally Posted by davepaul033
225/40/18 and yeah i have a type s. Didnt know it engaged at 4800 thought it was 5 something
#35
Originally Posted by CH46ESeaKnight
Mine looks like its at 5k when it goes in. I think my tach is just off a bit. But yes it does go at 4800.
#36
yes u do lose after 6800 but they want to raise it so that when u go into 4th gear, u have a better chance of getting into v-tec so its kinda worth losin a lil bit of power for 5 seconds reaching 7500 but once u go into 4th gear and ur already around 4500 but, that doesnt make ne sense, doesnt the computer like automatically bring it down to that certain rpm ?? maybe its something to do with tuning ur ecu, no???
#37
Originally Posted by CH46ESeaKnight
You don't make much sence dude.
Let me ask you, why would you lower the comp ration if you changed your cams? then that would negate the power gains of a new cam.
And the rest of your post is a waste of time. Come on, comparring our engines to race engines. OK.
And no, the enginers have a target HP with saftey and reliability being the number 1 concearn. Just like a factory turbo car. You can almost always safley raise the boost to get more power right? Same thing with our rev limiter. A few hundred rpm would be fine. And doing it with out new cams is just fine too.
Let me ask you, why would you lower the comp ration if you changed your cams? then that would negate the power gains of a new cam.
And the rest of your post is a waste of time. Come on, comparring our engines to race engines. OK.
And no, the enginers have a target HP with saftey and reliability being the number 1 concearn. Just like a factory turbo car. You can almost always safley raise the boost to get more power right? Same thing with our rev limiter. A few hundred rpm would be fine. And doing it with out new cams is just fine too.
uhh, lower ur compression ratio if u put turbo OR get vtec controller if u get performance cams, not lower ur comp ratio if u get cams, wtf???? y dont u go ahead and get turbo exhaust headers for v6 accord, slap on some turbo, put ur battery in the back and see if u wanna run high compression wit turbo, go right ahead, please!
#38
Originally Posted by CH46ESeaKnight
You don't make much sence dude.
Let me ask you, why would you lower the comp ration if you changed your cams? then that would negate the power gains of a new cam.
And the rest of your post is a waste of time. Come on, comparring our engines to race engines. OK.
And no, the enginers have a target HP with saftey and reliability being the number 1 concearn. Just like a factory turbo car. You can almost always safley raise the boost to get more power right? Same thing with our rev limiter. A few hundred rpm would be fine. And doing it with out new cams is just fine too.
Let me ask you, why would you lower the comp ration if you changed your cams? then that would negate the power gains of a new cam.
And the rest of your post is a waste of time. Come on, comparring our engines to race engines. OK.
And no, the enginers have a target HP with saftey and reliability being the number 1 concearn. Just like a factory turbo car. You can almost always safley raise the boost to get more power right? Same thing with our rev limiter. A few hundred rpm would be fine. And doing it with out new cams is just fine too.
and raising boost is NOT the same as raising the rev limit, raising boost gets u to the redline quicker, fine, abuse ur turbo n ur engine, im sure it can handle it, but ur talking about raising the rev limiter, going PASSED ur redline, to me thats dangerous and not worth it, spend 5 g's get comptech supercharger or get turbo kit from like an accord v6 bore out some headers or whatever u need to do, jus dont raise the rev limiter just MY !!!
#39
Originally Posted by black_type-s
and raising boost is NOT the same as raising the rev limit, raising boost gets u to the redline quicker, fine, abuse ur turbo n ur engine, im sure it can handle it, but ur talking about raising the rev limiter, going PASSED ur redline, to me thats dangerous and not worth it, spend 5 g's get comptech supercharger or get turbo kit from like an accord v6 bore out some headers or whatever u need to do, jus dont raise the rev limiter just MY !!!
Quit useing text message langauge on a forum, you look like a retard.