YeuEmMaiMai

I need to replace my radiator on my car as I am starting to smell antifreeze when I get out and there is dried green residue at the plastic / aluminum seam.

It appears to be a pretty straight forward deal after draining coolant...

1. remove plastic cover (the A grill peice)
2. remove upper bolts
3. remove shroud and unplug fans
4. disconnect rad and replace

anything that I missed here?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Just a few other important steps involving:

Draining the coolant by lossening the petcock.

Transmission cooler lines.

Make sure you don't reuse spring-clamps. One time use only.

Also, disconnect the radiator hoses last and save yourself from working in a wet mess.

If you can afford it, buy either the Redline or Royal Purple coolant enhancer as it will aid in the dispersion of heat from coolant at a faster rate than without. Great additive for summer due to increased AC operation/ambient heat temps.

Let the engine heat cycle 2-3 times before assuming the coolant is topped off. I generally run the heater inside the car to ensure the heater core is filled and let the car idle from cool to hot with the cap off until the coolant begins to consistently dribble out of the radiator fill hole.

Good luck.

YeuEmMaiMai

I do not believe the CLS has trans cooler lines connected to the radiator

the coolant also circulates all the time as there is a blend door in the HVAC

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

I am pretty darn sure we don't have a trans cooler on the CL or cls .thats why I went through the hassle of adding one.. The mdx does but the CL does not. Op make sure it's not your rad hose oosing or you rad cap leaking. I have had that build up and it was the cap first time... I just cleaned it and it stopped seeping by the gasket. The other time my rad hose stared to go and it literally leaked out of when ends and gathered where u are describing.

I doubt u need a new rad from my experiences... Just saying

YeuEmMaiMai

I pulled the cap and checked it once but I can check it again when I leave. I am not leaving any visible puddles. The hoses are still in good shape with no obvious signs of wear and Acura did not notice any leaks when they did my 105K service at 118K

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

Clean it all up with hot water and a tooth brush. Wrap paper towel around the rad cap location. Tape it loosely so u can see where and if it leaks. You should find ur answer

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You guys may be right. My 98 Accord had a cooler but my TL-S did not. Just another reason why 2g TL/CL 's had so many issues with their autos. As for the heater, the coolant only flows through the heater core when the switch is moved further towards full heat on the temp selector. This is because the heater control valve opens/closes in accordance with the temp selector. If its in the cool position, the cable keeps the heater control valve in a fully closed state.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

so was i right or ...?

YeuEmMaiMai

lack of a trans cooler is NOT the reason the auto has issues. Lack of lubrication is. The oil passages for the 3rd gear clutch pack are too small and need to be enlarged. A transmission cooler is NOT going to resolve that one.