autoxCLS

Hi there - first post for me on this board but I'm finding the topics here pretty cool!

I haven't seen any threads of people who auto-x their CLSes and was wondering if anyone who does autox their CLS would have any tips for me! My CLS (Nighthawk Black with ebony interior) is totally stock - save my V1. I was wondering what mods you've done, what kind of tires you use (I've been looking at Yokie AVS Sport 225/45-17 on the stock rims) to replace my tired Michelin All-seasons, and I've heard that making an intake change yields 25-30hp at the wheels.

Any suggestions are appreciated - and yes, I am on a budget.

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2001 CL Type-S, Black w Black
STOCK

soopa

Well, I dont know of many of us that AutoX...

If your gonna AutoX, you need springs, sways, and some grippy tires. You also need TORQUE. hehe

Adding a Cold Air Intake wont yield any significant gains... especially in cold weather. But it sounds cool.

Exhaust Headers will add about 30hp.

SidVicious

I recommend you do a search for headers, intake, springs and sways and you'll find what most people are doing to their cars.


And welcome aboard!


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SidVicious
2001 CL Type S w/ NAV in Silver | Wheel Locks | Front Plate (Mounted in the Trunk) | Mobil 1 | Polarg M6 | K&N Filter (Mounted in the Trunk 'til the old one wears out) | Comptech Sways (on the way) | Sungard Tint (30% Sides, 20% Back) | DOM 11/2000 |

1992 Ford Ranger XLT in Silver | F-150 Springs | 3" Body Lift | K&N Filter | Flowmaster Exhaust |

{insert "Green Box 4 Mod!" gif here}

[This message has been edited by SidVicious (edited 06-14-2001).]

thholr

I ran an auto-x track once , was about 10 seconds slower than the vette. Considering it was a 55 second track it sucked, but then again I wasnt pushing hard . I would recommend, headers, sways , strut bar, springs and a CAI. Skip the exhaust I dont think the price justifies the 2-3 hp gain

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2001 Acura CL Type S
San Marino red
non nav.
Neuspeed strut

NOVAwhiteTypeS

PhiTL went auto Xing w/ this modded TL.

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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter.Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers,Springs,Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.Polarg m6


gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.

JSuppi

autox-CL-er,
Glad to hear about someone possibly getting bit by the Auto-X bug I don't mean to dis' the car, but you definetly want to watch it if you plan to Auto-X. It's usually pretty harsh on the car (lots of left/right/left movement and very extreme). Don't get me wrong, I did it for awhile and had a great time, but be careful!! It might be fun to do once, or twice but don't plan on doing it very often in the CL. Especially if the CL is your daiily driver.

I would suggest you seriously getting a new (used old RX7, or one of the best Auto-X cars are the Miata's and S2K's. The S2k's being a bit more than the Miata's especially if you can get a used Miata) car that you can trash around and have no problems if it should happen to break down on you.

I've been to like 4-5 AutoX events and it was a blast, but ever since I had my tranny problems and replacement will be doing AutoX's in another car that I don't mind having down for repair.

But if you choose to still AutoX your car understand that this is a timed contest which will more than likely void your warranty if they can ever prove that you did it.

But if you don't mind the hassle and worry of the car being ragged on like that, be sure to get Spring and Sways in addition to the tire upgrade. Definetly do the tire upgrade (I did to the Yoko AVS DB in the size you mentioned), but be forwarned that the AutoX will wear those puppies down like there's no tomorrow and quick!! If you have the money to do it go for it (I spent 700+ for mine) but those tires are excellent everyday tires as well. Super, super quiet and they are great in the rain!!

No need to do headers since you're going to have a hard time as it is trying to keep the noise tucked in without the additional 20+ hp they will give you. CAI may be a better decision, and would also suggest it over the headers.

If you have any questions feel free to drop me a line, and remember to get a good fitting helmet Make sure (if it's a full face) that it's snug enough to wear you get a little movement when you grab the bottom part of the helmet and you can move it just a slightly bit left and right and up and down, but make sure it doesn't move more than that!!



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01'
Black/Ebony CLS

Beach-CL

Hey, welcome.

Does anyone know where they do AutoX in the LA area? I'd love to go.

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2001 Silver CL-S

DtEW

Something to keep in mind about AutoX is that mods (in addition to the model of your car) basically define what class you race in. Going faster than when you were bone stock but losing to all the other modified cars that you're now classified with still sucks.

It's a fairly complicated issue that you should research before you embark on modding your CL-S. Finding out who your competitors are now, and who they will be after so-and-so mods can make the entire difference between having real potential to win, and having no chance whatsoever, even on a cold day in Hell.

That said, anything beyond shocks (must keep unmolested stock springs), front stabilizer, and cat-back exhaust will kick you out of Stock classification. Is the CL-S competitive with its rivals in whatever Stock class it's in? (I don't know. You should find out.) If it isn't, what are the weaknesses that need to be addressed? What class does addressing them w/mods kick you into?

I know for a fact than any CAI for the CL-S (in fact, any car) will kick you into one of the Street Prepared classes. That class gives a great degree of freedom in what you can do to the suspension (read: serious competitors are going to HAVE TO DO SOMETHING to remain competitive w/everyone else), so that means it's going to be expensive to be competitive.

Another issue is: are that mods that you're going to be forced to do mods that you actually want to do? For example, I for one can't live w/the aural conspicuousness of an open-element intake. I am planning my car for Street Prepared (primarily because of my desire for performance coil-overs even in non-AutoX driving), but w/o a CAI I am in theory handicapped versus those that have them, which is allowed in Street Prepared. What can I do to make up for that? Is my total plan good?

You need to ask and answer these questions yourself.

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051/LP/SR/LD/HH
Potenza S-02 Pole Position

The Reasonable Voice of Bias

DtEW

Beach-CL, there's an AutoX this Sunday in Orange County at the El Toro MCAS! Check http://www.solo2.com/ for full details.

I wasn't planning on attending originally, but I'd consider going if others I knew from online were also going.

(No, this is not a challenge. I expect a driver experience w/El Toro recently (me) to be faster anyways, assuming your newbiehood. But I think it'd be a hoot just to chat and appreciate cars in an actual performance driving environment, as opposed to standing around in some parking lot looking at/chatting about cars we're already familiar with.)

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051/LP/SR/LD/HH
Potenza S-02 Pole Position

The Reasonable Voice of Bias

[This message has been edited by DtEW (edited 06-15-2001).]

Beach-CL

I'd like to go but may not be able to get out of previous commitments.
I'll check the URL to get details.

Thanks!



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2001 Silver CL-S

SJ Silver Type-S

Damn, my parents live 10 minutes from the base. Too bad, have you ever gone to Tustin Thunder out there? Pretty sweet...

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CoMpTeCh HeAdErS
eIbAcH sPrInGs
AeM cAi

PimpGold

I've been autocrossing this year, and I started in my CL-S! I only did 4 events on the CL-S, and even tho I REALLY caught the bug, I got sick of driving a non-competitive car. I'm not telling you to ditch your CL, I just got very serious about auto-x and decided that if I'm going to be this into something, I might as well be competitive. My best advice to you is to worry about modding your car MUCH later on if you're planning to make this sport a serious hobby. Work on the driver, first. I've run about 20+ events this year, and the only serious performance mod I've done to my Type R is to put in a Comptech air filter. Essentially, if you want to stay in Stock class (highly recommended), you're incredibly limited as to the mods you can do to your car. Driving the CL-S, I can tell you it's VERY easy to go too hot into a corner, and then plow all the way through it. That's not fast, just FYI. Your car is also semi-heavy for the brakes it has, so be warned they're going to heat up quick and tend to fade if you're on a (relatively) high-speed course. The pluses are you have a LOT of torque, so you're going to be able to get up to speed quickly coming off corners. The downside to that is that without a limited slip differential, it's very easy to spin the front tires before you can get the steering wheel straight. All that said, you're going to have a lot of fun, but you're not going to be competitive for awhile, especially not against smaller, lighter cars that are almost as quick as you are and handle better. I'm not down on the CL-S, and I hope this post doesn't come off that way, it's just simply not built for Autocrossing. If I hadn't discovered Auto-X, there's no way ANYone would have convinced me to trade my nice, big, powerful, comfy CL-S for some small, uncomfortable, buzzy Type R, but such is life Hope this helps a little bit.. and yeah, as someone said earlier, some different tires will help. Maybe Bridgestone Potenza S0-3's, or if you really want to get hardcore, some Hoosiers or Kumho V700's.

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01' Yellow Type R
PIAA Headlights
Comptech Air Filter
replaced an '01 CL-S

autoxCLS

Pimp,

Yeah - my CLS is not comptetive in GSTK (the class I'm in) but I have a feeling it could be. The last few events I went to, the two top placers were a '99 Prelude SH and a '98 Accord V-6. Both had R-rated rubber but supposedly were stock outside of that. I would hope I could get the Accord, but the Prelude might be outside of my capabilities. > I'm not too worried about the others in the class right now - I just like going out and leaving goodyear on the ground! On a side note, VSA is a BAD thing for auto-xing, for anyone that might do it in the near future. Wheelspin is a GOOD thing when you want to slide through a corner, or bring on the speed after you hit the apex. VSA tended to back-peddle my throttle imputs, so I never knew what the car was going to do. Most of the events I've gone to have been solo2 (shorter, slower) so I just put the shifter down in 1-2 and usually just leave it in 2 after the launch! With VSA off, I even did a 360 a few months ago down at an event in Ft Myers!

I have a feeling that I'll just get some 17" wheels (lighter of course) and put some R-compound tires on them in a year or so. In the meantime, I'll just grab those Yokies I was talking about. My wife has a Ford Expedition that we're thinking about getting a trailer for the CLS (she drives the CLS in autoxes too!!!) so we could bring the R-tires (Toyo proxies or something like that) and not put more miles on the CLS.

Thanks for all the replies!

Schuyler

DtEW

Whoa, you're never going to be competitive in any "ST" class. Your CL-S is 3.2 liters, which makes it ineligible for any Street Touring class.

I'm also a little perplexed by the "K" designation. I've only encountered "STS" (Street Touring - Street tires), "STR" (Street Touring - Race tires), and "STM" (Street Touring - Modified). What does the "K" stand for?

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051/LP/SR/LD/HH
Potenza S-02 Pole Position

The Reasonable Voice of Bias

autoxCLS

Sorry for the screw-up - The league I race with down here uses that to stand for G-STOCK.

magnetic1

u dont want to be in STS... those Imprezas will kick butt... GS is a relatively easy class... change to CAI will not throw u out of GS... as per SCCA rules...

Change to some racing tires.. that are DOT.. Hoosiers, Kumhos, and the like.. that will still keep u in stock class.. you will be surprised at the difference in handling just from tires...

Lastly.. it isnt about speed and horsepower... so dont mod up your car to like over 300HP and expect anything... its all about control and smoothness.

And yes.. if you go once.. you will be hooked for life

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Eric Wong
01 nonCL :P

DtEW

Umm, I don't know how you're readling those SCCA rules, but here is the text of it to refresh your memory:

"13.10 Engine and Drive Train"

"A. The engine air filter element may be removed or replaced. A replacement element which is taller than standard may not be used to hold the air cleaner cover open. No other components of the air induction system may be removed, replaced or modified."

That reads to me that drop-in's such as K&N's are legal, while CAI's are absolutely not.

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051/LP/SR/LD/HH
Potenza S-02 Pole Position

The Reasonable Voice of Bias

fbazakos

I did a lot of research on this, I just havent had the time to go. It is pretty cheap and sounds like a blast. I talked to the president of a local club on the phone, and it sounds neat. They all want to know what our car can do, they have a special class (read: not instructional) for newbies.

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Black 2001 Type S
*Eibach Pro-Kit (Waiting to be installed)
*Xephyr Cold Air Intake
*PIAA 19224, 19169
*Rockford 500a2 [FOR SALE]
*Pioneer 12" @ 400w (x2) [FOR SALE]
*77237-SOK-A02
---Still 2 rims not scratched---

PhiTL_RENAMED

As NovaWhiteTypeS mentioned before I took my TL out Auto-xing a couple of times. This is my big suggestion. No matter how modded your car is, driver ability is what gives you good times. In other words you can be driving a Z06 but if you are not "smooth" and precise in your turns, expect to not fair well.

I will be the first to say that I am still a novice but I would concentrate on driving skills for that small hesitations and bad lines will add seconds to your time.


These are my advice:

Most solo course and auto-x events you can keep your car in 1-2 gear.

As stated above turn off your TCS/VSA so that you have full control of your car as opposed to the VSA/TCS.

Check your tire pressure and make sure it is correct. The last time I ran I set mine to 35 PSI, but it flucuates as it heats up.

Of course avoid the cones, but the marks comes off easily so dont worry about scuffing up the paint.

Finally, last but not least have fun!

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'00 White Diamond Perl w/Nav and DVD Kit
WW Spoiler, Comptech Exhaust, Rear Comptech Sway bar, H&R OE Sport Springs, AEM CAI, Inspire Tails, Inspire Interior footwell lighting

autoxCLS

I found that 40-42 PSI in the front and 35-37 in the rear worked best for me. It made a DRAMATIC difference in grip with the stock tires. As a veteran driver told me there are three basic principles - 1)Break HARD in a straight line, 2) Go wide into a curve and tight out, 3) don't "slam" the throttle - squeeze it. Those have helped me the most. Walking the course 2-3x is a MUST before the runs. This is a great must-read for new auto-xers: http://www.tirerack.com/features/solo2/handbook.htm



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'01 CL-S, Nighthawk Black / Ebony, Stock w/ V1