Question re: Exhaust Install (Comptech Axleback)
#1
Where is my super sauce?
Thread Starter
![Question](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
I just installed a set of Comptech Axleback exhausts on my 2003 CL. Thanks to MrSteve for the exhaust
Even after PB Blaster, taking off the old exhaust bolts was a bitch. One bolt was very stubborn and I couldn't even budge it with a stripped bolt remover. I ended up taking it off with a Dremel -- for an hour it was me or the bolt. The bolt almost won, but I prevailed in the end.
I put the new exhaust on with new 10x30 bolts, nuts and new gaskets. Everything went together fine, but here's what I noticed and a question:
The Comptech flange (the oval part) is a bit smaller the the OEM B pipe. I'm sure this is not an issue.
I bolted the two bolts tightly but there is still a small, maybe 1mm space between the flanges. When I look closely, the gap seems to be filled by metal (piping & gasket).
How do I know if there is a leak?
Should I be concerned about the small gap? I have a feeling if I look again in a month it'll be rusted shut anyway.
The car drives fine and sounds nice.
Here are some pics:
left B pipe to axleback flanges
![](https://tinypic.com/5bpc2r)
right B pipe to axleback flanges
![](https://tinypic.com/5bpc78)
closer left
![](https://tinypic.com/5bpc94)
closer right --- this is the best picture for the small gap in the middle -- see how the bolts are tight and the area near the bolts are more flush then the area in the middle where the piping is?
![](https://tinypic.com/5bpcb8)
the whole thing
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Even after PB Blaster, taking off the old exhaust bolts was a bitch. One bolt was very stubborn and I couldn't even budge it with a stripped bolt remover. I ended up taking it off with a Dremel -- for an hour it was me or the bolt. The bolt almost won, but I prevailed in the end.
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
I put the new exhaust on with new 10x30 bolts, nuts and new gaskets. Everything went together fine, but here's what I noticed and a question:
The Comptech flange (the oval part) is a bit smaller the the OEM B pipe. I'm sure this is not an issue.
I bolted the two bolts tightly but there is still a small, maybe 1mm space between the flanges. When I look closely, the gap seems to be filled by metal (piping & gasket).
How do I know if there is a leak?
Should I be concerned about the small gap? I have a feeling if I look again in a month it'll be rusted shut anyway.
The car drives fine and sounds nice.
Here are some pics:
left B pipe to axleback flanges
right B pipe to axleback flanges
closer left
closer right --- this is the best picture for the small gap in the middle -- see how the bolts are tight and the area near the bolts are more flush then the area in the middle where the piping is?
the whole thing
#3
Cost Drivers!!!!
slimey,
had the same issues as well they are PITA to get off. Looks like gaps as well
I had the same worries but no problems at all. You shuold be fine.
had the same issues as well they are PITA to get off. Looks like gaps as well
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#5
Senior Moderator
you're golden
#6
Suzuka Master
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should of took your dremel tool and cleaned up where the 2 flanges meet eachother..
I hope you were smart enough to put some anti-seize compound on the threads of those bolts.. if not, you will have a hell of time taking them off in the future.
Remember, when working with exhaust components.. WHEN in DOUBT.. use HEAT... a propane torch will work nicely on a stubborn bolt and nut... heat it up till it glows read.. use a breaker bar and it will come right off.
I hope you were smart enough to put some anti-seize compound on the threads of those bolts.. if not, you will have a hell of time taking them off in the future.
Remember, when working with exhaust components.. WHEN in DOUBT.. use HEAT... a propane torch will work nicely on a stubborn bolt and nut... heat it up till it glows read.. use a breaker bar and it will come right off.
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#8
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Originally Posted by ThinJim
another way to cut those bolts off is to use a saw-zaw with a medal cutting type blade. Very fast. the never seize compound works great and also use stainless steel bolts and nuts. You've got nothing to worry about, looks good![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
good idea.. BUT... the stock exhaust bolts are welded onto the muffler flange... you cut those... you will find yourself drilling out bolts from the OEM muffler flange.
#9
Where is my super sauce?
Thread Starter
Yes -- I cleaned the inner part of the flange off on both sides. There really wasn't a lot of rust on the inner part of the flange anyhow. A couple taps with a hammer released everything in a couple large pieces.
Yes -- anti-seize to the bolts in case I ever get a B-pipe upgrade and want to take the thing apart. If you look closely at the pictures, you can see some stray smears of the gray anti-seize grease.
I didn't have a saz-all but thought of a hacksaw...I also was tempted to heat the thing up (I own a propane torch for creme brulee that I make maybe once every other year
) but thought I might hurt myself. The nut was already rounded and I forsaw me burning myself after I slipped off the rouded nut.
Steps I did -
1) PB blaster.
2) Six sided closed wrench with second wrench to extend the lever arm **this worked on three nuts**
3) the one nut rounded to the wrench so I tried one of those Bolt-Off devices with the fluted insides. This only ended up shaving more metal off the nut. The nut wouldn't budge.
4) Dremel with cut-off tool. I went through about five cut-off wheels but eventually cut the nut off in four pieces.
My next purchase has to be some power tools...this was a bit more of a pain then it should have been.
I'm reassured by the comments in the thread, but no one said what (if anything) I would notice if there was a leak.
I take it the seal between the B-pipe and the muffler doesn't have to be air tight. I take it there would be more bolts and a more substantial gasket if this was the case.
Yes -- anti-seize to the bolts in case I ever get a B-pipe upgrade and want to take the thing apart. If you look closely at the pictures, you can see some stray smears of the gray anti-seize grease.
I didn't have a saz-all but thought of a hacksaw...I also was tempted to heat the thing up (I own a propane torch for creme brulee that I make maybe once every other year
![Yum](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/yum.gif)
Steps I did -
1) PB blaster.
2) Six sided closed wrench with second wrench to extend the lever arm **this worked on three nuts**
3) the one nut rounded to the wrench so I tried one of those Bolt-Off devices with the fluted insides. This only ended up shaving more metal off the nut. The nut wouldn't budge.
4) Dremel with cut-off tool. I went through about five cut-off wheels but eventually cut the nut off in four pieces.
My next purchase has to be some power tools...this was a bit more of a pain then it should have been.
I'm reassured by the comments in the thread, but no one said what (if anything) I would notice if there was a leak.
I take it the seal between the B-pipe and the muffler doesn't have to be air tight. I take it there would be more bolts and a more substantial gasket if this was the case.
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#11
Where is my super sauce?
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by LTRAIN
looks really nice... i think CT makes the best LOOKING exhausts. Other aftermarket exhausts look too big and a lil ricey IMO.
I drove them through a large variety of RPM during my morning commute. They add a nice low end growl but pretty much sound stock above 3K RPM or so. That's good for me.
As for my original question I'll ask again as a bump for the Monday Morning crowd:
What symptoms would the car have/how would I know if there was an exhaust leak betweent the B-pipe and the muffler?
#12
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Originally Posted by Slimey
I'd be a tad happier if the cutouts on the rear bumper were round instead of oval, but it's not a big deal.
#13
Where is my super sauce?
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Smitty
if there were round you would have a melted plastic bumper... those CT mufflers get really hot.. alot hotter than the OEM mufflers.
#14
Beware of leakage
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I believe you would hear the leak if it were indeed leaking. Kind of like a ticking sound. for testing purposes, start her up and crawl underneath and listen at each, you should be able to hear it.
#16
Burning Brakes
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seems like theres a bit of a problem installing the CT exhaust. I thought all CT parts were suppose to fit perfectly without any issues. I am contemplating getting CT catback, will it have any fitment issues?
#17
Where is my super sauce?
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by andyjl
seems like theres a bit of a problem installing the CT exhaust. I thought all CT parts were suppose to fit perfectly without any issues. I am contemplating getting CT catback, will it have any fitment issues?
![No](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/no.gif)
I'm not sure what you mean.
Looking the install directions, the full cat-back exhaust fits together differently (V-band clamps, pieces fit inside each other) then the B-pipe + axle back (bolts on flanges).
#18
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slimey,
i guess it was borne out of the thread, cuz some people were talking about cutting using a saw, heat, etc. etc..
i guess theres nothing to worry about then.
i guess it was borne out of the thread, cuz some people were talking about cutting using a saw, heat, etc. etc..
i guess theres nothing to worry about then.
#19
Where is my super sauce?
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by andyjl
slimey,
i guess it was borne out of the thread, cuz some people were talking about cutting using a saw, heat, etc. etc..
i guess theres nothing to worry about then.
i guess it was borne out of the thread, cuz some people were talking about cutting using a saw, heat, etc. etc..
i guess theres nothing to worry about then.
#20
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Yeah they look good... the same gap was on my car. They were a BITCH to get off; even with an air impact wrench and an air ratchet. Took about an hour to get the fucking things off. Two Mid-Atlantic winters were hell on the bolts. I put new ones on when I installed them too.
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