Slimey

I just installed a set of Comptech Axleback exhausts on my 2003 CL. Thanks to MrSteve for the exhaust

Even after PB Blaster, taking off the old exhaust bolts was a bitch. One bolt was very stubborn and I couldn't even budge it with a stripped bolt remover. I ended up taking it off with a Dremel -- for an hour it was me or the bolt. The bolt almost won, but I prevailed in the end.

I put the new exhaust on with new 10x30 bolts, nuts and new gaskets. Everything went together fine, but here's what I noticed and a question:

The Comptech flange (the oval part) is a bit smaller the the OEM B pipe. I'm sure this is not an issue.

I bolted the two bolts tightly but there is still a small, maybe 1mm space between the flanges. When I look closely, the gap seems to be filled by metal (piping & gasket).

How do I know if there is a leak?
Should I be concerned about the small gap? I have a feeling if I look again in a month it'll be rusted shut anyway.

The car drives fine and sounds nice.

Here are some pics:
left B pipe to axleback flanges


right B pipe to axleback flanges


closer left


closer right --- this is the best picture for the small gap in the middle -- see how the bolts are tight and the area near the bolts are more flush then the area in the middle where the piping is?


the whole thing

Slimey

If it's worth anything -- I just tried spraying simple green soap on the flanges -- started the car and no bubbles.

Zapata

slimey,
had the same issues as well they are PITA to get off. Looks like gaps as well I had the same worries but no problems at all. You shuold be fine.

Slimey

that's reassuring! thanks

mattg

you're golden

Smitty

should of took your dremel tool and cleaned up where the 2 flanges meet eachother..

I hope you were smart enough to put some anti-seize compound on the threads of those bolts.. if not, you will have a hell of time taking them off in the future.

Remember, when working with exhaust components.. WHEN in DOUBT.. use HEAT... a propane torch will work nicely on a stubborn bolt and nut... heat it up till it glows read.. use a breaker bar and it will come right off.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

another way to cut those bolts off is to use a saw-zaw with a medal cutting type blade. Very fast. the never seize compound works great and also use stainless steel bolts and nuts. You've got nothing to worry about, looks good

Smitty

good idea.. BUT... the stock exhaust bolts are welded onto the muffler flange... you cut those... you will find yourself drilling out bolts from the OEM muffler flange.

Slimey

Yes -- I cleaned the inner part of the flange off on both sides. There really wasn't a lot of rust on the inner part of the flange anyhow. A couple taps with a hammer released everything in a couple large pieces.

Yes -- anti-seize to the bolts in case I ever get a B-pipe upgrade and want to take the thing apart. If you look closely at the pictures, you can see some stray smears of the gray anti-seize grease.

I didn't have a saz-all but thought of a hacksaw...I also was tempted to heat the thing up (I own a propane torch for creme brulee that I make maybe once every other year ) but thought I might hurt myself. The nut was already rounded and I forsaw me burning myself after I slipped off the rouded nut.

Steps I did -

1) PB blaster.
2) Six sided closed wrench with second wrench to extend the lever arm **this worked on three nuts**
3) the one nut rounded to the wrench so I tried one of those Bolt-Off devices with the fluted insides. This only ended up shaving more metal off the nut. The nut wouldn't budge.
4) Dremel with cut-off tool. I went through about five cut-off wheels but eventually cut the nut off in four pieces.


My next purchase has to be some power tools...this was a bit more of a pain then it should have been.

I'm reassured by the comments in the thread, but no one said what (if anything) I would notice if there was a leak.

I take it the seal between the B-pipe and the muffler doesn't have to be air tight. I take it there would be more bolts and a more substantial gasket if this was the case.

LTRAIN

looks really nice... i think CT makes the best LOOKING exhausts. Other aftermarket exhausts look too big and a lil ricey IMO.

Slimey

Yes. They do look nice. The stainless is much nicer then the stock black. I'd be a tad happier if the cutouts on the rear bumper were round instead of oval, but it's not a big deal.

I drove them through a large variety of RPM during my morning commute. They add a nice low end growl but pretty much sound stock above 3K RPM or so. That's good for me.


As for my original question I'll ask again as a bump for the Monday Morning crowd:
What symptoms would the car have/how would I know if there was an exhaust leak betweent the B-pipe and the muffler?

Smitty

if there were round you would have a melted plastic bumper... those CT mufflers get really hot.. alot hotter than the OEM mufflers.

Slimey

Good to know before I burn myself on them. Gracias.

Chopsie

I believe you would hear the leak if it were indeed leaking. Kind of like a ticking sound. for testing purposes, start her up and crawl underneath and listen at each, you should be able to hear it.

Slimey

No ticking. I'm happy.

andyjl

seems like theres a bit of a problem installing the CT exhaust. I thought all CT parts were suppose to fit perfectly without any issues. I am contemplating getting CT catback, will it have any fitment issues?

Slimey

I raised a question, but a problem? I think that has been borne out by this thread.

I'm not sure what you mean.

Looking the install directions, the full cat-back exhaust fits together differently (V-band clamps, pieces fit inside each other) then the B-pipe + axle back (bolts on flanges).

andyjl

slimey,
i guess it was borne out of the thread, cuz some people were talking about cutting using a saw, heat, etc. etc..

i guess theres nothing to worry about then.

Slimey

That's the rusted bolt's fault -- nothing to do with Comptech. That'll happen to any bolt on the undercarriage.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Yeah they look good... the same gap was on my car. They were a BITCH to get off; even with an air impact wrench and an air ratchet. Took about an hour to get the fucking things off. Two Mid-Atlantic winters were hell on the bolts. I put new ones on when I installed them too.

supernova_inc

NM I found the price on blackmarket just didnt look at front page I guess. TY Mr Steve for quick reply too

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Used they sell for $325-400 depending on the age and condition.