Question: Battery or Alternator?
#1
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Question: Battery or Alternator?
All:
Short story:
Tried to start the car, clicking from starter but wouldn't start! Jumped it and started fine, drove the car for 20 miles non-stop. Stopped and then tried to start it to return home and needed a jump again! Drove home 20 miles, turned off car and won't restart!
How can I tell if it's my battery or alternator?
John
Short story:
Tried to start the car, clicking from starter but wouldn't start! Jumped it and started fine, drove the car for 20 miles non-stop. Stopped and then tried to start it to return home and needed a jump again! Drove home 20 miles, turned off car and won't restart!
How can I tell if it's my battery or alternator?
John
#2
Senior Moderator
put a volt meter across the battery terminals. it should read at least 12 volts+ if i remember correctly. you have to pull the alternator and get it tested at an auto parts store to determine if it's working or not.
anywho, sounds like a dead battery.
anywho, sounds like a dead battery.
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Depends on how old your battery is. If you ran the car for 20 mins nonstop and the Alternator didnt put any charge into the battery then IT possibly could be an alternator. If the battery old then no matter how good an alternator it can push the juice into a DEAD battery.
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#8
I'm thinking its your battery to.
To test, heres what i would do.
Jump the car again, start it up, take that wires off the battery, if car dies then its alternator, if cars still running, then its the battery,
Hope that helps
To test, heres what i would do.
Jump the car again, start it up, take that wires off the battery, if car dies then its alternator, if cars still running, then its the battery,
Hope that helps
#10
Where is my super sauce?
Likely battery.
If you go to Sears, AutoZone, or PepBoys they'll do a quick check of your electrical system and answer your question before they sell you a battery.
If you go to Sears, AutoZone, or PepBoys they'll do a quick check of your electrical system and answer your question before they sell you a battery.
#11
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Thanks all!
New Castle Acura so happen to send me a coupon for $100 which includes: battery, clean cables, check alt belt, and rest of system.
I sware they can send a signal to the car to make things "appear" as failed.
LOL,
John
New Castle Acura so happen to send me a coupon for $100 which includes: battery, clean cables, check alt belt, and rest of system.
I sware they can send a signal to the car to make things "appear" as failed.
LOL,
John
#12
Blown is Best
Quick way to tell if it's your battery or alternator is by the intensity of the headlights. Turn on your headlights before you start the car and note the intensity. Once you jump start the car, if the lights are brighter, then you have alternator output and you've got a dead battery. If light intensity is still dull, then it's your alternator.
#13
LFG RANGERS!!!!!!!!!!!
iTrader: (6)
As nongque said
Easiest way to tell is disconnect the battery. Car does not run with no electricity. If it does not die the alternator is putting out sufficient juice to give spark to the coil. This does not mean it is putting out enough to charge the battery but it gives you a starting point in the process. I would have both checked at a competent AUTOMITIVE ELECTRICAL shop (not Pep Boys.)
Easiest way to tell is disconnect the battery. Car does not run with no electricity. If it does not die the alternator is putting out sufficient juice to give spark to the coil. This does not mean it is putting out enough to charge the battery but it gives you a starting point in the process. I would have both checked at a competent AUTOMITIVE ELECTRICAL shop (not Pep Boys.)
#14
Put a voltmeter on the battery terminals with the engine off. Probably read 11.5-12 volts or so. Start the engine and look again; if the voltage is the same as before the alternator is not putting juice to the battery. If the voltage is now up to 12.5-13 volts or so the alternator is working and it's time for a battery.
#15
LFG RANGERS!!!!!!!!!!!
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by Zippee
Put a voltmeter on the battery terminals with the engine off. Probably read 11.5-12 volts or so. Start the engine and look again; if the voltage is the same as before the alternator is not putting juice to the battery. If the voltage is now up to 12.5-13 volts or so the alternator is working and it's time for a battery.
I know this because I had a similar problem when I first installed my system in my 325. Battery & alternator new and good, at idle with nothing running 13.4v but when I ran all of the electrical items I state above I was running at 11.1-11.4 which means I was eating the battery. I added some grounds and all was well.
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