okay I'm eventally(once Sherri pays off her Silverado) gonna get a new Accord.
I put a budget limit on of 30 grand(but I want new)
now I can get a new Accord V-6 EX 4 door for about 22 grand(because my dad works at honda)(that's just an bare EX but an EX has most goodies)
but that's beside the point
I figured with the left over cash I could make it sweet.
so I figured I'd probably keep the Stereo,and interior pretty stock but do a little motor work by adding the much acclaimed C/T S/C.
but here's the hang up
1.I heard someone once say you can't change the spark plugs once you slap on the C/T s/c is this true
2. will it affect my dependabilty of the Accord
3. Are most honda dealers "cool" with Comptech stuff. because I don't want the warrenty to be killed because of the S/C

 

Isn't the Comptech S/C only for the last generation Accords? I don't think it will bolt onto the 2003 240hp V6 Accords. It will only work with the older 200hp engines.

 

you know they'll change it for the 03 Accord (because it's the same block as the 98-02) grant it they'll change a few things here and there but it will be similar

 

Yes it is true the spark plugs on the front bank require the removal of the S/C for access .However this is not as dramatic as it sounds the S/C is quickly removed and reinstalled and should not really present a problem .As far as a dealer being "cool" towards modded cars well as the saying goes "your mileage may vary".
You are covered under the Magnussen act (do a search here for info about this) ,however some dealers play hardball nonetheless for no other reason than to be a pain in the ass or they simply do not want to assume any liability or often they have no idea how to deal with modded cars .
Before you spend a large sum of money to do this sort of work it pays to go and speak to the dealers in your area ,ask to talk to the service manager not one of the underlings and get the straight scoop on that dealers outlook on life with modded cars .Just like you shop for a good deal on a car and continue shopping you should do the same when it comes time to service the car.You would be amazed how very different dealers are in their treatment of customers from one side of town to the other .
Jens

 

I assume you have a trained chipmunk for those Allen head bolts.

Seriously though, as I am sure your tool collection is far superior to mine; what tool/method do you find for those bolts. The main one I am referring to is the one just south of the oil cap. It is in such a prime position that there is no way to gain much motion or leverage.

I agree, for the most part it isn't a big deal. The way I look at it is still just a price to pay for more power. But even still with removing the blower it is easier than changing the plugs on my old Typhoon. Due to the location on the side of the head (pushrods) you had to get to them through the wheel well. Add the ATR 3 Inch downpipe and that had to be removed for a plug swap.

Prior to the blower I could change all of the plugs in 20 minutes. Now it may take an hour or less. With the Typhoon it was a two hour job.

 

I do assume they will adapt it to fit the J30A4 engine so my answers are as follows:

1) Yes, you have to remove the blower to change the plugs. See mine and Jen's response on the matter.

2) Affect dependability?? Well somewhat. You are putting more power through the drivetrain. But the levels are not that great that it should significantly hurt the car. For instance, if the car were to go 200k miles on the engine and transmission, you may have decreased that to 160k. But this does not affect other components such as windshield wipers, etc.

3) As Jens mentioned, talk to them. But IMO, do not expect them to cover a drivetrain issue if one arises. You are increasing power above the manufacturer’s ratings so an unlikely drivetrain component failure would be your responsibility.

 

well done steve and jens if you blow up the motor your on your own ????????????????????????

 

now the next question is
to remove the plugs you say "easy" I'm not doubting you but I know guys who say "oh this motor swap is easy" and it ends up being a week long getting yelled at sentence because they are pissed cause it isn't going like they hope. do you have a time estimate it would take.

2 other things
#1. what would my 1/4 time with the 03 v-6 AT and C/T S/C
#2. Will my transmission hold it(because if i get a S/C that's all i'm doing no NOS or anything else)because I remember you guys b!tching about the CL-S trannys nukeing about every 40-50 k.

 

Jens H has given you good advise.

 

Actually Scalbert I am thin as a rail so I can snake my arms in there with little trouble .For tools I use an Allen key with a ball fitting on the end so I can get the needed angle on it.I think mine are made by Matco .I keep several of each size on hand as they tend to snap off every now and so often .A plain old allen key will work well too but you have to be a skinny little bastard like me to get in there .
My time to pull the SC out of the engine with full load of coffee on board is about 30 minutes or so but please remember I do this for a living so I know where all the fasteners are and have a reasonably well stocked pile of tools to select from .
I will not comment on the trans longevity simply because I have no idea how the trannies respond to the SC long term .So rather than post BS I'll say the jury is out on that one .But my gut feeling is the trannies are not having issues with power but an issue with dirty fluid and a number of design flaws that needed to be corrected .
As far as ultimate performance at the track do a search here at this website and see if anybody has posted numbers .
Jens