umm.. no , should look like apple juice (maybe a little lighter) for new fluid

 

GOD DAMN IT, you beat me by a minute on posting

 

^thats how i do.lol

 

LOL yea guy I looked and thought OMFG... i feel so bad for my car.

I'm strapped for cash till friday so on friday I'll drive over to my buddys house and flush the system completely and put some dot 4 in there.

if damage was done my brakes wouldn't work 100% in 5-10 mins tho?

anyways... i'll see what that changes next weekend and i'll go from there.

All that crud is from me pushing in the calipers from all those times I did brake jobs prolly. ahh well.. hopefully it's just the fluid, but either way. I'm onto something.

lol look like someone took a dump in my brake fluid LOL

 

i called acura and they want 125 + tax to do a full brake fluid system flush and bleed the master cylinder and everything....

Sounds not too bad in my mind to fix this problem..orrr??

Cause brake fluid alone is already a lot and for me to get someone to bleed the system after will prolly cost me the same or more.?

 

fuck it............. i got an appointment at 2 today.. gonna put it on the company visa and pay it back.

I just don't want it to get any worse. brakes are #1 on the priority list.

 

holly shit my brake fluid is CLEAR!!!! i didnt know how bad the color was until now AHAHAH...

car brakes even better than it did when i was saying 100%...

a lil stiff for like 30sec to a min, and then wammo....

Definately good enough i think!.. amen

hopefully that's all she wrote.

 

you should try some braided stainless steel brakes lines, you be like (with yours eyes popping out from stopping), next time the fluid needs to be flushed

 

yea I think I just may do that... at the rate I drive I will B getting a system flush every 6 months.

 

normally they say every 30K or 3 years which ever comes first,

but yeah i just put some on brakelines on mt TL-S and it definetly improve it, but i still have to get a little slack/play out of the pedal , but when they first start applying to being fully applied is maybe only half a inch at the peadal,
also traction, vsa and the abs system seem less noticeable when they do engage cause the lines are not swelling, so the brakes respond faster for the systems (more precise application)

 

tru... well I don't do insane braking really. I just like having the brakes for the Just in Case scenario, and I HATE having to deal with warpage. which is why I got the DBA and EBC rotors. Couldn't be happier.

My mechanic drove my car after doing the brakes and said, "that's the best CL i've ever driven" so I'll assume my car's in good enough shape. asthetically and performance wise

 

car still has the same problem but now it fixes itself sooner than before. What a wild goose chase.

I pretty much have 2 things to look at right??? the booster and master cylinder?

there's no check valve or anything CHEAP I can replace before getting a new booster and or master cylinder?

 

when i did my rotors and pad combo i ended up dismantling my calipers and cleaning them correctly. there was rust inside of them that got into the lines.

i rebuilt the calipers, bled the lines, put new rotrs and pads and when for a drive with my buddy.

when we got back he claimed i had a parachute installed

glad ur problems are solved. but i would have the caliper inspected for rust

 

inspected for internal rust???

I think I'm just going live with this weird problem and consider it money I don't have to spend (yet)

I just can't help thinking WHAT IF they were to fail in the dire time of need.??

but the funny thing is, once the brakes work after they do their thing, it's like u said. SUPER braking,... beyond what is needed. Which is my style!

 

hot tubs eh? i'm going to keep you in mind once i move into the new place

 

we got 4 left from this year which are the ones on sale so if I were you I would come in and look at what's in store. starting from 4500 - 15000

 

umm... easier to just buy rebuilt (or new) calipers then rebuild them, then if they fail (within a reasonable time frame) you can just sue the rebuilder then (it's a CYA [cover your ass] thing)

also look right below the master cylinder on the booster (and inside) to see if there is a damp look (or paint peeling), cause when master cylinders go bad, they often seep in that area

 

naw see that's the thing everything is spotless, and no oild marks anywhere... anywhere. I checked and double checked... I'm gonna leave my car at the DLR so my buddy can test her out in the morning when everything is cold. that way he'll have to see wtf I'm talking about.

I am literally stumped on this one man, str8 up I'm out of ideas... feels really shitty too lol.. I'm not use to feeling useless... what a nice pun hehe

ah fuck, in time she'll be back to normal.

 

might even be a sticky check valve for the vacuum assist/booster

 

thanks but...where the heck is that located and what does it look like?

 

along the fire wall, and in the red circle (it is built into the hose though)

 

oHHH fuckkk reallly???? ay?
ok soo if by some chance my guy cannot solve this problem tomorrow then i will buy that piece from acura and do that as a last resort.

Thanks for taking that picture tho man, big thanx

 

LOL buddy drove my car and told me I am fucked, there is nothing wrong at all... HAHA

I dun't believe it.. so I ordered the stupid pipe with the valve in it... I have the weirdest feeling this may work..

Except it's on back order so it will b a month before I see my 42$ pipe. HAHA... better be worth it.

 

did not relise that pipe be that much

 

yea overpriced and understocked.... WTF you think it'd be one or the other.

but not the stealership

 

who then???

try a 03 TL-S factory fog light at like $200 and they are still real glass mounted nice and low so they get chiped/cracked real easy
and to compare it to something, i can get a brand new windshield INSTALLED (and it includes the glass) for that price by a reputable (spelling?) shop