Powdercoated Brake Calipers...
03-28-2004, 03:11 PM
#1
Suzuka Master
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Powdercoated Brake Calipers...
Well guys it was another mod. that I have been itching to accomplish... it is complete..
The before (bright RED)
The new (High Gloss BLACK)
I took the calipers off, disassembled them, scuffed them up with a wire brush and let them soak in a 5 gallon bucket of MEK (Methel Ethel Keytone)... extremely nasty shit!!!.. need a respirator, gloves and eye protection.. the shit cause brain damage and kidney failure from the fumes..so work in a well ventalated area.
Washed them with soap and water.
Then after sanding and using my dremel to get the rest of the PC off the calipers I shipped them to my good buddy Dave Fredericksen the master PC'er.
He reviewed my work and knew that i would not settle for anything less than perfect so he went ahead and did some sandblasting, masking and finally PC'ed the parts...
Cost:
MEK: 5 gallons X $11.99 =$60.00
Gloves: $6.00
BBQ brush: had a new one laying around
Respirator:.. have one.
Sandpaper: $3.00
Brake fluid: $20.00
New O-rings, pistons & dust boots... $85.00
Shipping both ways... $86.00
Getting your calipers done by a professional like Dave Frederickson----------------- PRICELESS...
Totol: $260.00
I would like to thank Dave for all his help.. it was a learning experience I will never forget..
And a thank you to Jens for helping me figure out that the master cylinder needed Bench bled because the system was open for about 4 weeks..
The before (bright RED)
The new (High Gloss BLACK)
I took the calipers off, disassembled them, scuffed them up with a wire brush and let them soak in a 5 gallon bucket of MEK (Methel Ethel Keytone)... extremely nasty shit!!!.. need a respirator, gloves and eye protection.. the shit cause brain damage and kidney failure from the fumes..so work in a well ventalated area.
Washed them with soap and water.
Then after sanding and using my dremel to get the rest of the PC off the calipers I shipped them to my good buddy Dave Fredericksen the master PC'er.
He reviewed my work and knew that i would not settle for anything less than perfect so he went ahead and did some sandblasting, masking and finally PC'ed the parts...
Cost:
MEK: 5 gallons X $11.99 =$60.00
Gloves: $6.00
BBQ brush: had a new one laying around
Respirator:.. have one.
Sandpaper: $3.00
Brake fluid: $20.00
New O-rings, pistons & dust boots... $85.00
Shipping both ways... $86.00
Getting your calipers done by a professional like Dave Frederickson----------------- PRICELESS...
Totol: $260.00
I would like to thank Dave for all his help.. it was a learning experience I will never forget..
And a thank you to Jens for helping me figure out that the master cylinder needed Bench bled because the system was open for about 4 weeks..
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03-28-2004, 07:45 PM
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Smitty: I'm a little miffed...at myself. Reference the photo where the blue oil filter is in view. I did not coat the open area at the back of the front, four piston calipers. I figured that this was a pad movement area, so I didn't want to build up any tolerance in that area.
If you want them to be reshot, I will do it, no question. This time, I will shed the paint (NOT FUN!).
Considering Smitty and I are 500 miles apart, and this took some incredible cooperation between the two of us (and Smitty did 99% of the work), this went pretty well, all things considered.
Carl,.. you're pretty cool!
If you want them to be reshot, I will do it, no question. This time, I will shed the paint (NOT FUN!).
Considering Smitty and I are 500 miles apart, and this took some incredible cooperation between the two of us (and Smitty did 99% of the work), this went pretty well, all things considered.
Carl,.. you're pretty cool!
03-28-2004, 07:53 PM
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Dave, you do amazing work. 
I think I might want to get my Racing Hart C2s black chromed.
Carl, you are no longer invited to PA/NJ meets. You make my car look sad.
I think I might want to get my Racing Hart C2s black chromed.Carl, you are no longer invited to PA/NJ meets. You make my car look sad.
03-28-2004, 07:58 PM
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NSXNEXT: If you are looking for the EXACT look of my Goodrich powder coated wheels, sorry to disappoint you, but no can do.
An approximate look can be provided, although.
17 inch diamater wheels is the most my cure oven can accomidate.
An approximate look can be provided, although.
17 inch diamater wheels is the most my cure oven can accomidate.
03-28-2004, 08:55 PM
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Originally posted by dfreder370
NSXNEXT: If you are looking for the EXACT look of my Goodrich powder coated wheels, sorry to disappoint you, but no can do.
An approximate look can be provided, although.
17 inch diamater wheels is the most my cure oven can accomidate.
NSXNEXT: If you are looking for the EXACT look of my Goodrich powder coated wheels, sorry to disappoint you, but no can do.
An approximate look can be provided, although.
17 inch diamater wheels is the most my cure oven can accomidate.
03-29-2004, 09:03 AM
#12
I now drive an accord....
Originally posted by dfreder370
17 inch diamater wheels is the most my cure oven can accomidate.
17 inch diamater wheels is the most my cure oven can accomidate.
03-29-2004, 12:25 PM
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Spdy: I know what you mean. UPS five day service (ground) for 110 pounds of wheels to California was $42. But when I needed them back pronto I had to use UPS next day air. $376!
03-29-2004, 12:30 PM
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Suzuka Master
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yeah the shipping was $40.90 to Dave.... and I paid for return shipping back to me.. $40.90...
All he had to do was slap the sticker on the box and drop it off..
Prepaid shipping is sweeeeeet.
worked out nice...
All he had to do was slap the sticker on the box and drop it off..
Prepaid shipping is sweeeeeet.
worked out nice...
03-29-2004, 08:59 PM
#16
I now drive an accord....
Originally posted by dfreder370
Spdy: I know what you mean. UPS five day service (ground) for 110 pounds of wheels to California was $42. But when I needed them back pronto I had to use UPS next day air. $376!
Spdy: I know what you mean. UPS five day service (ground) for 110 pounds of wheels to California was $42. But when I needed them back pronto I had to use UPS next day air. $376!
03-30-2004, 09:18 AM
#17
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Originally posted by dfreder370
Smitty parts were around 30 pounds, if I remember correctly. 2 day shipping, both ways. I think it was 27, actually.
Smitty parts were around 30 pounds, if I remember correctly. 2 day shipping, both ways. I think it was 27, actually.
$40.90 each way
03-30-2004, 09:19 AM
#18
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Originally posted by spdy0001
WOW only $42 I thought it would be much more than that. My garage should be done in about a month and then I will have a place to store my car while its with out wheels. I might get back in tought with you about this
WOW only $42 I thought it would be much more than that. My garage should be done in about a month and then I will have a place to store my car while its with out wheels. I might get back in tought with you about this
03-30-2004, 04:09 PM
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SC TL: No, they won't. This was an "apply the powder coating to a heated casting" because castings have a big tendency to out gas. Gasses trapped in the casting can excape during the curing process, leaving flawed paint. By heating before hand it lets the gasses out.
The normal, applied to cold metal goes like this.
Ground part (-), charge powder (+) with 100,000 volts.
Put into a 425 F oven, 400F wanted.
Powder heats to Tg (glass transition temperature, where it melts.)
Powder flows out and levels.
Powder chemically crosslinks, and:
If enough time and temp are involved, the powder will cure.
Don't worry about that 100,000 volts. The amperage is positively puny, but I have gotten a pretty good zap here and there.
What is REALLY important is to have the part to be painted grounded, because if you don't it goes to the next best ground which is usually me!
I just completed a HUGH IMPACT to the company project where we painted castings, mimimum 200 pounds assembled and about 30" tall, up to 7 foot tall and 1,500 pounds. They had to be done on wooden skids from the start of assembly for shipping purposes. Wood=not a good ground. The powder coating was a metalflake silver. I can't tell you the number of times I looked like the tinman from the Wizzard of Oz until I figured out how important the grounding was.
But, I am getting off track regarding your question. Yes, there is potentionally a lot of heat generated in this area. And if Smitty ever does get them above 400 F it will just cure the powder more.
Because this stuff is crosslinked (chemically locked bonds), it isn't going anywhere and it is impossible to remelt.
This was not an experimental project. There are plenty of porsches, corvettes, and even the new TL has powder coated calipers. It is also a very high turbulance area, with the wheel spokes and all, so, I am not worried, lots of cooling around there.
Smitty: Next winter, send me your brake pads and I will paint them the same matching black. That red kinda clashes. I won't even have to bother to do any masking. The rotors will take the paint off the face of the pads pronto, but you might not like the smell for the first few stops.
disc brake pads and drum shoes are painted with a clear powder coating when you buy them to prevent corrosion.
Corrosion in any part in a brake system=mighty bad.
The powder should be good up to about 650-675 F, and because Smitty chose black, no color changing issues will happen.
Now if your dream caliper is snow white, Uh-oh. Extreme heat on these will tend to go to off white to slightly yellow.
The normal, applied to cold metal goes like this.
Ground part (-), charge powder (+) with 100,000 volts.
Put into a 425 F oven, 400F wanted.
Powder heats to Tg (glass transition temperature, where it melts.)
Powder flows out and levels.
Powder chemically crosslinks, and:
If enough time and temp are involved, the powder will cure.
Don't worry about that 100,000 volts. The amperage is positively puny, but I have gotten a pretty good zap here and there.
What is REALLY important is to have the part to be painted grounded, because if you don't it goes to the next best ground which is usually me!
I just completed a HUGH IMPACT to the company project where we painted castings, mimimum 200 pounds assembled and about 30" tall, up to 7 foot tall and 1,500 pounds. They had to be done on wooden skids from the start of assembly for shipping purposes. Wood=not a good ground. The powder coating was a metalflake silver. I can't tell you the number of times I looked like the tinman from the Wizzard of Oz until I figured out how important the grounding was.
But, I am getting off track regarding your question. Yes, there is potentionally a lot of heat generated in this area. And if Smitty ever does get them above 400 F it will just cure the powder more.
Because this stuff is crosslinked (chemically locked bonds), it isn't going anywhere and it is impossible to remelt.
This was not an experimental project. There are plenty of porsches, corvettes, and even the new TL has powder coated calipers. It is also a very high turbulance area, with the wheel spokes and all, so, I am not worried, lots of cooling around there.
Smitty: Next winter, send me your brake pads and I will paint them the same matching black. That red kinda clashes. I won't even have to bother to do any masking. The rotors will take the paint off the face of the pads pronto, but you might not like the smell for the first few stops.
disc brake pads and drum shoes are painted with a clear powder coating when you buy them to prevent corrosion.
Corrosion in any part in a brake system=mighty bad.
The powder should be good up to about 650-675 F, and because Smitty chose black, no color changing issues will happen.
Now if your dream caliper is snow white, Uh-oh. Extreme heat on these will tend to go to off white to slightly yellow.
03-30-2004, 06:10 PM
#21
GEEZER
Originally posted by dfreder370
SC TL: No, they won't. This was an "apply the powder coating to a heated casting" because castings have a big tendency to out gas. Gasses trapped in the casting can excape during the curing process, leaving flawed paint. By heating before hand it lets the gasses out.
The normal, applied to cold metal goes like this.
Ground part (-), charge powder (+) with 100,000 volts.
Put into a 425 F oven, 400F wanted.
Powder heats to Tg (glass transition temperature, where it melts.)
Powder flows out and levels.
Powder chemically crosslinks, and:
If enough time and temp are involved, the powder will cure.
Don't worry about that 100,000 volts. The amperage is positively puny, but I have gotten a pretty good zap here and there.
What is REALLY important is to have the part to be painted grounded, because if you don't it goes to the next best ground which is usually me!
I just completed a HUGH IMPACT to the company project where we painted castings, mimimum 200 pounds assembled and about 30" tall, up to 7 foot tall and 1,500 pounds. They had to be done on wooden skids from the start of assembly for shipping purposes. Wood=not a good ground. The powder coating was a metalflake silver. I can't tell you the number of times I looked like the tinman from the Wizzard of Oz until I figured out how important the grounding was.
But, I am getting off track regarding your question. Yes, there is potentionally a lot of heat generated in this area. And if Smitty ever does get them above 400 F it will just cure the powder more.
Because this stuff is crosslinked (chemically locked bonds), it isn't going anywhere and it is impossible to remelt.
This was not an experimental project. There are plenty of porsches, corvettes, and even the new TL has powder coated calipers. It is also a very high turbulance area, with the wheel spokes and all, so, I am not worried, lots of cooling around there.
Smitty: Next winter, send me your brake pads and I will paint them the same matching black. That red kinda clashes. I won't even have to bother to do any masking. The rotors will take the paint off the face of the pads pronto, but you might not like the smell for the first few stops.
disc brake pads and drum shoes are painted with a clear powder coating when you buy them to prevent corrosion.
Corrosion in any part in a brake system=mighty bad.
The powder should be good up to about 650-675 F, and because Smitty chose black, no color changing issues will happen.
Now if your dream caliper is snow white, Uh-oh. Extreme heat on these will tend to go to off white to slightly yellow.
SC TL: No, they won't. This was an "apply the powder coating to a heated casting" because castings have a big tendency to out gas. Gasses trapped in the casting can excape during the curing process, leaving flawed paint. By heating before hand it lets the gasses out.
The normal, applied to cold metal goes like this.
Ground part (-), charge powder (+) with 100,000 volts.
Put into a 425 F oven, 400F wanted.
Powder heats to Tg (glass transition temperature, where it melts.)
Powder flows out and levels.
Powder chemically crosslinks, and:
If enough time and temp are involved, the powder will cure.
Don't worry about that 100,000 volts. The amperage is positively puny, but I have gotten a pretty good zap here and there.
What is REALLY important is to have the part to be painted grounded, because if you don't it goes to the next best ground which is usually me!
I just completed a HUGH IMPACT to the company project where we painted castings, mimimum 200 pounds assembled and about 30" tall, up to 7 foot tall and 1,500 pounds. They had to be done on wooden skids from the start of assembly for shipping purposes. Wood=not a good ground. The powder coating was a metalflake silver. I can't tell you the number of times I looked like the tinman from the Wizzard of Oz until I figured out how important the grounding was.
But, I am getting off track regarding your question. Yes, there is potentionally a lot of heat generated in this area. And if Smitty ever does get them above 400 F it will just cure the powder more.
Because this stuff is crosslinked (chemically locked bonds), it isn't going anywhere and it is impossible to remelt.
This was not an experimental project. There are plenty of porsches, corvettes, and even the new TL has powder coated calipers. It is also a very high turbulance area, with the wheel spokes and all, so, I am not worried, lots of cooling around there.
Smitty: Next winter, send me your brake pads and I will paint them the same matching black. That red kinda clashes. I won't even have to bother to do any masking. The rotors will take the paint off the face of the pads pronto, but you might not like the smell for the first few stops.
disc brake pads and drum shoes are painted with a clear powder coating when you buy them to prevent corrosion.
Corrosion in any part in a brake system=mighty bad.
The powder should be good up to about 650-675 F, and because Smitty chose black, no color changing issues will happen.
Now if your dream caliper is snow white, Uh-oh. Extreme heat on these will tend to go to off white to slightly yellow.
03-30-2004, 06:37 PM
#22
TQ > MPG
I am always impressed with your knowledge dfreder, you're a credit to this forum. 
How far from Detroit are you? I'd maybe like to do my calipers eventually, and possibly wheels depending on price (stock 17's).
How far from Detroit are you? I'd maybe like to do my calipers eventually, and possibly wheels depending on price (stock 17's).
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