A-Pillar Pod Install & Pics :D
03-27-2004, 05:28 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
A-Pillar Pod Install & Pics :D
Enjoy!!
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gun...&.dnm=3fd6.jpg
It's not the greatest install... because these don't have the clips and you have to drill into the A-pillar - plus the screws they give are too short!
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gun...&.dnm=3fd6.jpg
It's not the greatest install... because these don't have the clips and you have to drill into the A-pillar - plus the screws they give are too short!
03-27-2004, 05:31 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
so how long until they are useful?
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03-28-2004, 10:33 AM
#15
Re: A-Pillar Pod Install & Pics :D
Originally posted by allmotor_2000
Enjoy!!
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gun...&.dnm=3fd6.jpg
It's not the greatest install... because these don't have the clips and you have to drill into the A-pillar - plus the screws they give are too short!
Enjoy!!
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/gun...&.dnm=3fd6.jpg
It's not the greatest install... because these don't have the clips and you have to drill into the A-pillar - plus the screws they give are too short!
03-28-2004, 02:07 PM
#17
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Re: Re: A-Pillar Pod Install & Pics :D
Originally posted by Essarak Huot
Hey I'm wondering if the gauge pillar match the oem interior? I just got mine in and it doesen't look like it matches
Hey I'm wondering if the gauge pillar match the oem interior? I just got mine in and it doesen't look like it matches
03-28-2004, 03:28 PM
#21
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Installation made easy:...
I recommend 2 things:... Make sure you drill the holes STRAIGHT, if the flat head screw (you will need to purchase since the ones they give you are too short like Allmotor said) does not go flush with the pre-drilled pod hole then the end cap that you place over the screw will look retarded and cocked.
Take all sticker off the base of the gauges with goo gone because the pods are a tight fit... I used some hand soap on the base of the gauges so they installed alot easier...
P.S. Make sure you put them in straight after you install the pod and it is secured to the A-pillar.. you get 1 shot at it or you got to take the pod off the A=pillar and push the gauges out from the back to get them out...
I recommend 2 things:... Make sure you drill the holes STRAIGHT, if the flat head screw (you will need to purchase since the ones they give you are too short like Allmotor said) does not go flush with the pre-drilled pod hole then the end cap that you place over the screw will look retarded and cocked.
Take all sticker off the base of the gauges with goo gone because the pods are a tight fit... I used some hand soap on the base of the gauges so they installed alot easier...
P.S. Make sure you put them in straight after you install the pod and it is secured to the A-pillar.. you get 1 shot at it or you got to take the pod off the A=pillar and push the gauges out from the back to get them out...
03-28-2004, 03:30 PM
#22
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P.S.S. I took the tint off the lower part of the winshield for those of you who did not notice in the pictures above...
looks alot better without it... thanks for the advise fellas..
looks alot better without it... thanks for the advise fellas..
03-28-2004, 05:06 PM
#25
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Smitty
P.S.S. I took the tint off the lower part of the winshield for those of you who did not notice in the pictures above...
looks alot better without it... thanks for the advise fellas..
P.S.S. I took the tint off the lower part of the winshield for those of you who did not notice in the pictures above...
looks alot better without it... thanks for the advise fellas..
03-28-2004, 08:46 PM
#27
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Originally posted by allmotor_2000
For the electronic boost guage, where did you get power from? It needs switched power that stays on during cranking - I found one spot, but for some reason appears intermittent?!?
For the electronic boost guage, where did you get power from? It needs switched power that stays on during cranking - I found one spot, but for some reason appears intermittent?!?
03-28-2004, 08:52 PM
#28
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Smitty
Hmm let me think... I can not quite remember if it was fuse #11, I will look when I get my shock sensors in Monday or Tuesday and report back.
Hmm let me think... I can not quite remember if it was fuse #11, I will look when I get my shock sensors in Monday or Tuesday and report back.
03-28-2004, 08:53 PM
#29
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Originally posted by allmotor_2000
What do you mean fuse? You wrap wire to the fuse!?! I have it to a +12V source that doesn't turn off during cranking, but the damn thing is very intermittent and doesn't turn on sometimes!
What do you mean fuse? You wrap wire to the fuse!?! I have it to a +12V source that doesn't turn off during cranking, but the damn thing is very intermittent and doesn't turn on sometimes!
03-30-2004, 02:49 PM
#32
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Originally posted by allmotor_2000
What do you mean fuse? You wrap wire to the fuse!?! I have it to a +12V source that doesn't turn off during cranking, but the damn thing is very intermittent and doesn't turn on sometimes!
What do you mean fuse? You wrap wire to the fuse!?! I have it to a +12V source that doesn't turn off during cranking, but the damn thing is very intermittent and doesn't turn on sometimes!
The lighting power, which I never did get around to doing, would allow the gauge lights to turn on and off, and dim with, the rest of the gauges on the dash. This is where I got the info for that from. Note that the red/black Jens refers to, Smitty actually found to be red with gray dots.
Jens H. wrote on 08-06-2003 12:06 PM:
….., if you want to connect your autometer gauges it is easy .For ease of access you can use any switch such as the moonroof VSA or foglamp switch .Remove the switch and you will see that each has a red/black wire in it this will be the power source for your light in each gauge ,then locate the red wire ,this will be the ground source for your lighting .Connecting it this way will allow you to use the dimmer circuit on your gauges .I do not think this will cause any problems for the dimmer circuit but I cannot guarantee this .So you will be in somewhat uncharted water on this .The dimmer is actually a small computer that controls the ground side of the lighting circuit.The rheostat is only a control for this small computer.
Please make certain all of your connections are well insulated to avoid any problems .Attach one gauge at a time to this ciurcuit and verify that everything else on the lighting circuit is still working normally as I do not know how many liughts can be added to thiss circuit safely but I think yu should be ok.
RED/BLACK is power source
RED is ground
Please remember this is for LIGHTING only it is not a valid ground for anything else .
Jens
….., if you want to connect your autometer gauges it is easy .For ease of access you can use any switch such as the moonroof VSA or foglamp switch .Remove the switch and you will see that each has a red/black wire in it this will be the power source for your light in each gauge ,then locate the red wire ,this will be the ground source for your lighting .Connecting it this way will allow you to use the dimmer circuit on your gauges .I do not think this will cause any problems for the dimmer circuit but I cannot guarantee this .So you will be in somewhat uncharted water on this .The dimmer is actually a small computer that controls the ground side of the lighting circuit.The rheostat is only a control for this small computer.
Please make certain all of your connections are well insulated to avoid any problems .Attach one gauge at a time to this ciurcuit and verify that everything else on the lighting circuit is still working normally as I do not know how many liughts can be added to thiss circuit safely but I think yu should be ok.
RED/BLACK is power source
RED is ground
Please remember this is for LIGHTING only it is not a valid ground for anything else .
Jens
.. thanks Brad.. I knew I could count on you..
03-30-2004, 03:12 PM
#35
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Originally posted by trancegemini19
what size screws to you buy to replace the short ones lotek gave us?
what size screws to you buy to replace the short ones lotek gave us?
Only need 2 so get the 1-1/2 to be on the safe side just incase... I am sure everyone is going to have different fitment issues arise.
03-30-2004, 04:50 PM
#36
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I got it working... basically it needed a beefier voltage source - I had it hooked up to a pretty wimpy one I suppose.
Looks fine... works fine
Thanks!
Looks fine... works fine
Thanks!
03-30-2004, 06:54 PM
#38
Sweet as Gold
Originally posted by allmotor_2000
I got it working... basically it needed a beefier voltage source - I had it hooked up to a pretty wimpy one I suppose.
Looks fine... works fine
Thanks!
I got it working... basically it needed a beefier voltage source - I had it hooked up to a pretty wimpy one I suppose.
Looks fine... works fine
Thanks!
03-30-2004, 08:58 PM
#39
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Ant7701
Yo...I can't remember...what size guages do I use for this pod...I got mine yesturday. I think they are 2 1/16 but not sure. Also I plan on buying a coolant temp guage but not sure what other guage to buy. I have I/H/E/P/chip as my mods and want another semi-useful guage...any ideas on what to fill it with???
Yo...I can't remember...what size guages do I use for this pod...I got mine yesturday. I think they are 2 1/16 but not sure. Also I plan on buying a coolant temp guage but not sure what other guage to buy. I have I/H/E/P/chip as my mods and want another semi-useful guage...any ideas on what to fill it with???
With your mods (assuming you are tuning your car on a dyno with an A/F meter), useful guages will be fuel pressure. There really arn't too many guages useful on an NA car!
03-31-2004, 07:47 AM
#40
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Originally posted by allmotor_2000
There really arn't too many guages useful on an NA car!
There really arn't too many guages useful on an NA car!